🎨 Craft Your Own Luck with Szecl Dice Molds!
The Szecl 7 Shapes Dice Molds set includes high-quality silicone molds designed for creating custom game dice. Perfect for DIY enthusiasts, these molds allow for the addition of various embellishments and are easy to clean and de-mold, making them an ideal choice for family fun and creative gifting.
E**Y
Great molds, the lids are NOT backwards! People saying that are putting them on upside-down.
I'm happy! These were my first dice molds I bought to try dice making for the first time. They're great! If you want to mass produce dice on a large scale, I might recommend getting a different type of mold, but if you just want it to be a hobby (like I do), these are great! I've made about 15 dice sets using these molds and a few of the molds are starting to have some minor tears in the silicone where the lids fit on - not enough to affect the integrity of the dice, but they are showing a bit of wear and tear, hence why I'd recommend something else if you're going to be making fifties and hundreds of dice sets.THE PEOPLE WHO SAY THE LIDS ARE BACKWARDS ARE JUST WRONG. They're putting the lids on upside-down. It looks a little counter-intuitive but isn't hard to figure out quickly that these dice molds are built to have a precise seal and fit with the lids (actually quite a high quality thing in my opinion) such that the lip on the lids goes under a lip on the molds - it makes sense when you look at them, just put the lids on with the raised number facing INSIDE and it'll all be clear to you and your dice will turn out perfect with all the numbers where they should be.TIP FOR NEW DICE MAKERS to eliminate/minimize BUBBLES: Heat is key. I don't have a pressure pot or a heat torch, but I've found a system that works quite well for me to minimize or completely eliminate air bubbles. The first thing I do before even setting up to start crafting is I place both the resin bottle and the hardener bottle (both bottles, part A and B) in hot water. I personally just use the hottest water that comes out of my tap - not boiling, but still hurts to touch. Make sure when you set the bottles in the water, the water level goes all the way to the top of where the resin sits inside the bottle. You can set something heavier on top of the bottles to keep them down if they start to float. Now, while they sit there for 15-20 minutes, get everything else ready. Make sure you warm up your molds and silicone pouring cups too. The idea is to get everything at a warm temperature before casting, eliminating bubbles that come from temperature differences. I've found the easiest way for me to warm up the molds and the pouring cups is by placing them inside a ziploc bag, closing the bag tight to keep water out, and then immersing them in a bowl of hot water, the same as the resin bottles (hottest my tap has to offer, weighing them down with a glass or anything else heavier to keep them submerged). Once I've let them sit for a while in the hot water, I'll take the molds out and quickly but THOROUGHLY make sure they're super dry. If your bag was airtight they shouldn't be wet, just warm, but I still always meticulously check that there isn't a single drop of water on or inside any of the molds or pouring cups. Water droplets WILL lead to air bubbles. Then while the molds and cups are still warm I take the resin and hardner out of the warm water, follow proportion directions while pouring, and then stir using a wooden or silicone stick. Stir constantly and semi-slowly and ONLY in one direction if you can help it, making sure you're scraping the bottom and sides, for at least 5 minutes, depending on what your resin instructions say. Then let it sit for another 5-ish minutes based on your instructions. You add micah powder if you're adding color right around now and stir that in. When it starts to get thick (close to honey consistency) THAT'S the time to pour, if it gets any thicker before you pour it into your molds, it'll start to get too thick too fast while you pour. You want to pour it right before you hit honey consistency - it should be thicker than it started off, but not getting hard to stir. Pour it into your molds (pour slowly) and work quickly to fit lids on etc. Between heating your molds, making sure they're completely dry, stirring slowly and thoroughly, and following the directions for your particular resin, you should be able to eliminate all or most microbubbles!
B**R
Difficult to use, but can have good results
These can be good dice molds if you follow the correct process. I dont have a pressure pot, so if you dont either, here is the best way to make dice with these molds:1. Fill a bowl with the hottest water your tap can run2. Let your resin containers soak in this bowl to warm up3. Put 2.5-3.5 inches of water in a pot and put on the stove at medium heat4. Once your resin is heated in the bowl of water, mix your resin and hardener (do not add color at this step)5. Pull the pot of water off the stove and temp it with a kitchen thermometer. It should be no hotter than 175°F and no colder that 165°F6. Place your resin mixing cup in the hot water (I do this with silicone cups to make sure they can handle the heat) and add your dye to your resin7. Mix the dye int to resin until you have uniform color8. Keeping your resin mixing cup in the water let sit for 1 minute to allow the bubbles to rise9. Use a long stem lighter or a heat gun to VERY BRIEFLY (1-3 seconds) heat the surface of the resin. This will pop the bubbles that rose to the top10. Remove your resin from the water and use pipettes to slowly squeeze your resin into the mold until you see the color pressed up against the lid of the mold11. Shine a flashlight from underneath the mold to see if there are any gaps left in the resin and tilt the mold to float those bubbles out12. Put extra resin on the top of the mold to allow it to flow in in case of shrinkage.Once you allow your resin to fully cure there will probably still be a few bubbles that can cause gaps you will have to sand some excess off of these dice. I use 1500 grit, follow by 3000 grit, 5000 grit then meguiars brand plastix headlight polish. Hopes this helps
M**I
bubbles
So, I am new to this. So I’m still afraid to use the heat gun on it, as i am a bit anxious of damaging the molds. It is hard to tell if it has enough in the mold, and left a huge air bubble where the hole is. i think i’m going to have to practice a lot to get the hang of what works with these to use them proper. This doesn’t come w a syringe and honestly it should. It’s too difficult putting the cap in.
K**A
Redneck fairy godmother
Here i come to save the daaaaaayyyy! Like a redneck fairy godmother that nobody asked for. TIPS . Don't beat it! I know the urge is strong, but resist beating it like teens behind a locked door. Slow and steady stiring with minimal lifting out of the resin is key to less bubbles. Yes you can spend an ungodly amount of money on a vacuum chamber or a pressure pot OR you could use my method and spend $10- $15 on a polishing kit and a lighter. Yup. Thats all you need. Dont bother with the little hole and the pipettes. Slowly pour the resin in the mold with lid off. Fill so that it just slightly goes over the bottom lip that the lid fits in. Slightly. Then leave the top off. Yup you heard me. Leave it off. As bubbles rise use the lighter. Leave it off till its gummy. So about 4 or 5 ish hours. Its a bit messy this way but it works out better in the end. Dont worry if theres a bubble of resin on the lid from the hole. The mold will stretch or you can remove it first. Your choice.Heating the resin while in the bottle can help as well. The rest can be polished and sanded off with the kit. Boom!
A**A
Use Release Spray!
The media could not be loaded. I've used these molds a couple times now, and definitely recommend using a release spray! The molds are very pliable, which makes it easier to pop the finished pieces out, however, since the molds are so thin, you have to be pretty gentle and careful not to tear the molds. I also struggled with getting the resin to set fully in the dies at first. Most of the first batch I'd had to go back and fill deep voids, but was able to get the resin almost totally clear of small trapped bubbles. Enjoy the video of me rolling the final results!
E**N
Overpriced
These moulds work exactly as intended, however after buying I wanted a second set to do more than one set of dice at a time. AliExpress has the exact same moulds for a fraction of the price. I think I payed $6 per mould set with shipping. If you’re ok with waiting a bit longer I definitely recommend buying them there as they preformed the same as the more expensive ones.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
2 weeks ago