MG Chemicals841AR Nickel Super Shield Conductive Paint, 55 mL Bottle

I am heavily into DIY electronic projects, most of which involve high gain, high impedance amplifier circuits that will buzz just by having a 1" section of input lead exposed. SO, I really need shielding, like really really. I designed a small array of universal boxes for breadboards and my various projects, and I 3d print them as needed, using mainly ESun ABS+ but also the occasional straight ABS or PETG. This stuff sticks fine to all of my plastics, and the little 150ml can goes a surprisingly long way. One thing - I noticed halfway through the can that the bottom had a deep sludge in it, about 1/2" to 3/4" thick, that was coagulated material. Reading another review here, I saw that he had used acetone as a thinner, and I decided to go for it and add some to try to stretch the can out by getting that sludge back into service. It worked *perfectly*. Pleased with the results but thinking I could benefit from making the paint even more thin, I added more acetone until the paint was very water-like, but still strongly silvery. I *really* like it like this. It flows beautifully and it's much easier to coat a surface before it's sludging up from drying, and it still dries super fast because, of course, acetone. If a spot looks too thin, like I can make out the underlying material, I just dip the tip of my brush in and swipe the area. Before I thinned it like this, my work would come out looking smeary, a bit like stucco. Now it looks much more pro, much more even and smooth. Clipping a meter (BK Precision 2405A) lead to one side of the last project box I did (for small breadboards, box is about 6"L x 3"W x 2"H) and probing around with the other lead, I get an almost perfectly consistent 4.8 ohms, and that's with a single coat all the way around the inside.I can't say enough about this stuff. I used to get the aerosol spray version but had lots of problems with it clogging up on me. Got a can of this thinking I might hate it, but oh **** no. I love it, and I'll never go back. Properly thinned, it's a dream to use, wastes next to nothing but a single brush and maybe one spilled drop, and it isn't flying around in the air. I can do a dozen boxes (and lids for them) easily on one can. Yes, its expensive, but it works GREAT, even for superhigh gain, superhigh impedance circuits like my LMC6081 op-amp projects. Truly wonderful stuff and if they ever stop making it, I'll be really lost.Thanks MG Chemicals! :-)Rick NR417

Just installed solderless EMG electronics in my Jackson. Had to carve out some body cavity for the pickup selector switch to fit and needless to say, didn't want raw wood exposed. Did a few coats there and some touch ups around the cavities with standard cheap paint brush. Dries very quick in a well vented room, say 5-10 min or so and matches exactly. Everything looks, works and sounds amazing, couldn't be more pleased!!

The manufacturer is sly about what it is and doesn't give much documentation on application and usage. It took a lot of research to find that you need acetone for clean up even. You could probably make some sheilding paint up as good or better, but in the time it took the high expense of this paint won out again my overall available time. It works for radio frequency sheilding in guitar cavities. It sticks well and cures quickly. there is a little bit more than necessary to do all the cavities front and back , including tremolo recess on a stratocaster with S S S routes including output jack cavity. Probably enough for multiple guitars with less area to cover. In so much as the other intended uses like painting pcb boards and what not, I couldn't say. My only experience is using it as RF sheilding for guitar switch, jack, pickup and tremolo cavities. For that it did the job.

This conductive paint worked very well for recoating the conductive undersides of the buttons on one of our remotes. It is easy to apply and easy to clean up (use acetone). It dries VERY fast, and I did not think the VOC's from the paint were much stronger than any other paint. On important thing to keep in mind is what are your requirements for your project. The paint is conductive, but it is not as conductive as metal. When performing a continuity test on the paint, there is resistance that is about of about 25 to 30%. For the application I was using the product, that level of resistance was not an issue. However, this paint does not replace the use metals when the need is for minimal resistance. Finally, be sure to shake the bottle well, and ensure that you have decent coverage. If what you painted does not have a flat finish to it, you probably did not use enough of the paint. Bottom line... If this paint is used within the parameters it was intended, it will perform very well.

Did three coats of the electronics pocket and pickup cutouts. Only took a little light sanding to knock the gloss down from the clearcoat and it stuck nicely. Excellent conductivity. As others have noted it does have an odour (I thought it akin to a tin of smoked mussels) but the odor goes away once dry. Make sure you spend time doing your surface prep and it's a breeze. Also, use a stir stick of some kind and spend a few minutes really mixing it well. It clumps at the bottom after only an hour of sitting, so you need to make sure you agitate it well before using.

Probably works beautifully as a shielding spray, but doesn't work at all for electroplating-the lacquer floats on top of the silver leaving a non-conductive surface...

Its good

Very worst product

Product is good, but the price doubled in a month! Seems very opportunistic