926-959 Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing Kit with Oil Cooler Sensors and Gaskets Compatible with 2011-2016 Chrysler 200 300, Dodge Charger Challenger Journey, Wrangler, Ram ProMaster 3.6L

This is the second one I have purchased and installed from this vendor. Now the price is $100 LESS! The first one has been installed for over 2 yrs and is working flawlessly. Since the defective plastic units were not put in vehicles after 2013 I think the demand for these all metal units has diminished, hence the price reduction?

This unit was an easy and simple fix. All the gaskets fit and sealed perfectly. Oil filter is part of this unit. I changed the coolant and oil and immediately after removal and replacement. Initially I was unsure if I had blown head gasket until I did some further inspecting of my motor and research, then realized I needed to replace this cooling unit. After a few months of regular driving the part has been a great product. I'd recommend it to anyone who needs to replace this part.

Very nice oil cooler, i used it on a 2012 Chrysler T&C. Everything bolted right up! And it came with a extra oil filter. I am a Professional mechanic, this is a 3-4 hr job Minimum if u do it the correct way and soak up all the oil and coolant in the V of the engine. CLEAN UP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART. ALL SURFACES MUST B CLEANED THOROUGHLY AND DRY! IF NOT, YOU'LL BE ON HERE CRYING ABOUT HOW IT DIDNT HOLD A SEAL. ALL COOLANT AND OIL MUST BE DRAINED BEFORE EVERYTHING IS DISASSEMBLED

Works great! Took the place off the factory plastic one that cracks and leaks over time. This one is aluminum so no cracks or leaks. It's been in for a year and a half and no problems. A good bang for your buck and does the same as the Doorman and factory which you will pay a good bit more.

I’ve owned my 2013 Chrysler Town & Country for years, and like so many others, I was dealing with the infamous plastic oil filter/coolant housing cracking and leaking coolant all over the engine bay. It was a slow drip at first, then a mess. I’d had enough.I took a chance on this upgraded ALL-ALUMINUM version, and I couldn’t be happier. This thing is built like a tank – no more worrying about Chrysler’s cheap plastic cracking in the heat or cold. Fitment was absolutely perfect – dropped right into place with no modifications needed. Every bolt hole lined up, and all the seals seated beautifully.The install took me about 2 hours working at a relaxed pace in my home garage. It’s definitely doable for a DIYer, but be prepared with the right tools:8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets/wrenches Torx/star sockets (for the studs) A trim/door panel removal tool to gently pop off the plastic pins without breaking them Pro tip: Have a drain pan ready for coolant, and take your time bleeding the system afterward to avoid air pockets.Bottom line: If you’re tired of the factory plastic housing failing, spend the extra money on this aluminum upgrade. It’s worth every penny for the peace of mind alone. Leak is gone, engine bay stays clean, and I’m confident this will outlast the van itself.Highly recommend – one of the best upgrades I’ve done on this minivan!

4/8/2025 Installed this unit on my 2015 2door JK 2 weeks ago. Seems quality built. I would say that if you are considering doing this on your own, be sure to watch a few videos on youtube to make sure you are confident you can install it on your own. It isn’t necessarily too difficult, it is just very tedious; take your time. A few notes to make sure you don’t have to do this job twice: 1. DO NOT use the O-rings and gaskets they supply you with in this kit. They are noticeably low quality. Buy and use the OEM pack: Mopar Engine O-Ring Kit - 68191356AA 2. DO NOT use the pre-installed sensors on the unit. I unfortunately had to do the job twice. The jeep threw engine light and codes after I was done because it did not recognize the coolant temperature and oil pressure sensors on the unit. Order OEM or OEM quality sensors. All you have to do is unscrew them from the unit, and screw on your quality replacements. After re-installing with new sensors. Worked like a charm, no engine light or error codes given. The sensors i ordered are: Dorman 926-188 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Mopar 5149077AB Coolant Temperature Sensor Overall, great alternative to original. You are saving a lot of money going with this unit, but dont skip out on the O-ring gaskets and the sensors; even adding those purchases, you are spending considerably less than half the cost of the OEM replacement unit, and not to mention the hundreds on labor costs. If you are gonna do it, do it right, with the OEM quality O-rings, gaskets and sensors. So far, the housing is working perfectly. Will update in a few months.

This oil cooler feels extremely solid and well-made — the full aluminum construction gives it a durable, heavy-duty feel that inspires confidence. Installation was a challenge, but that’s entirely due to the tight space and design of my Jeep, not the cooler itself. Once in place, it fit perfectly and lined up with all the connections without any forcing or modifications. I decided to use OEM gaskets just to be on the safe side, but the included ones looked decent as well. After installation, everything sealed up nicely with no leaks, and oil pressure has been consistent. I’ve put it through several drives now, including longer trips, and it’s holding strong with no signs of weakness or seepage. Compared to plastic versions, the solid aluminum construction should hold up much better over time, especially under high heat. It’s a little bit of work to get in there, but once it’s installed, you can feel confident it’s going to last.

