PC Products PC-Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste, Two-Part 24 oz in Two Cans, Tan 44330

This works great for repairing damaged wood. The extra "set-up" time it provides makes it easy to work with. Unlike Minwax or Bondo wood repair epoxy putty, which both harden very quickly, Woody's gives you plenty of time to apply and "tool' the mixed putty. This works out really well when you are covering a larger area or one that requires more time for "detailing". The downside is that it takes quite a bit longer for Woody's to be ready for sanding and painting. I wound up using all three products on a recent project. I found that the Minwax and Bondo set so quickly after mixing in the hardener that I had to work fast and often felt too rushed. More than once the putty would solidify before I was able to apply it all (even working in small batches). With that in mind, I would say the Minwax and Bondo products are great for smaller repairs or any other situations where you can apply the material quickly. The fact that both are ready for sanding and painting in under an hour means you can power through and complete those particular repairs in half a day. I would say that Woody's is best when the repair is larger, more complex, or, for any reason, requires a bit more time and care for applying and shaping the material. One other thing to note with Woody's is that you have to pay attention to mixing close to equal portions of the two-part product. If you have too much of one part and not enough of the other, it won't set properly.

My first project with this turned out to be a disaster, but I learned a lot from how poorly things went, so I would probably have a better experience next time. It would have been nice to know some of this beforehand. Important lessons:1. Don't use your gloved hand to mix the two parts. You will lose like 25% of the mix right off the bat -- irrevocably stuck to your glove2. You need more than you think -- mixing the 2 compounds is like adding salt to water, 6oz of compound 1 + 6 oz of compound 2 make like 6.1 oz of mix. I'm exaggerating of course, but this really did catch me off guard.3. I found the ideal way to mix and spread this after I'd wasted the first batch. Put it in a ziploc baggy, mix it, and then cut the corner to squeeze it where you need it, like one of those icing applicators. Otherwise it sticks so bad to every trowel/tool that it's just annoying to work with.

With no experience whatsoever, I was able to fix significant and deep area of dry rot on wood railing. Impossible toget someone to do small job in area in which I live so decided to do myself, a senior woman.Applied several coats after letting product dry thoroughly between coats in order to restore original squared off shape.Sanded to finish surface and painted later. So happy to have found this product on Amazon andto have reviews from others in order to choose best product for the job I had to do.

I used this to repair a rotted lower door frame. It was easy to apply and the two part epoxy putty cured rock hard and strong. It’s easy to sand and drill as well. The woodwork around our front door looks as good as new!

A few months ago, I began a restoration of my 10 year old deck. Although I had used pressure treated lumber, some of the deck boards had experienced partial rot on the edges (possibly due to organic material which had become lodged in the narrow spacing between the boards). Since the deck is not located where it can dry out in direct sunshine due to surrounding trees, the matter that collected remained wet enough to cause the rotting issue.I removed each board for inspection, and scrapped of the residue. Some boards weren't rotted badly enough to require filler (i used a wood hardener on these). But others needed to have the rotted wood dug out.I tried several other products, but wasn't very satisfied with the results. The filler wasn't drying hard enough, and could easily be scrapped off.Then I tried PC Woody. The 2 part mix was easy to work with, dried quickly (even deeper fills within 24 hours). I was then able to sand and stain the affected areas, and the results have held up wonderfully.I would highly recommend this product to others.

I've used this stuff a couple times to patch exterior wood that had some water damage, and it seems to work. You need to chisel out all the damaged wood so that the filler can bond to a clean surface, and be sure to give the filler plenty of time to dry and cure. I haven't needed to match the color of the wood being patched, which is good because in terms of color match, this stuff reminds me of a "flesh colored" Band-aid. But it took primer OK and seems to be staying put on both horizontal and vertical surfaces. So, I have no complaints and will use it again.Also, one thing I forgot to mention earlier: this filler is thicker than most caulks, but you can still smooth it with a finger when it's workable. I usually wear latex gloves while applying, so I can use my finger to force it into cracks or smooth it out. I also keep some damp rags on hand to wipe away excess.

I had some very rotten windows and a decaying front door but no interest in using highly toxic chemicals to repair them and nowhere near enough money to replace them. After much research I found this. I closely watched a four part YouTube video on how to use it best (recommended) found a UK supplier on Amazon and then set to work in the hot dry weather of earlier this year. It's worth doing the proper prep work if you want it to last but that's true of any job.I sanded off the old paint (pretty much gone anyway) removed all the most rotten wood, drilled holes into the remaining frames/door (angled down where necessary to ensure maximum absorption) and coated all the wood and drill holes very liberally in PC Woody's wood hardener, which true to description has hardly any smell. I let it cure for a few days to very hard since even a spring heat wave doesn't match Arizona desert temperatures and drying time for both hardener and filler is temperature dependent.Then I took a glob from each of the epoxy wood filler tins in a 1:1 ratio mixed well and applied. It isn't the easiest stuff to apply, especially since I was replacing so much of the wood - I had to do it in layers. I recommend wearing latex gloves or similar as it's very sticky, but also true to advertising it doesn't have to be super smooth as it sands down really well and easily when fully dried. I also tried sawing and drilling it and that works too. It smells slightly while drying but nothing to notice (less than low VOC paint).For the record if you add slightly more brown than white it's more malleable but takes longer to dry and vice versa. And don't expect it to harden as fast as it would in a very hot dry climate, but once it does it's rock solid (again I left it a few days). Although the tins look tiny they do more than you'd think. After sanding and painting the windows and doors look like new. You can't tell what's the wood and what's the filler. But it won't look like natural wood without a bit of artistry if you aren't painting it. I'm so pleased there's a non toxic solution to fixing/filling rotten wood that doesn't carry danger of death warnings all over the tin. Yes it's a lot more expensive, but what price health?

Used to recover damaged garden furniture wood, great adhesion and shaped up beautifully to a perfect finish.

Excellent stuff does shrink a bit but looks great once hardened

Very good product. Only down side is you must wait 24/48 hours to cure before sanding or drilling

I ordered smaller container set before. I have a 120 year old house, window sills outside were not attended to for a long time, with almost no paint left, deep cracks in the wood, I can't even describe how deep and warped they were. No dry rot, though, and it is a very hard wood.I scraped, cleaned them the best I could, followed by PC-Woody's wood petrifier/aka plastic wood(not exact name) and then with this product. The result- very strong, very hard surface, with sanding afterwards and painting with oil paint, windows look like new. Sorry, I don't have pictures, but the before picture would be showing hopeless state needing replacement. With little work and diligence, and these two products, I saved my original windows.Product is tricky to mix, I have not figured out a nonstick container or spatula to mix, but not too bad using it for thin layer onto the windowsill, one can apply it with quite smooth result. Consistency is similar to play-dough, but sticky. Wash tools right away with water. Work time is not very long- about 30 min, then it's not as pliable. Can be applied in very thick layer- 2 inches, because it does not dry, it cures, so no cracking or deformation. I have not tried it on the vertical surface, which I need to do. Consistency of the mix is such that it will slump/sag if applied thick vertically, so it will be difficult to keep shape. I am planning to use a piece of wood or metal and figure out what I can use to cover it to make it non stick, so I can get a straight smooth vertical surface.