EcoSmart ECO 11 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 13KW at 240 Volts with Patented Self Modulating Technology

We purchased this water heater based on comments here and like others, we agree that it is a great water heater. We are using it as a whole-house water heater replacing a sixty gallon tank that started leaking. We expected that there would be some adjustment in going tank-less and using an 11KW as a whole-house water heater, for example like not using other faucets while showering, etc., but we were willing to make that sacrifice because we were going to be saving money on the heater, and on electricity with the bonus of doing the right thing for the environment. Well, this heater exceeded expectations by a LOT. We keep it set at 110 degrees which makes for very hot shower but not scalding and no problems using other sinks at the same time. My wife told me she took a shower while the dishwasher was running and expected it to be "cool" but to her surprise there was no problem handling the dishwasher and shower at the same time. It has been about a month since we installed the water heater in our 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath house and we have forgotten that we are heating water on demand because there is no noticeable difference compared to when we had a sixty gallon tank. One of our showers is a double shower and I tried that out, no problem the heater handled both fine with no reduction in temperature. You should be aware our house is a Florida house so our city water comes in at around 68 degrees. If you had well water you will have different results as you will be heating much colder water. One other thing to note, if you take a bath you will want to crank the heater to higher temp, it is so easy with the knob and digital readout I taught my daughter to crank it before her bath so she can add extra hot water to "freshen" up her long and hot bath otherwise 110 degrees isn't hot enough to heat up a cooled bath do to rapid heat loss. You can buy the remote control for about forty bucks and adjust the heater setting from anywhere, or just keep your heater set to a higher temp. We like running it at 110 so that we have maximum energy savings and eliminate scalding risks. I highly recommend this heater, keep in mind that you need upgraded wiring, you will probably have 220 volt electric for your existing water heater but ours was only 30 amp and this one calls for 60 amp so that means getting MUCH thicker wire that is expensive and hard to pull. If your heater can be located close to the breaker box you will save money in wire and the hassle of pulling super thick wire. I bought wiring and breaker for 50amp by mistake and didn't notice until after the installation was finished. We must have never drawn more than 50 amps because the breaker has NEVER kicked even running two showers so I plan on keeping the 50 amp breaker as the wire we used is safe for only up to 50 amps and I'd need to replace the wire to even thicker.

It's surprisingly easy to install and works great. I'd anticipated a significant performance loss when switching from a traditional water heater to a tankless model, but this thing is awesome. Instead of using a low flow shower head I went with a pressure enhancing head, the thought being that why should I limit the flow of water before I had the chance to find out exactly what the capability of the heater is. If the heater wasn't capable of keeping up with the flow I could simply turn down the volume of water, and the pressure enhancing shower head would make it tolerable. As it turned out water pressure wasn't a problem. One neat thing about a tankless heater is that you no longer have to use cold water to bring down your hot water temperature to a tolerable level. If I want hot, but not scalp scalding hot, I simply turn the hot tap to full and I'm set. If I want crazy hot I turn the hot water volume down about 20 percent and I'm lobster red in no time. I'm saving money on the electric bill by not preheating water 24 hours a day, and I have unlimited hot water for when I wanna zombie out in the shower. If that's not a win - win I don't know what is. The only real downside to a 220 volt tankless heater is that because it pulls much more current than a standard water heater you will most likely need to upgrade your existing electrical wiring. The paperwork says that it needs 6 gauge wiring, the largest I had on-hand was 8 gauge. For my short wire run it turned out to be plenty. Even after a long shower the wire temp remains perfectly cool to the touch. I also had to upgrade the existing breaker to a 60 amp model. Changing a 220 breaker sounds intimidating, but it's extremely simple. There are only three wires from the water heater to deal with. The red and black wire go to the new breakers wire terminals (doesn't matter which goes to which terminal) and the ground wire goes to a ground lug inside the electrical panel. Study up on the components of your electrical panel and follow basic safety procedures and you'll be fine. The water connections are super simple. The heater comes with a choice of a compression fitting for copper pipe, or a threaded fitting for use with whatever type of plumbing pipe you're using. I used the threaded connector to connect pex piping. If you've never used pex, think plastic bendable water pipe that can be snapped together to whatever configuration you need using press fit connectors. Press fit connectors are also used to connect your new pex to existing copper pipes. Snip snip, click click, and you're good to go. Gone are the days of soldering copper pipes till you're mad at the world. Having installed this unit in just a couple of hours as a newbie, when and if this unit dies I feel confident that I can easily install its replacement in less than thirty minutes. A water heater that will pay for itself in less than a year, AND reduce future headaches? Why the heck not?

