eRapta Reverse Camera 3.0 License Plate Backup Camera HD 149° Wide Rear View IP69K Waterproof IR Night Vision Easy Mount DIY Grid for Cars Trucks Pickups SUV RV Van Jeep ERT11

Please stay with me as we delve into the details. I specialize in tech reviews. In general, these license plate cameras can be a great buy, yet all brands in this price range face reliability challenges. This means great customer service and ease of replacement are essentials.WHICH eRAPTA? ERT11 VS. ERT01:First, be sure you have received the latest design with the all metal bracket. If yes, both are rated at IP69 to keep the water out! Both are considered high res at 1280 x 720 pixels. However, the fact they use standard RCA connectors makes this claim one not to rely on. In real world use, the eRapta’s typically yield a very impressive and sharp image, with quite decent color fidelity, too. Both are also related down to .1 LUX. A lower number is better—meaning they resolve low light well.Of these two, I suggest spending just a little more for the ERT11 without lights. Cameras like these rely on your tail lights plus their LUX rating. Ask yourself, how many built in car camera have mini LED lights surrounding them? Answer: None. No mini LEDs means one less thing to go wrong and a few users have complained about the ERT01 lights getting stuck in the on position. Subtle is best so after auditioning both, I went with the ERT11.WHAT ABOUT BOYO?The Boyo’s advantage lies in its superior bracket. Many factory cameras such as those on our Audi’s and Honda’s rely on a 45 degree angle. Boyo makes it easy to swivel the camera on the bracket to get the angle right. These allows for more accurate guidelines placement, too. On the downside, its resolution is 600TVL which actually means 720 x 480. Is this a disadvantage vs. eRapta? Yes and no. If you have purchased a high-end digital media receiver with a true high res screen, go with eRapta for sure. However, most screens like my Pioneer resolve about 800 x 400. They do not upsample images. Thus, when comparing eRapta to Boyo, resolution is not a strong determinant of image quality for most users.Most importantly, the Boyo is not sealed as well as the latest eRapta design. This means it is much more likely to get water inside. Thus, after evaluating both, despite the challenges with eRapta’s less versatile bracket, it’s the clear choice for me.WHAT ABOUT eRAPTA’S 149 DEGREE ANGLE VS. 170 FOR BOYA?Speaking from the perspective of a professional photographer, I would much rather have a camera slightly less wide at 149 degrees. The distortion is less and the view is still very wide. The wider the angle, the more far away that people behind you will appear in a parking lot. I can see a small child better with as a slightly tighter field of view.HOW TO ADJUST THAT DARN FRUSTRATING eRAPTA BRACKET?Although I am a huge fan of the ERT11, the only way to change the angle is by bending the bracket. Thirty-five degrees is the limit. Why is this an issue? If you don’t cut the green wire and decide to use the built in guidelines, for many cars this will leave the lines floating in space. Using two pairs of pliers, including one needle nose, I was able to bend the bracket out to get the angle much closer to 45 degrees. I also placed a small triangular shaped binder clip behind the top of the license plate to make the top just out a bit farther. You’ll see in my photos that the Honda CRV built in 45-degree angle now closely matches how I customized the eRapta. With the license plate screwed in tightly, these subtle angle changes do not show—the camera does not appear jut out more than before the bracket was bent.In any case, I strongly suggest that the good folks at eRapta go back to an adjustable bracket.WHAT ABOUT CUSTOMER SERVICE?As others have noted, utterly superb at eRAPTA. Commendable! I’ve had great communications with rapid replies. Although I have not tried to contact Boyo’s California office, I have read that others have been frustrated trying to reach them.WHAT IF THE CAMERA STOPS WORKING?Happily, eRAPTA gives a lifetime warranty but that does not mean it won’t be a pain replacing the camera. To ease the pain, I suggest having two on hand when you do the install. If one is bad, the other will likely be fine.Regarding wiring, most cameras of this type now have standard four pin connectors near the back of the camera. Try to do your install with an easy way to reach inside to grab the connector and pull it out should you need to change out the camera. Fortunately, it is highly unlikely you will need to redo the wiring all the way to the head unit.CONCLUSION:Hope this too long review has been of some small help. My impression is that eRatpa is always trying to improve its cameras and that’s admirable. Time for a more flexible bracket design but otherwise highly recommended.

