PROXXON Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80, 37160 , Green

I have been using my saw for 3 years now daily, building custom pool cues in my garage shop. I have tons of equipment packed in there, but this one is truly my favorite to use. It's extremely well engineered and I loved it except for one thing I'm here to report in case anyone else avoids instructions but reads reviews LOL.When I rotate the base the blade would hit the clamp. I couldn't believe something so well built didn't notice! I showed my son the issue and he said "Dad, why don't you turn the lead screw in the back and move the saw over?" OMG I'm an idiot and not afraid to admit it and help other idiots out there. It's an absolutely perfect little machine for me, and so nice for round material like pool cues because of the V groove in the clamp. It's the best way I've found to make flawless cuts in carbon fiber tubing as well with the equipment transitioning to that, and I'm relearning best practices. This saw makes me so happy after so many disappointments with Chinese disposable junk in the mini power tool category. Next I need the Proxxon mill, then the table saw, or a bigger shop LOL! I just wish I bought this sooner, like 45 years ago...

Here’s the thing this saw will cut probably through just about anything. It’s a strong motor with a good blade. The issue this saw is one that every small miter saw faces and that is how does the blade pass through or get far enough down to make your cuts with the distance between whatever you place underneath the object to be cut and the blade. It’s not a detractor if you need to cut whatever fits within that space however it’s not very workable otherwise.

This is my first try with a saw. My husband set it up and showed me how to work it and I use it in building my dollhouses. I am a novice and have no problems operating this at all. I can highly recommend.

in some ways it's a good little saw, well made and great size; a bit under powered, it struggles to cut 1/4" x 1/4" oak; the stop mechanism used to cut multiples the same length is poorly designed and now very un-usable and one screwy thing is that 2 of the holes in base for fastening to a work surface are in-accessible, at least for easy attachment ... i'll keep it, it works ok for soft wood but i was hoping for better

Excellent PROXXON product; typical PROXXON quality. Item was particularly well packed to prevent shipping damage. Blade change (for copper and brass sheet/tube) was a little difficult for arthritic hands and fingers, but doable.

My four stars are only as I've been using this saw for only two days - there must be something wrong I haven't found, else I'd give it five.I bit the bullet and ordered it on the overall thrust of the reviews. My needs are a bit different than the other reviewers. I cut small very hard steel pieces, and larger less hardened steel. I also have a problem with the short stock on some of my cuts. I've been using the cheap mini-chop, and a larger chop saw - but neither grip the stock well, and neither gives an accuracy of angle.I bought an abrasive blade for ferrous metals for this saw, and I've tested it. I make wood turning "hollowing" tools for my own use. That involves chopping 2 1/2" 10" Cobalt HSS square blanks of 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" in half. I tried a 1/4" blank tonight - cut it square in about 5 minutes (including taking time out to avoid excess heating). My concern was that the blank had only about a half inch of support on the vise - was afraid that it would shift downwards from the pressure of the saw. The grip of the vise is both strong and positive - I got a square cut on the short blank (except when I got impatient at the end and pushed too hard). I'll probably make jigs to support the short blanks in the future - but that is easy, a long piece of soft wood slightly oversized to the cutter blank - the wood will compress and the blank be grabbed, yet it will be supported. I've not seen a better vise yet.My shafts are O-1 steel. I went through a 3/8" shaft in a minute or so, again a fine cut. I expect that I'll be able to cut my larger shafts (9/16" O-1 round stock) in about 10 minutes. Sounds like a long time, but the alternatives are worse - expensive machines, or less accurate approaches - and a lot of noise. I could cut faster with more pressure, but then I'd wear the abrasive wheel with the heat.With an optional wheel this machine cuts hardened steel. As to the wood cutting and soft metal the other reviewers have covered that.One last comment. One reviewer mentioned that at an angle the blade hits the vise jaws. I suggest he try the excellent design feature that allows one to move the entire saw head left or right with a knob. This is more than just a way to adjust the point of the cut - it is also a tremendous convenience in locating the cut. Instead of moving the workpiece to the location of the blade one can clamp the workpiece in the vise securely - then move the saw laterally to hit the point of the cut. I admit that one needs a flashlight to do it (to see one's mark), but a built in light would make the saw package larger. No problem with one handing the operation while holding the flash - the know only requires one hand to shift the saw. It makes a much more accurate line up than re-adjusting the vise.This is a keeper. I could handle accurate wood cuts with a cheaper cut-off saw, but hardened metal needs a good grip, and a positive angling. So far, so good - I think "this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship" (to quote Casablanca and Bogart) with this saw.One final suggestion - and one that is often mentioned in reviews of cut-off saws when used on metal. The sparks. Take a cardboard box and cut it to fit under the saw (this saw requires no positive bench mounting, there is no "movement" pressure)and behind it. Leave enough of the top to hold it together, and cut away the sides for the cord and the knobs. Captures the sparks and filings, and makes for easy clean-up.The strong vise and the positive turntable are what makes this worth the extra money over the other micro cut-offs. It is also a lot quieter. It is not a machine I'd recommend for production metal cutting on the job - one does have to take it slowly. But for me, making tools where most of the process is the later hand finishing, it is perfect.Best, Jon

Saw has good power. Make sure to let the motor get up to speed before making the cut. Item has good strong springs that keep it in the up position until you lower it to make the cut.The safety switch and saw guard take some getting used to, but they are there for a reason - to keep you fingers on your hands.

The only way to duplicate cut lengths is with a gate adjusted up to the end of the material. This creates resistance, of course. When you lower the blade, this resistance causes the material to shoot out and away from the blade, often causing some damage to the piece. Unfortunately, I need to duplicate a lot.It’s a great, well-made tool, if you don’t need to cut a lot of pieces the same length.