PC Products PC-7 Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Heavy Duty, 1lb in Two Cans, Charcoal Gray 167779

I find a lot of excellent and helpful reviews here that all acknowledge that this is a demanding and challenging material to work with UNLESS you know what you are doing and THEN it is a very strong and long lasting material with many uses. Xylene is practically necessary. The value of being able to clean mixing surfaces and application tools INSTANTLY can't be overstated. This is probably the most difficult mixing I've seen with any material but it always works with the right tools and a little patience and the result is a heavy thick paste that gravity can sag before it fully sets hours later. That elastic strength is why it is one CRITICAL step in many demanding situations. I often like to use a thinner penetrating mixture first and follow it with this before fully cured until almost flush. Then I will usually finish with a finishing mix skim coat. Works great for me. I recommend every handy man or woman that doesn't know this stuff to get some to experiment with. Then you'll know what you're doing and what you can do with it. It lasts for years, even half used. I won't be without some on hand. Note: don't try to work this before it is half cured when you can scrape and carve it beautifully with different tools. Sanding shouldn't be attempted before full cured. Once cured, a lot of rocks wish they were this strong and the bond will be crazy good if you follow the easy steps.

This was the perfect option for repairing the cracks in the concrete in my garage. The consistency of the 2-part epoxy was very difficult to mix and spread, but I couldn't be happier with the results. First I ground out the cracks with a masonry grinding blade and cleaned them out. Then I mixed and spread the epoxy into the cracks. I probably could have scraped as much of the excess off but I didn't know if it would shrink and need another layer. It didn't shrink and I definitely wish I would have scraped the excess off before drying. After 48 hours it was hard enough to grind flat. I used a 4-1/2" double row diamond grinding wheel. Turned out great and I am more than happy with the PC 2-part epoxy for this job.

This is powerful stuff. It would be good if you have a tile to mix it on, but it is so very clever and strong and dries very quickly.It would’ve been better if it was a neutral colour but I will check that out

Thia epoxy , when mixed properly has a very “gooey” consisdency. It bonds well and eventually does harden, but working with it is difficult because its consisdency is similar to a slightly thin peanut butter. As a filler it doesnt work well in horizontal uses. Its too flowable.If you want a “putty” type epoxy this isnt it. Its close, but not quite . It’s also very sticky. Hey, its glue! For my application I had to clean out the area of this epoxy with paper towels and use JB weld. Also, be aware, cooler weather requires 24hrs. Plus to set up .

Excellent two part epoxy I always use it for my boat repairs.

Consistent good results:I used it for two weeks now and made about 6-7 batches to glue metal banisters into the handrail of my staircase. Each batch cured well and there seems no difference in the end result despite the fact that I didn’t measure anything. I just eyeballed as best as I could.Work time:I actually don’t know! I used each batch within about an hour after mixing at about 70 degrees and low humidity. I noticed it got a little stiffer, but otherwise still as sticky as before.Cure time:After 24 hours it was very hard but had some minimal flexibility and after 48 hours it appears fully cured. However, this material doesn’t become brittle, which is important for my application as there is always going to be movement between the wood and metal.Consistency of paste and mixing:Each component has a distinctive different consistency. The light gray (part 1) is somewhat crumbly, grainy and slightly sticky. You can get it easily out of the can and reasonably well of the spatula that I used to scrape it out of the can. The pitch-black hardener (part 2) is a totally different story. It is annoyingly sticky and although thick, will slowly flow. Think of ultra-thick honey. This makes it a pain to get out of the can and very difficult to get off the spatula.Now to the mixing part. Somewhat difficult because it is sticky and thick, but within 3-5 minutes you end up with a dark grey paste that has the consistency of chewing gum. When you try to lift a small amount off the mixture, you will stretch the material until it gets thin enough to break off. For me, the best tool was a disposable chop stick which I rolled back and forth to capture the stretched-out material.Stickiness:I had to work it into the wood grain for it to stick well. For example, if I would drop a small amount on a smooth surface, I would suspect you could easily pry it off once it is cured. But once it is pressed into place it will never come off.Flow properties while uncured:As I alluded to before, this material will flow a little bit over the course of 1-2 hours. In my case, I had to smear it into the holes at the bottom of the handrail. It worked reasonable well, but you can't put too much in the hole or it will slowly flow out.

Worked great for repairing an old shotgun forend.

I used this product for added insurance after I repaired a broken gearbox. No leaks so far . I would recommend using this