Dorman 911-643 Secondary Air Injection Check Valve Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models

Perfect fix! Erased the p2440 code on our 08 Sequoia. The pumps can also be problematic (apparently they get water in them) I took ours out and inspected them but they looked dry and okay. This part did the trick but it was an all day procedure. You have to take off the intake and a thousand vacuum lines to get at it. Also it is in a tough spot so I watched a video on YouTube for tips which helped a lot. I am no mechanic but the dealer wants 3k-4K to do this so I took a chance

2008 Toyota Sequoia with a P2440 error code. Dealer wanted $4000 for the repair. Order the Dorman 911-643 and did the job myself, saved me a lot of money. Note: It is a semi difficult job to do for a weekend warrior even with the right tools. Local mechanic quote was $800 for labor.

This product did not work for my 2008 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7L. Spent 4 hours changing the part because codes were indicating secondary pumps and control valves were bad. Truck drove alright, but check engine light was on and mileage was pretty bad. After changing the secondary valve unit, truck went into limp mode with 4LO, traction control, check engine, and VSC off lights on or flashing. Had to remove the control valve assembly and buy one from Toyota. Installed and running fine.

I watched some videos and really procrastinated about it for a few days. However, it was not bad at all. I really didn't need the Felpro gaskets either but I ordered them at the same time. My 2008 Tundra has 190K miles but the old gaskets where still soft and would have worked fine. I did not install the whole part. I removed the actuators and reed valves using the 8 screws on top, dropped on the replacement ones and 1500 miles later, its running like new. 19.2 MPG on the interstate so almost as good as new. There is no need in removing the bottom manifold since those can take a lot more time to access the bolts and will double the time involved. Its just a manifold, no moving parts and you risk a leaking gasket or stripped bolt so don't bother. Hope you find this helpful. Thanks, DS

Lots to say here, but let me just start by saying, overall the product is not bad. It’s definitely cheaper than buying it from Toyota directly. This is the second time we have purchased this product as we purchased it the first time in 2019 and it lasted four years with only about 50,000 miles or so accrued on the truck. So I don’t think it’s fantastic by any means, but we don’t plan on keeping the truck much longer so it will get us by until then.What I would also like to mention is, it’s actually very easy to change on your own. I would recommend changing the gaskets at the same time and they are fairly cheap. I would highly encourage and recommend watching some YouTube videos on how to change it as you don’t need to change the whole component. You can takeoff the top two round portions of the unit and do the same in your truck instead of pulling the whole unit out and that will save you about two hours worth of time. It’s really simple to do. I hope this helps somebody out there.

Bought a Tundra that was stuck on limp mode. This was the fix that I needed.

As it said, it was very easy to install. I wish the wire connections were a bit harder material, but that’s not the shipper’s fault. I broke one of the clips and had to order a new one. Beyond that, the product is good. Took me less then 30 mins to install it. My truck is no longer running around n limp mode and it’s going on over a month since I installed the part.

This did not work for my 2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 sr5… I spent hours taking the truck apart to replace this part, then putting it all back together. Once I made sure everything was hooked up, and put back together, went to start the truck to check if the original codes where gone, only to find out my 4lo, RCSA, check engine and traction control are all light up along with 16 new codes! I cleared the codes and then there where 11! Disconnected battery for a day, then 7 codes..I tried to clear codes, nope! Called local shop ( they have an 8k snap on code reader) and they tried to clear.. nothing worked.. called dealer who had it for 6 hours and said that they would have to replace the whole system as they tried to clear the ecm 4 times and truck was stuck in limp mode…After doing some research I found out that this Dorman part is not OEM spec and the electronics on top MAY not communicate with the ECM properly and therefore throw a ton of codes.. ended up purchasing the Toyota part, tore back into it and put it all back together ( second time took about an hour) and low and behold all codes gone, out of limp mode and running perfect!!I paid $309 for the part at the dealer, and $40 for the new snorkel in the wheel well to keep the water out, and wish I would have bought Toyota from start. As per a few of the techs, they all stated Toyota’s electronic tolerance are so tight, that they run into aftermarket part problems a lot with electronics..