WEILEITE 926-876 3.6 Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Cooler Filter Housing Fit For Dodge Journey Charger Challenger Caravan Durango Avenger Wrangler Grand Cherokee Chrysler 200 300 Town Country 2011-2016

The dealer or any auto shop specializing in Jeep wanted to charge me $1800+ to repair this problem of leaking oil after an oil change that should have been a factory recall no matter how old the 2014 or newer Jeep Grand Cherokee was. I bought this part from Amazon and took it to my local Pep Boys who charged me about $600 for the labor for a problem they said they were not surprised to see because it happens to most Jeep Grand Cherokees after a few too many oil filter changes. I saved at least $1100 and my Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland and not dripped one drop of oil since. This is an excellent value, fits perfectly and looks exactly like what Jeep should have created in the first place in instead of that factory plastic.

Bought 2 since I own 2 jeep cherokees. Took 1 to shop for coolant leak and radiator was replaced. Mechanic found the oil cooler was leaking and quoted 950.00 to replace it. I replaced 1 that was leaking. Quality and fit seems good but I made the mistake of not replacing the sensors before install.its been 13 days since install and although seems to be holding up well, car threw a po298 code for high oil temp. Oil and coolant levels are good and no leaks from cooler. Will be tearing engine apart AGAIN to replace temp sensor. You can bet that when I replace the other cooler, I will replace the preinstalled sensors before install. All in all I figured doing this job myself saved about 1700 on 2 so I'm ok with that. UPDATE: Decided to reset the code and see if it came back. I'm happy to report that after a month, the sensor is working properly and still no leaks. I have upgraded my review to 5 stars. This saved me a ton of money and was an easy install. Recommend to anyone.

Oil on bottom was most likely melting but also having no solid seal to bottom o-rings was probably not much help. I had smoke coming from heatshield and coolant/oil leaks. So far replacing this has stopped it but I also realize now just how much oil sat in the little crevasse under this cooler. I did put a picture up of the oil approx 2 inches deep, definitely make sure you clean all of it up because it will not go anywhere unless you get to it only so much can evaporate. As you can see the remnants of the gasket on the burnt one on the left. New part was a perfect fit and the screws and gaskets included for reinstallation was of great value and quality. Even the 8 e torx screws (should be five) seemed exact fit and no trouble at all putting back together. I really appreciate this product and thank you to the seller for the great price as well I hope it stays affordable for others and at the time of purchase it was about 75 dollars.

The plastic one that was on was leaking a little and wanted to be proactive about it. I ordered this and the unit seems well made and solid construction. One thing I would have done over is removed the sensors and installed OEM ones. ONE thing I did do was use some black RTV on the O-ring-to-housing surface as it's not machined and possibly prone to a leak. I also went with OEM seals. I see videos online of people having a large amount of oil/coolant in valley when they go to pull the old one out, I didn't have this problem, pull it into the garage, let it sit overnight and pull it the next morning, you'll have zero cross-contamination, you'll get a little oil/coolant in the valley but nothing that will fill it up! I also changed the plugs while I was in there. Use the proper E8 socket! Torque to spec! I think it was 89 in-lb. You will have to do a little bit of fenagling to get it in, but it will go, no force!! 1) RTV seals into the bottom of the housing (do this days prior to allow proper adhesion, also, clean the surface where the RTV is going with brake clean) 2) let vehicle sit overnight to prevent cross contamination 3) USE OIL ON THE O-RING TO EASILY SLIP THE TUBE IN THE HOLE! (not sure why people don't do this simple thing) 4) Change the plugs while you're there, I don't care if you changed them 20k miles ago, change them! It takes 20 min. 5) It's been almost 2k miles and no leaks and oil pressure and temps are fine.

Very nice, this is the second one of this brand I have bought. The first one is still going strong after about a year. I am using the sensors that come with the unit and have had great luck with them. My only suggestion is to order Felpro gaskets/ o-rings, perhaps the ones included are fine but I really want top of the line. Next one that is leaking will get one of these.

Update 9/5/25. 2 years later and 20k miles later and still mint! No issues! Got about 300 miles on mine so far. Being a mechanic myself I usually allways try to go with OEM parts over aftermarket. But the price difference was to good to pass up. A new OEM oil cooler from jeep is about 500 dollars. However if you have a seal that casuing your leak you could allways just replace the seals and keep your OEM oil cooler. But I was curious to see how this one worked, so I went ahead and bought the whole unit. As of yet there is no leaks. But I do recommend keeping your OEM one just in case if the aftermarket one fails and replacing the seals. I also installed this myself so I can attest that the fit was perfect. All the seals lined up and was completely plug and play. I will update this review if I run into any issues. But so far I definitely recommend. UPDATE: Still running great, car is holding the same coolant I had put in 6 months ago back when I bought this part, never had to fill the overflow a drop. Totally leak proof. A major thing I recommend is spraying those seals with white lithium grease before installing the oil cooler. People are blaiming the part when in reality its probally because they installed the oil cooler dry. Those seals have to be greased up good to make a good seal and slide into place.

Will be buying again for my other car this part was of good quality and half the cost of the bigger products

BUYER BEWARE! The oil pressure sensor failed and started signaling low pressure within about 300 miles. Save yourself a whole world of panic and just swap it off of the cooler before installing it. My partner had to endure a 40 mile white-knuckle drive. We had to gamble: Wondering if we really bad pressure or if the sensor was the culprit. This was NOT fun. I'm glad I went back to the reviews and other folks had reported the same issue. THANK YOU everyone for the head's up! That's why I'm making sure to send the same message to hopefully help another DIYer. We could have easily spent hundreds to over a thousand or more in towing, mechanic/shop fees, etc. Driving with a low oil pressure light is SCARY. What if it was the oil pump?! My advice: If you already bought this, just spend the money to get new ones that are CERTIFIED for your vehicle. IF YOU'VE YET TO BUY: Honestly, do the math. With the added cost of the sensors.. You might just want to put up the extra cash and get the Dorman cooler.. We're here because we're poor and trying to cut corners. It doesn't always save you money in the end. I've learned the hard way time and time again it can often cost you more. Anyway.. Obviously we are also going to be swapping the temp sensor. Really wish we didn't have to take the manifold apart twice, but here we are. PLEASE learn from our mistake! All-in-all - I'm not a mechanic, so take this with a grain of salt - I still feel good about the decision to ditch the plastic cooler for aluminum. The potential for coolant to get into the oil was just too much of a risk for my liking. We already had an oil leak from the old cooler, on a vehicle that hasn't yet hit 150k miles. Good luck! (Installed on our 3.2L V6 Jeep Cherokee (2015) with around ~130k Miles) P.S. Also looks like from other reviews that the gasket/seal on the filter cap may not be the best, so keep an eye on it. Might just be worth it to swap that, too.