6 Pack LM2596 DC to DC High Efficiency Voltage Regulator 3.2-35V to 1.25-30V Buck Converter DIY Power Supply Step-Down Module

I needed a 5V to 3.3V converter and this seems to work very well. I will disconnect the LED to save energy once the project is completed.

So far, so good. I bought a six pack of these voltage regulators. The first one I hooked up I messed up and reversed the input voltage. This immediately smoked the regulator; so beware that there is no reverse voltage protection on the input. This was completely my mistake, and not an issue with the product.I hooked the second voltage regulator up to my test setup, and it worked great. I used a 32VDC power supply salvaged from an old HP printer as the input supply. I tested the output with a high power 2kohm resistor. I was able to adjust the output voltage to a steady 12.00 volts according to my digital multimeter. The input voltage remained approximately the same as before I connected the output load.Then I switched the load to a small DC motor with a gear train attached. The voltage output remained very stable at +/- 0.01 volts from the 12.00 volts I had set with the resister test.Overall I'd say these are inexpensive and very nice little voltage regulators, and a good value for the money. I intend to add a little voltage meter and build a little benchtop power supply with this one.

I purchased this 10-pack of Valefod 10 Pack DC to DC High Efficiency Voltage Regulator 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V Buck Converter to use in converting emergency light / exit signs to use low voltage DC. The converters do what they are supposed to, largely.They are easy to use - power in, power out - not much more to it than that. They are compact. Voltage stays where you set it and doesn't drift (except when overloaded, of course). With 12 V input well regulated, output voltage stayed fairly constant from no load to a 500 mA test load - within 40 mV of the 5.4 V output to which I had set it.One drawback, and as mentioned by others, is a relatively high defect rate, that is, in my very limited sample of just 10 pieces. One of 10 was defective - the output voltage stayed same as the input voltage no matter the setting of the buck module's adjustment pot. A moment's inspection revealed that one pin of the LM2596 switching regulator chip was bent and touching an adjacent pin, creating a solder bridge. In less time than it took to write this review, I warmed the soldering iron and fixed it.Efficiency of these buckers (Valefod) isn't quite as high as I would have expected. At 12 V in and 5.4 V out, with 200 mA load, I measured 125 mA at the input for an efficiency of about 72% - the buck module was slightly warm to the touch. Perhaps the effciency would be better at greater load. However, it still easily beats an LM317 or other linear regulator.Regarding RFI generation by these Valefod buck modules, there are essentially no measures incorporated in the module's design to suppress same. There is just an electrolytic on the input and another on the output. However, with 2 of these buckers running, fed by 12 V through about 200 ft. of twisted bell wire, and each in turn feeding its 200 mA load through about 2 ft. of same twisted bell wire, interference was inaudible. This was checked using an on-premises HF radio transceiver on the 80, 60, and 40 meter bands and with a crummy end-fed antenna which invariably gets noise from being inevitably coupled to the AC power lines via power line ground. If I put a finger on one of the bucker's input leads or output leads, then RFI became audible but not strong. If your application demands low RFI and your setup is not at least somewhat balanced with respect to ground as was mine, then you may need to add some bypass caps and series chokes.

At first, all of the units I ordered seemed to output just barely less than the input voltage. I turned the adjustment screw left and right, but the output didn't change.What I discovered is that if this happens, turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise until you see the output voltage change. It takes a good bit of turning, but when you reach this spot in the settings, you have very good control over the output voltage.So don't send them back right away. Try unscrewing the adjustment screw until the controller kicks in.

The media could not be loaded. Ok i know a few of us tested these things and initially thought they were duds, i thought all 6 of mine were dead too, until i turned the little adjuster about 4 TURNS ANTI-CLOCKWISE. Thennn the voltage started to decrease. I was glad this is all the issue turned out to be. 5 stars on performance and stable too!!

Did what they were supposed to do, but they do have to be adjusted with a load attached. I wasn't able to fine tune the voltage until after I put a load on it, but after that I found it easy to adjust. Though it took a lot of turns until I saw a change.Just use a bench power supply set right above your target voltage and adjust the buck converter down until you see the output voltage drop, then raise your bench supply to your target input voltage and readjust for your target output voltage. These do automatically handle changes in input voltage while maintaining a stable output voltage.Used approx 11mA @ 12v input w/ no output load.Tested with a 0.5 steady, 2A periodically spiked load and maintains a stable voltage without getting too hot to touch. I did install thermal tape connecting it to the chassis for extended operation.

Another foreign made P.O.S. that has to be returned . The unit simply does not operate . it sends the high input voltage straight to the output without any sort of step down . This happens no matter where the adjustment screw is set at . This occurs regardless if the "regulator" has a load attached at startup or not . In short its an expensive piece of wire ....not a voltage regulator !