KAKA INDUSTRIAL SJ-300 Slip Roll Machine, 12-Inch Forming Width, 20 Gauge Capacity Manual Slip Roll Machine

Nice for small jobs works good for what it’s made for

works great

This is my first sheet metal fabrication tool, and initially I thought it was great. But it's actually not so great, since it kinks every single sheet I have ever rolled in it, and after 4 months of ownership and use and I have verified the cause of the problem is not user error, this machine is total junk.By kink I mean it folds the material, the first 3/4 inch or so of any sheet I put in, it will kink that part rather than roll it into a smooth arc. It folds the first bit, and nothing I have tried can be done to solve the issue. I don't know why this machine does it and why not other machines which makes it all the harder to try and resolve.Over time I have also discovered the rollers themselves are not of sufficient hardness and became damaged when trying to roll wire (the wire grooves are also not the right size and don't grip the wire properly), making it more of a useless machine.I wish I have never bought this machine... should have gone with a reputable manufacturer but it is way too late to return it now.

I received this item and the plastic handles on the adjuster bolts were broken. The company sent replacment parts quickly so I was very happy with the customer service. The roller is exactly what you would expect and does the job it is intended for. I have read other reviews saying this doesn't work but Im assuming these people have never used a slip roll machine or are using it incorrectly. For the cost it is a good little roller. Especially if you are someone like me who doesn't have the room to store a larger size slip roller.

Product arrived with the plastic adjusting knob broken on one side, easy set up & functions as described .The crank is poorly designed as it allows for minimal mechanical advantage i.e. a lot of elbow grease overall barely satisfied with the product

Did a good job very satisfied

I'd like to clarify the claims by one user that the slip roll "kinks" each and every piece and therefore seeming the unit as junk... Ok, first you paid <$200. Second, it most certainly is user error. How do I know? I'm a union journeyman sheet metal worker and have spent over a decade as a shop fabricator. From NSF certified kitchen equipment to 90" Diameter 5 gore 45° elbows and everything in between. I've seen it and done it. That qualifies me to say this guy doesn't know WTF he's doing. While the machine is most certainly cheap, hence the $200 tag, that's not what's causing the link in the work. I'll tell you how to remedy that right after I give a quick comparison on equipment. Slip rolls in the hand crank variety are usually several thousand dollars. And most often replacing one of the two required bead roller dies costs more than $200. LOL.Take your material of appropriate gauge the slip rolls will handle. And slide it between lower pinch roll and the top roll. There should be heavy friction and no slop. Adjust the forming roll in the back and don't expect to rip it through one time and be done. Maybe after a decade plus shop experience but otherwise just gradually tighten the back roll until you achieve the desired radius. Now the expert tip...Lower the pinch roll substantially. You'll know if it's too low but start with it too low for now... Open the back forming roll and first feed your material from back to front and only that first 1" or so... You will be looking for a nice starting radius in leiu of the "kink". Now feed the material through the normal way. The only kinks you'll see are the ones in your hair... No more kinks in the sheet metal.

It cannot be set up for repeatability if you need to remove the part by opening the rollers unless you memorize how many turns you have done to set it up. It would be nice if it could be opened without moving the adjustment screws.