Stainless Steel 304 Door Lockers Doorknobs Ring Doors Pulls Furniture Corridor Hidden Recessed Install Cup Door Lock Privacy Sliding Door Latch Locks Pack of 1

The media could not be loaded. I was sick and tired of hitting my arm on the door knob of the hall closet in our new house every time I exited the bathroom. So I went looking for a low profile knob and found this.PERFECTIONThe plates are a little larger than standard door knobs and don’t have rounded edges either so I had to chisel a bit of the door and frame to make the sit flush but it was SO WORTH IT!

Nice, clean design, minimal and flush, as I needed it to be. Do note, there are no instructions, and you have to realize that two long screws are designed to be trimmed. They have unthreaded areas where you can trim them. Then they fit very well. I was going to send it back at first, until I figured this out.

Really nice door latch. I have a small house and I find myself bumping into or catching my arm on door knobs sticking out . This latch only sticks out a little more than 1/2 inch instead of 2 and a half inches.Very well made. I installed on a 1 1/2 inch door that had a Kwikset door lock and had to make a few modifications to get it to fit . Once installed it works perfectly. I am a retired lock smith so it was not to hard to see what needed to be done to make it work. There are other reviews here that go into the details.

This looked like exactly what I needed to replace my standard door handles for a low profile handle to allow for better clearance.It LOOKED like that.It isn't.By a long shot (or maybe by an infuriatingly short amount)In order to fit snugly to a 1 3/8 inch door the spindle must measure in at 50.5 mm. The spindle that is provided measures 60mm.Which means frustratingly close adjustments with a very good Dremel tool to trim away the extra 1/4 inch to get it to fit the door.(Oh, by the way Amazon does not provide any 50.5mm spindles for replacement that I could find.)The latch is also too wide for pre drilled doors, which means that you will need to figure out some way to expand the hole by another 1/4 of an inch without chewing up the door, and you will need to fill in the screw holes that held in the previous latch, because those holes are off by another 1/8" each (naturally).And you will need to chisel out the seating hole in the door to accommodate a flush mounted latch, because it is too big as well (again off by 1/4").Apparently measurements aren't as big of a deal in China or Chinese specs for building materials is just slightly off from US Standards.So if you want to spend an ENTIRE day doing what should be a 20-minute job, by all means, go for it.I certainly wouldn't recommend it, though.

This was a complicated process for me, but I was pleased with the results. I have a narrow bathroom door, so the regular doorknob was a threat to everyone’s hip bones! I can’t believe there are so few options for a low profile doorknob. I had to order from overseas and wait weeks for delivery. From the other reviews, I knew I was going to have to get creative installing it in a door that already had another unit installed.Instead of looking for long Chicago screws, I basically tried to fill in the missing wood. Using a hole saw and a drill, I made a round plug of wood from a board that was very near the width of the door. Then used a dremmel and a grinder to make two pieces that fit above and below the new mechanism. I glued the wood pieces in place with liquid nails adhesive and stuffed a rag in the hole to keep them in place so it could dry overnight. Note that this does not have to look pretty because it will be completely covered by the new doorknobs. I was working with small pieces of wood, and moderately large screws, so splitting the wood was a problem with having to do this modification. One of the wood pieces cracked down the middle, so I replaced it with some plastic trim that is designed to look like wood. The lesson you need to take away is this: Predrill everything!Other problems I encountered: This comes with two different axels to put between the doorknobs. The smaller of the two was still a little too long, so I had to make a wooden one to measure what length was going to work. Then I cut the metal one down to size with a band saw, and then carefully grind it down to the exact size needed. Another issue was that the new mechanism was larger than the one being replaced, so there was drilling and dremmeling to make the hole in the side of the door bigger. I also had to drill just a fraction of an inch deeper into the door because the new mechanism was just slightly longer. I did get lucky that the doorknob axel hole was in the same spot as before, so the new doorknobs are almost exactly in the same position as the old ones. I also had to use an oscillating tool with a saw blade to countersink the new rectangular plate into the side of the door. Glue wooden toothpicks into the old screw holes so you can drill new holes where you need them. I did once again get lucky by being able to use the old strike plate in the door frame. I didn’t have to swap out that metal piece, or drill out a bigger hole in the door frame. Make sure to vacuum all the sawdust so your new mechanism doesn’t get clogged. They do rattle a little bit, but they seem to be rugged enough to hold up.So in the end I’m glad to have low profile doorknobs for the narrow doorway. They do not lock from either direction, but that’s ok for now. I thought about using the original doorknob on the inside, and just replacing the outside doorknob (which was the one causing the problem in the tight space) but that would have been a bigger headache because the screw holes on the old doorknob didn’t quite line up with the holes on the new ones. Installation would have been very much easier if those holes had lined up.If I had to do it again, I would probably try to just use a couple of wooden blocks with holes drilled for the doorknob screws on each side.

Package is missing Chicago bolts shown in description. Door knob is okay. Install isn’t terrible if you have the tools.