The camera works well. Customer service was excellent.When I mounted the bracket behind the license plate I could not bend the camera down enough to avoid having the lines floating slightly too high. The downward angle of the OEM camera is about 45 degrees. The best I could manage was 35 degrees before the camera pushed against the license plate. If I mount the bracket on the front of the plate it covers up the name of the state, so I can't do that. I will try enlarging the hole in the bracket to see if I can slide the camera up a bit higher.I decided to put in a new camera while replacing the head unit. It took quite a bit of effort to run the cable from the head unit to the rear (Honda 2013 (Gen 4) CR-V hatchback), but any wired camera will take the same effort. I removed various bits of interior trim and ran the RCA cable along the driver's side floor edge to the wire harness for the lights in the rear area. The power wire for the signal and reverse lights are both grey. I used a low voltage tester (Klein dual range) to pick out the reverse power wire and used a Posi-tap to connect. I had to lengthen the power wire from the camera to reach this location, so from here I ran an additional wire as I ran the RCA cable to the hatch. I lifted the trim along the inside left vertical of the hatch opening with a trim removal tool and was able to push the cable and wire underneath. I gently pulled down the edge of the headliner and was able to pick up the cable/wire. I then fished a pull wire through the seat belt unit in the ceiling and out the headliner. I then pulled the cable/wire through to the seat belt unit...but I did not pull the RCA connector all the way through, only the black part of the cable. I unclipped the flexible wire harness connecting the hatch and body. Then I fished a pull wire through the harness hole, through the hole in the 'inner' roof and through the seat belt unit into the cabin. I then pulled the cable/wire back out to the harness, and then I pulled the RCA connector through (so the RCA pin end came out last, to avoid snagging). Then I ran a stiff fish wire through the flexible wire harness towards the wire (left to right). Be patient if you do this...you don't want to snag and break one of the wires in the harness. You have to stretch the flexible harness as go. Then I pulled part of the RCA cable through (but not the connector, not yet). Once I had part of the wire through, I was able to pull the RCA connector though (again, pin last) . I put some soap on it first. Still, it was not easy, since I was worried about harming the existing wires. Then I fished a wire through the left side of the hatch and out the hole for the flexible wire harness, and repeated the process of pulling only the cable wire first, and the RCA connector last. That, at last, got the wires where I needed them. I detached the OEM camera and figured out I could drill a hole through the top if it (from the outside going in) for the camera connector. 5/16" diameter. That preserved the OEM camera in case I wanted to go back to it. [The connecting clip on the OEM camera broke so I secured it with silicone after I ran the camera cable from the outside to the inside.] You can only do this if your first loosen the OEM camera. Or, you can drill a hole through the hatch.At head unit side, I attached the red trigger wire to the reverse wire from the head unit . By the hatch, I grounded the black wire on an existing bolt and I connected the trigger wire with the power wires (one from camera, and the extra (longer) wire I had to run from the reverse light).

I just installed this camera to replace an Esky mini bullet camera. I've run the smaller mini on 3 different trailers for about the last 7 years. I've travelled thousands of miles to numerous race tracks and swear by these very affordable systems. They take so much stress out of driving a 24' enclosed trailer long distances.I've had to replace them about every 3 years because while they still have continued to work, the image quality diminishes over time. They get hazy, assuming due to eventual moisture penetration.I decided to pay about double the cost with the hope of better image quality and longer life.I just installed this new camera and while I cannot speak to it's longevity, I can say without a doubt that the image quality at night and dusk/dawn is FAR superior. Daytime color is much better but the smoothness of the image and detail seems slightly less accurate.Installation was fairly straightforward since I've done it a number of times. The wiring is plug and play with the older system but as others have mentioned, the supplied brackets are keyed to the rear of the camera housing making it not reversable and will take some creative bending to make it sit flush on the top edge of the trailer while still facing down at the proper angle.The photo in this review was taken at about 5am. As you can see through the windshield it was still quite dark out but the rear view camera appeared like daylight. I am so far very impressed with that aspect of this camera. I'll update this review at some point "down the road'.