WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover, 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V

I've incorporated the 12V fuse block into my custom power bank to provide a 12V source from my 24V system, and it works great. The fuse block's design is user-friendly, making the installation process straightforward. The LED warning indicators are a fantastic feature, offering a quick visual check for any issues with the circuits.One aspect I particularly appreciate is the waterproof and damp proof cover. It adds an extra layer of protection, ensuring that the fuse block remains functional even in less than ideal conditions. The six circuits with a negative bus offer ample flexibility for various connections, making it a versatile addition to my setup. The only minor drawback I've noticed is that the cover can be a bit tricky to snap on and off, but it's a small inconvenience considering the overall performance and protection it provides.This 12 Volt fuse block is a reliable and efficient solution for power distribution in my custom power bank. It delivers excellent performance and peace of mind with its sturdy construction and helpful LED indicators. If you need a dependable fuse block for your car, marine, RV, or truck, this one is definitely worth considering.

I have purchased this fuse box several times now. I use it for my solar generator builds. This is a small heavy duty fuse box that works well attaching wires for 12 volt system. I generally use it to attach 5 volt fans, sockets and USB ports. This is a high quality item for a good price. No issues noted so far.

Worked very well for my application. Installing lights on my Gator was a breeze using the fuse block to provide safe fused circuits.

I bought this despite Amazon telling us it is a frequently returned item. I liked the design, and wanted to know more but could not find enough info in the description. Here is how this thing works.You provide a continuous Bat+ feed, and you CAN provide a switched connection. The switched post is common to every relay, the left side of those green screw connectors is hot from the ACC post. Each green screw post is a pair, the one on the right when provided 12v + will switch the relay, regardless of the use of the ACC post. IOW if you don't use the ACC post you can still active each relay.Most cars have switches for say, headlights, that switch the 12v + feed, so if that is how you plan to use it then you can do so and this product needs only the switched wire to work, then you connect the high amp wire to the appropriate fuse and you're done. If you have an accessory you want to switch on with the ignition, then use the ACC post from the ignition, it feeds a post that you can just jump to the right side screw-in terminal and the accessory will come on with the ignition using a relay (connect the accessory to the appropriate fuse). You can do both, activate a relay with your accessory's switch for some relays, and active accessories with the key.The LED indicating if the fuse is good works regardless of how the ACC post is used.What you cannot do is something that I do on my classic Citroën, and that is to provide ground to the relay solenoid separate from all other relays. I do this because the starter solenoid is on a relay (starter solenoids draw as much as 30 amps, so I need to keep that away from my 50+ y/o ignition switch). The relay works fine, but I have it triggered by a switch on the console, and I want to disable the switch when the engine is running. So I get ground to the relay via the alternator voltage regulator. When the engine isn't turning the VR provides ground, but as soon as it starts producing power that line goes positive (that's how it turns off the battery light). Thus the relay can't work and the starter is safe from unintentional activation.Okay, that's not a huge deal, but what is for me that the total lack of documentation about 1. how this thing works (I had to hook it up and try things to ensure I understood how it works), 2. zero documentation on the load max for each relay. I suspect it's 20 amps, but it's not documented. There are six relays on the board, 4 pin relays only (I have one setup that could use a 5 pin but not actually needed with this product). These are micro relays, similar to what I already use in the car. But they are enclosed in a housing that is not ventilated. The description states this thing can handle 80 amps, but 80/6 would be justs 13.3 amps per relay, so perhaps they are rated to 15 amps max? Without clear documentation it is a guessing game, and I dislike guessing with electrical equipment.The cover comes off easily if you can press in the releases. That's not easy from over the cover, but if the thing is in my hand and I press the releases from the bottom it comes off easily. So this needs a redesign to turn the releases around.It came with a lot of fuses BTW, so I'd think you could put it in place with the fuses provided. The build quality is quite good, it's not light for what it is, I would think it will last a long time. I like the fuse LED indicators, but that's not unique to this product. It's fairly compact. I can't say that I'm a fan of the screw-in terminals for the switching wires. If there was a cable retaining strap for them I'd be happier, but I'm concerned that the wire can come out and short to ground when you activate the switch, which is not something you want to happen. Without a cable retention mechanism I'd prefer a screw I can either wrap the wire around, or use a small ring terminal on the wire. I have not determined if I'll use this product on my car.Edit: I decided to use this in my car and it’s working as expected. The relays are rated at 20 amps (I took it apart to find this out). Build quality is quite good. I don’t find the cover difficult to remove now that it’s mounted. It replaced 4 relays and a six fuse block, the wiring is far cleaner than before since I don’t need independent ground and Bat + wires to each relay. The fuse labels are marine centric, I used my Brother label maker to make new labels. I did not tin the trigger wires, the clamp is a nice long flat bar and I think that gets a better clamp than if I had a soldered end, and solder can cause work hardening failure where the solder ends. I’d still like to have a strain relief, I think one could be made to clamp down using the Bat + posts to hold it, so I’ll,be looking at making one from plastic.

I rewired my sons 1992 Glastron Carlson CSS 16 speedboat, I replaced all the switches and gauges and installed the fuse box under the dash, so far everything works and no blown fuses.Easy to wire, everything has its own fuse and all in one place. I did add a total power kill switch in the back of the boat.

Fantastic product, hooked up 6 sets of lights on my jeep, neat,clean look

A very good terminal block/connection method for providing power to 6 users. A super design and all parts appear to be of top quality and everything is included for easy installation. Makes installations very easy. I really like the way the designers put thought into it.

Great item