BIGTREETECH EBB SB2209 CAN V1.0 Extruder Breakout Board for Voron Stealthburner UART Mode Support Klipper with 100K NTC B3950 + 30-Pin Ribbon Wire Kit

I use this board on a stealth burner for a Voron 2.4. As long as you follow instructions and are careful with the fan board (Make sure not to let it short against either the fan or the extruder fasteners in the stealth burner these are great boards. The fan board is in a very tight space, and you need to make sure that if the fan has mylar stickers you insulate it appropriately. I used some black electrical tape and some Kapton tape to make sure it doesn't have a problem. Also check the back of the board and make sure any soldered leads are not too long or sharp. If need be trim and file very carefully. When putting the front on the stealth burner make sure the pins correctly aligned. Look up Esoterical's guide and it will go pretty easy (This is painful experience speaking). It really beats running all those constantly breaking wires through the drag chains. I also used the separate can bus interface board. If you have problems, check for shorts. They are insidious.

Works great in my Voron 2.4 R2 Build. I was able to find documentation to do a direct hookup to a BTT Octopus V1.1 Canbus off the RJ12 Connection and it works great. No need for extra Canbus board on my installation. Need to make sure to use the same voltage fans on your installation as you cannot choose multiple voltages at the same time. Pt1000 Dip setting can be tricky as documentation pictures I found were turned in different directions making it a little confusing.

Now I only have to worry about 4 wires breaking from repetitive stress instead of 20! Software/firmare was a challenge to set up (fortunately there are lots of guides online and in videos), but seems rock-solid once you do. I do have the same complaint many do - the tiny connectors on the PCB are so small they are both a pain and a potential point of failure. For the 2-wire thermistor connector, I soldered wires to it and put a microfit connector on the other end. More reliable and MUCH easier to access when I want to change printheads.

Works great. Do your homework to set up. My only gripe is that it really should have active cooling when running in an enclosed printer. Instruction don’t make that obvious on how to set up.