Install instructions below! This job takes a decent amount of time. For me the longest part was cleaning out the valley once you pull the lower intake plenum off. Drain your engine oil 1st & a good amount of coolant to minimize mess made when pulling the housing off. I highly suggest using OEM mopar gaskets for housing the block mounting. I also personally used OEM sensors. I’ve read reviews for the dorman and every brand metal housing offered. The issues are all gasket and sensor related. I also suggest replacing the spark plugs when doing this job. They are due at 100k miles. Rock auto has the oem champion plugs at amazing prices compared to the mopar stamped champions at $20 each. Unless you know how to read spark plug heat ranges always go oem with spark plugs or run the risk or them not working well. If you have not replaced coil packs I also suggest doing that at this time. Mine started to fail at 69k miles! Lastly there is a rubber oil line hose that comes off this cooler assembly. Now is the ideal time for that as well. I got a new set of mahle intake gaskets as well. I also ditched whatever no name oil filter they provide with this kit. There is plenty of videos on YT to guide you along if I missed a step but here is how it’s done. 1)drain engine oil & loosen oil filter cap to help oil drain down. 2) drain 1 gallon or more of coolant from lower radiator to T stat housing hose from under car is easiest. 3)Remove upper intake air box cover and induction hose. Disconnect MAF sensor & plastic rivet holding into intake. There is no clamp holding TB hose on just twist the intake hose toward windshield to replace ball sockets holding air hose onto TB. 4) remove TB and connectors around it and set harness out of way. Also remove brake booster(check booster hose for cracks. VERY common failure item $43 on rock auto and vacuum hose on TB. 5) remove two 10 mm nuts holding rear intake bracket near TB area. 13mm stud also holding rear brkt on. Move wiring stud loop off stud to expose. Remove two 10 mm nuts under front intake. They are under the upper radiator hose. Don’t remove the front lower bracket mounts. Not needed! 6) remove loosen 8mm bolts holding upper plenum down there is 7 of them. DO BY HAND!! Plastic garbag intake with coarse screws won’t last too many times. Impact guns will ruin the threads very fast. 7) remove upper plenum pull from rear by cowl and should pop free. Put rags in intake holes. 8) remove all coil pack electrical connector and fuel injector connectors. The injectors have red tab u pull up 1st then release connector. Lay harness out of way after remove push x mas tree retaining clips from harness. 9) remove fuel line or u can leave connected and swing lower plenum out of the way after remove lower plenum 8mm bolts. Use hand tools! Plug cylinder head holes with rags. 10) remove five if I recall 10mm E socket or inverted torx bolts holding oil hosing down. Be ready for a mess when you pull straight up on housing. Have WET shop vacuum or fluid pump handy there will be a huge mess once it’s pulled free! 11)tape off or plug holes into engine. Use brake clean and long q tips or cotton swaps and rags. I sprayed brake clean let it soak. Vacuum it then repeat 4-5 times as needed. The more debris you leave in this engine valley the more smell the engine will always have after! 12) clean all block mating surfaces. 13) lubricate oring on new housing that’s the main feed tube. This will prevent the gasket from rolling or tearing on install where it goes into the block. install new filter housing with new mopar gaskets or roll the dice. 68191357AB is new updated #. Temp sensor #5149077AB the oil pressure sensor is dependent on vin # go on mopar websites and run vin for correct oil sensor # or call local dealer 14). Change spark plugs and coils before installing lower plenum harness. Gap to 0.043” they are NOT pregapped as they claimed. They are way off! 15) add .5-1qrt of engine oils to flush oil pan & drain. 16) reinstall all parts in reverse order with new intake gaskets upper & lower (mahle or felpro work well) 17) refill engine oil after draining it again. 18) remove upper radiator hose and fill with coolant/water. 19) turn heater on inside car and start engine. Check oil housing area for leaks. Let engine run a bit and loosen bleeder screw in T stat housing the purge air from system. When it leaks coolant from the bleeder screw should be purged of air. Top off cooling system & check engine oil level. 20) once cooling system is bled of air and coolant temp is at normal should be good to test drive. Take on short local drive watching temps and idiot lights don’t come on. Book time on labor is 2 hours. Without a lift (for oil draining and coolant draining ) and cleaning that engine block valley it took me most of the day! You can do it! Take your time and be sure you have E sockets or inverted torx bits. Harbor freight had them for $13 for a set. I will update if I have any issues. Did this job at 130k. Not leaking but common issue failure at around 120-150k miles that can ruin the engine if housing fails mixing coolant and oil. Going on 8 hr road trip soon.