4 Pack 3.2V 304Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery Cell | UL2580 A+ Grade 4000-7000 Life Cycles & 10-Year LifeSpan | Deep Cycle Rechargeable & Electric-Vehicle Grade

So far I am happy with the cells. Basic testing put them within 3% of rating and that may be from my testing methods and not the cells. They are not swelled like some I have purchased. They may cost more than others here, but I can see small things that are better than others I have purchased. Things like the covers aren't peeling at the edges, nice polarity indicators, same number of jumpers as cells, cases are not bowed etc. If there is something I would ask to change it would be the aluminum bus bars. Aluminum is about 60% as conductive as copper and these are fairly wide bus bars, but it just feels a little light duty to me. This minor concern did not prevent me from ordering another 16 cells. If I have any issues with these or the next batch that is currently in shipping I will update this.

Great packaging. Clean sparkly and new. Minor bubble defects in individual blue shrink wrap, but i dont consider that anything to complain about. Every single cell metered at 3.29v. I am pleased. Haven't done a capacity test yet, but I dont have a reason to believe they'd lay short.

I purchase 24 cells , They all came in great shape No dings, all tested above there amp hr rating. I put together 3 packs of 8 for 24 volt system, with 3- 200 amp JK BMS's awesome set up. I had 6 Battle Born 100 amp hr. @ $6,000 Had balance problems for 300 amp hrs. Now I have 912+ amp hrs. @ 24 volts for HALF the price. Been working great for 7 month, so we will see in the long run. So far no problem.

Update 06/21/24: So I added 4 more pictures including 2 of the final assembly and 2 screen shots from the BMS showing the battery cells voltage at 2 stages of charging. In reading some of the information online about how to differentiate between a grade A LiFePO4 and an A- or B cell you would top balance and then charge being sure not to have either active or static balancers installed and then review the cell voltages when near the end of the charge cycle. If you have Grade A cells you should be able to charge the assembly to 57 volts before a single cell reaches 3.650 volts. This of course would be for new cells. As a battery ages this is one of the things that will change. My first battery from a different vendor was able to do this for the first 900 cycles of charging. After this I had to move the charge value to 56 Volts to avoid having to have the BMS cycling on and off trying to reach 57 Volts. So with this new one I went through 8 charge cycles from 48 Volts trying to reach 57 Volts to confirm a grade A (or A+ as advertised) battery bank and as you can see in the final picture I always ended up below that. This is a little disappointing but it doesn't mean that the battery assembled is worthless, it still stores a lot of power. I haven't done a full load test as of yet and that will be my next test. I am assuming it will be close to the 230AH promised since the difference in watts stored is very little in the 55 to 57 volt range. The major disappointment would be the longevity of the battery assembly. As they degrade over time the maximum voltage that they can reach decreases. So if you are starting with cells that are not evenly matched at the start you probably aren't going to get the long term reliability hoped for. For instance I have an older BYD battery that when new was 230AH and today it is as measured only able to store 80AH in the voltage range of 48 to 54 volts. You cannot charge it above 54 Volts because of a couple of the cells reaching 3.65 Volts prematurely but it still has some value. So when someone says their battery is good for 4000 to 7000 charge cycles this doesn't really give you much of a picture. It doesn't say that you will have the same capacity on the 4 thousandth charge. Other Things: I am going to remove 1 star for not being able to reach 57 volts since the cells were not evenly matched enough to get there. If you are going to purchase these make sure you do a charging test before final assembly. I assembled and then tested. This was a big mistake. If you have a bad cell deconstructing an assembly can be a lot of work depending on your housing etc. I will be adding an active balancer also. This does help to some degree depending on your usage. If you have small watt movement in both charging and discharging it will help a little. If you are moving large wattage in and out it will help less. Also I will be adding a couple of the small temperature release fire extinguishers to my assembly. (1st entry) So far the pros are there... will update as I build 48 Volt 230AH battery Okay so I am building my third battery. I got my previous cells elsewhere with mixed results but I thought I would give vendors on Amazon a try. I choose Expert Power because they seemed to be, at least how they present themselves on Amazon, a US company. Also their information seemed to be the best and also there were no bad reviews. I intend to update this review as I go along so this is my initial view of the 230 AH battery cells of which I purchased 16 intending to build a 48 Volt battery. PROS: They were packed fairly well in foam formed exclusively to fill four cells and the packing in the cardboard box had more foam padding, double boxed with padding in each. The plus here really has to do with Fedex being the shipping company since in my opinion they do an excellent job. Okay so unpack and do an initial battery voltage test. Thirteen cells had 3.294 Volts and 3 had 3.295 Volts. This is pretty amazing. This company pays attention to detail I think. I received 16 bus-bars along with enough screws to handle any situation that might come up. The bus-bars are some form of aluminum I think. Definitely not copper. But in the situation I will have the max charging current or power out current would never exceed 30 Amps so the aluminum bus-bars are just fine. When using steel screws with aluminum bus-bars and battery lugs you might want to do a maintenance visual and re-torque on some kind of schedule. Initial pictures include an old recycled BYD company battery case that I will use to house the batteries. I will be using Overkill Solars BMS since they have a fantastically accurate in American English manual that covers every aspect of building a battery using their BMS. CONS: I live in Arizona. There is no sales tax for solar equipment in Arizona. So when I go to Santan Solar in Gilbert AZ and purchase solar things I am not paying tax. But when I go to Amazon and purchase solar things I am charged sales tax. I would buy more on Amazon but the tax is a killer. OTHER THINGS: I will be adding to this as I go along.

Great value.

These Lifepro4 batteries are used in my emergency back-up power system, and I expect to get 15 to 20 years of life out of them. LifePro4 batteries are expensive, but they will last a long time if you follow the steps to prep them and use a Battery management system (BMS) available on Amazon. Lithium-based batteries aren't coming down in price anytime soon.

I have not real equipment for capacity testing but I rough idea with a killawatt meter. I pulled just shy of the rated output in 2 tests and also was over the rating in two other tests. All terminals and included screws and busbars was in good condition. Also 4 cells had the same voltage from the moment I got them. For the price you can't beat them. They seem on par with my 100ah amperetime battery.

bought 24 of these and connected then in groups of 8 one whole group swelled up twice their size and the "safety valve" on the top didn't budge! I was terrified that they were going to explode when I removed them from their rack.