This was purchased in Nov. 2018 to replace a propane tank water heater with an efficient electric tankless water heater, and it performed flawlessly until last night when it died in the middle of my shower. A replacement propane tank water heater costs between $750 - $800 and has a usable life here because of the hard water of 8 years, and the pilot light uses about 6 gallons a month. At the local price of propane, that's about $22 a month, around $265 a year, PLUS the much greater cost of keeping that tank of water constantly hot. This electric heater costs about $200 with the tax and unlike the propane one, there's no further costs if you don't use it. The monthly average use probably costs about the same as just the pilot light does, with propane. This heater has a lot of bad reviews but still less than all the others. A lot of people complain about customer service but it's bad everywhere anymore, which is what you have to expect for stuff NOT made in the USA. If it doesn't work, ship it back and try again. If you paid a plumber, then you're out the money no matter what brand you buy. Just saying, after reading many of those reviews, that we have to take our chances anymore. Start making everything here in the USA again if you want products that last.

Second one I've installed awesome bit of kit

Funciona perfectamente, el agua caliente comienza a salir en menos de 1 minuto. En casa la distancia entre el calentador y la regadera mas lejana, está a aproximadamente 15 metros. Al abrir la llave de la regadera, en aproximadamente 1 minuto comienza a salir agua caliente. Una vez alcanzada la temperatura, se mantiene totalmente estable. Es sorprendente que un aparato de estas dimensiones proporcione tanta agua caliente en tan poco tiempo, y con tan buen flujo, pues la regadera que menciono es tipo ducha, no es una regadera "ahorradora", y caliente perfectamente. Ahora bien, todo esta maravilla viene con un precio, y es el consumo eléctrico. Lo tengo configurado a 35ºC y puedo medir el consumo energético de toda mi red eléctrica. Un baño de 15 minutos consume aproximadamente 1.5 KWh. Si consideras que en México, una casa promedio consume entre 5 y 7 KWh diarios, el consumo de éste calentador es enorme. Estos datos son para finales de febrero, en Guadalajara, Jalisco, en donde la temperatura del agua que se recibe del SIAPA es de alrededor de 20ºC. En tiempos mas fríos el gasto energético consumirá mucho más, en tiempos más cálidos bajará el consumo eléctrico. Necesitas considerar cuidadosamente si esto es una opción para ti, puesto que, dicho en pocas palabras, instalar este calentador en una casa o departamento implica casi en automático pasar a la tarifa DAC (Doméstica de Alto Consumo) de C.F.E. (Estoy en México). De manera que la decisión de compra debe ser respaldad contra lo que actualmente consumes de electricidad. Como guía muy básica te puedo comentar que si tu familia es de 4 integrantes, y usas agua caliente esporádicamente para lavavajillas, lavadora, etc, este calentador fácilmente te consumirá entre 8 y 9 KWh diarios. Yo tengo paneles fotovoltaicos, calculados precisamente para este tipo de consumos, de manera que este calentador es solar, indirectamente, pero solar, sin embargo, instalar un calentador solar de agua propiamente (de esos de tubos de vidrio al vacío) es mucho, muchísimo más económico. Otra cosa a considerar: Necesitas una instalación eléctrica a 220V. y en tu centro de carga requires un breaker de 60 Amperes. Considerando que en muchas casas, el breaker principal de la casa no pasa de 50 Amperes, necesitarás considerar que es probable que necesites actualizar tu centro de carga, tu breaker principal, en resumen... NO es para cualquier casa. Ahora bien, la tecnología que ofrece este calentador, la automodulación es realmente efectiva, no veo bajones repentinos de la intensidad de la luz mientras está en uso, pero definitivamente, el consumo eléctrico es enorme, fácilmente se va a los 50 Amperes en los primeros 30 segundos para lograr calentar el agua rápidamente, una vez que alcanza la temperatura, tiende a bajar el consumo un poco, pero siendo de paso, mientras tengas la llave abierta, el calentador sigue activo, lo cual, por un lado te da agua caliente interminable, por otro lado, en 1 hora de uso fácilmente puedes consumir hasta 13 KWh. Como verás, decidirte por este calentador depende de un cuidadoso análisis, solo es adecuado para situaciones MUY particulares.

works find. very Good product.

استخدمته بدل السخان المركزي استخدمه في ينبع على ١١٠ فولت خطين (٢٢٠) مع قاطع ٥٠ امبير لك خط في الطبلون يحتاج الى سلك ٦مل استخدمه من شهرين حتى الان ممتاز

I know that this is a good water heater. Unfortunately, in the UAE, houses are wired with 4mm diameter cable (AWG8). This requires 6mm (AWG6) as it has high current load. The dangers associated with overheating electric cabling cannot be overstressed. Check your wiring in your house before purchasing. If the wiring can accommodate this heater, it is highly recommended.