PYLE-PRO 8 Outlet Strips Electric Rack Mount PDU Unit w/ Digital Display and Surge Protection, 1U/15A/120V Aluminum Alloy Power, Covered w/ ON/OFF Switch, Wide Usage & Built-In Circuit Breaker

First time with rackmount power, and it's a good choice. It fits as advertised in my Echogear rack.

I have no problem with this product, I just didn't realize it would not fit in an audio gear style 19 inch rack case--the rack ears have a lip which makes it impossible to screw it into the rack and make the surfaces flush with each other. I managed to mount it in my Gator travel case and get it all closed up tight, but it is a bit wonky in the rack. I think these might be meant for IT 19inch rack cases.

I purchased this with the intent of having AC control that would allow me to switch some of the equipment in one of the racks of my performing rig. Looked at the price, looked at the features in the ad, and dropped the plastic on it.It's several months later and time to implement this power conditioner...which turns out NOT to be that. Opening the case, one doesn't see ANYTHING resembling protection circuitry or even just a few MOVs. And the metering must be one of those BYOMultimeter deals, because the only "digital" thing you'll be getting out of this thing is going to be the ON and OFF of the outlet switches....or perhaps NOT. See, Pyle's design engineers decided that the correct AC leg to switch (besides doing the more typical dual-throw switch implementation found on other similar devices) is the NEUTRAL.I shouldn't have to explain what you'd be facing if you'd assumed that those switches were CORRECTLY WIRED...which they sure as hell ARE NOT. So if you have the case open to work on something and, for some reason, you've got this "Professional" device still plugged in...well, you're just one screwdriver slip away from INJURY OR DEATH as the "hot" AC leg is still very much live! And since it's still live, anything you have plugged into this will ALSO be live...which actually negates the point of having the switches in the first place!!!Ooooooo, but we're not done there...First up, the rack ears. Or maybe that should be the "rack ear-like appendages". See, when most people see rack mounting points on a front panel, they figure that you mount that unit directly into a rack. Pyle, however, seems to think that rack ears are a "cosmetic" item...because these are. You CAN use them, but you'll have to put something of the proper size behind these ears because they're made of some cheap, flimsy sheet metal that actually doesn't contact the rack rails!!! It's bent in a "U"-like shape where the edges on the top and bottom bends are the only things that contact the rails! And if you screw the ears down like you and I and everyone else is used to, it will bend the crap out of the front panel strictly from the act of tightening the rack screws properly.But I saved the best for last...A single unit of rack space is 1.75 inches. There's really no useful metric equivalent, and the 19" rack standard is accepted worldwide. As long as your device fits into a 1.75" (or multiples of that) space, you're golden.Pyle seems to think otherwise, however. This device DOES NOT FIT in a proper 19" rack space, despite its appearance. It actually exceeds that height due to protruding mounting hardware and the simple fact that the chassis itself is around 1/8" too tall already. And yes, I checked that figure... because it seemed so utterly preposterous that a company would make a rackmountable device that...isn't ACTUALLY rackmountable!?Part of why I got this, also, was part of some YouTube content I've been planning about how to make a workable and inexpensive basic studio rig. Money is a real stumbling-block for beginning musicians, and I thought this might be a useable device ACCORDING TO THE LISTING.Well, now you know how that turned out. I wouldn't recommend this unit to anyone for any reason ever, period. It actually constitutes a VERY significant electrical hazard to both the user and any equipment tied into it...yes, even if the only common connection is grounding via the rack rails. It's unacceptable, and at this point I'm considering contacting the Consumer Products Safety Commission regarding getting this pulled from the market. Or maybe I should just dip up to UL's lab in the north Chi burbs with this...should be good for some nervous laughter out of 'em before they yank these and probably other similarly-flawed Pyle products off the shelves. Seriously, don't buy these. Not for any reason.

Best value I could find for a 1U surge protector. I found that in order to make this flush with my rack, I had to install the screws on the outside rather than on the inside. I barely notice it. Other than that, the unit works great. I like how I can switch off outlets I am not using.

First, the one I just received is metal not plastic, I checked it with a magnet, it's thin but still metal. I wouldn't put a non metal powered chassis in an audio rack in the first place. That's asking for trouble. Second, mine has lights on all eight selector switches, not sure if they're neon or LED but it has them. Yes I will agree if you crank down on the mount screws you will bend and warp the mounting flanges. They are thin metal bent over to form a "U" shaped flange with no support directly under the screw bosses. However, the whole unit weighs a couple pounds so no need to play Conan on the screws, snug is good. It fit my rack with no problem. I mounted mine on the rear rack bars because I'm using this to power several little items that are hidden inside the cabinet such as my Bose equalizer and a couple wall warts for Toslink converters and a small video display I use to program my NAD receiver. The power cable came with it but no mounting hardware but I have dozens of screws so no biggie. A couple pair of spacers to put under the screw bosses to provide better support would be nice and I'll probably cut some from nylon or hard rubber myself to add later. It replaces a power strip I had Velcro'd inside the cabinet and this looks much nicer. Of course no one can see it but I feel better knowing it's there! The manual? Its a single page and has enough info in the little cartoon that should be sufficient for most people except those who take offense at the poor descriptions included. By now we should all be accustomed to a little chinglish now and then. And I got mine for around $25 bucks and free shipping and it came in 3 days.

Mine is made of metal and seems durable enough. Especially for the price. I needed a simple power center to control various devices in my studio, and this one worked great. I like the lighted switches, and also that there is a 3/8" space above and below each switch which gave me enough space to attach a label from my little label machine.I didn't rack mount mine, but for those who are considering it: The overall width of the unit is 19-1/8" and it's 2" tall. The distance between the center of the oblong mounting holes is 18-1/4" wide and 1-1/8" tall.If you are going to set this on a counter or have it rack mounted with another device right below it, you will need some of those 1' extension cords to plug in your power bricks which will not fit. They will hit the counter or the device below it. However, this is an issue with all units of this type.I like this unit and would recommend it.

I'm disappointed with the construction and design of this product. The product is very lightweight, but not in a good way. It is built of very thin sheet metal that is flimsy. The rack ears do not sit flat against the rack. If you torque the rack screws too much, the flimsy sheet metal distorts. The electronics portion works as expected. The switches respond as expected and turn on and off the individual outlets. I'm using this in a network test lab, so it is acceptable due to the low price. However, I do not suggest this be used in any type of professional environment.