Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 310mm x 320mm Compatible for CR-10S Pro or Pro V2, Made in The USA

I've been using a CR-10S for a while now and always used the stock glass bed that came with it. I would just go apply some childrens glue to the bed before doing a print to get good bed adhesion. But I was getting rather annoyed with this process. I have my printer set up to be controlled by octoprint and monitored through a webcam, so it was extremely annoying to have to go in there every time and apply glue after the bed and hot end is already heated before I could remotely send and start a print. If I applied the glue before heating the glue would dry by the time everything heated up and not give good adhesion.This PEI sheet has solved my problems amazingly. No bed prep whatsoever and so far 10 prints have stuck perfectly. And after a print when the bed cools removing the print is very easy. I don't even need to use any tools like I did with the glass and glue method. Plus the glue method would sometimes leave a very messy looking finish, with the PEI it's a nice glossy finish every time.If this product holds up it will probably be one of the best upgrades I've ever done on my 3d printer. It's cheap enough also that replacing it occasionally shouldn't be that big of a deal, but I'm a little worried about how hard the old sheet will be to get off if that time comes lol.

I had persistent issues with prints "welding" to the stock BuildTak build surface on my Raise3D Pro 2. I went through quite a few in just a few months, generally after ripping the surface with a scraper in a desperate effort to get a print off. I tried so many things from printer leveling, to exhaustive tweaking of filament settings. Frustrated, I decided to give the Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet a go. Wow - what a difference. It's like magic: firm hold on prints during printing, and then magic release once the bed cools down. And the quality of layer 1 is stunning - it's glossy with no evidence of lines - doesn't even look like the product of a 3D printer!

I'm a big fan of PEI sheets for 3D printers, they just work. Gizmodorks makes good ones too (I have them on 2 printers). PEI works best for PLA, but also works for PETG, and I have used them with ABS (not this one however). PLA requires nothing, just print normally and the print will stick and pop off when it cools. For PETG, I find that it can stick a bit too well (I use 60°C), but it is usually not a problem unless there is a large surface area that will stick to the bed, and then I hit it with some hairspray as a release agent. One of the benefits of a thick PEI sheet like this, is that you can easily hit it with scotch brite or sandpaper to clean it up, but that does have the downside of dulling the shiny finish. I prefer a bit of a matte finish though anyway. One tip though - when you install these, if your printer has rounded corners, I'd recommend rounding the corners on the PEI sheet as well, since they are sharp and bumping into one can have negative consequences for your knuckles (or so I have heard).

I have purchased a number PEI build surface "stickers" and they have worked out with varying success. With continued use though, most surfaces begin to delaminate from the glue layer that holds them down to the aluminum printer bed-plate. This causes little islands that bubble up and create an uneven build surface.I am most pleased with the GIZMO DORKS surface as it has had no detachment problems and so far, is VASTLY superior to the other PEI textured build stickers I've used.SOME KEY OBSERVATIONS1. First off, this print surface is 'glass-smooth' and this leads to a near mirror-finish to the first layer of 3D objects.2. The attachment of the build surface to my aluminum plate has been EXCELLENT. After months of printing (>400 COVID face shields so far), there is no sign of delamination or build surface bubbling.3. PLA part-adhesion to this build surface has been EXCELLENT. However, like all print surfaces, best results depend on setting the initial layer height set properly.o Too high and you will get poor sticko Too low and the initial layer can become squashed, be very thin, or actually skip and have gaps.4. Cleanliness is important! I wipe-down the surface with 91% isopropyl alcohol BEFORE EVERY PRINT to remove skin oils or other contaminates that can interfere with part adhesion.5. Temperature is also important to good adhesion. With GIZMO DORKS surface and PLA material, I heat the bed to 65 DegC, and run the initial layer nozzle temp in the 205-210 range. After the 1st layer, I reduce nozzle temps to the 190-200 DegC range. You should refine these settings based on your filament maker's recommendations5. Part Removal: A sharp scraper or knife should be avoided at it can scratch or gouge the surface as it does seem to be somewhat. I find that parts are easily removable after letting the build plate cool to near room temperature. A 'dull scrapper' can be carefully used to pry up a part edge if absolutely needed to get the part release started. Heating up the bed once again (after a complete cool-down) can also help free up 'stuck parts'.INSTALLATION NOTES1) Thoroughly clean the base build plate, removing all oils and previous adhesives (91% isopropyl alcohol wipe-down!) prior to attaching GIZMO DORKS surface.2) To help the glue bond between the GIZMO DORKS surface and the build plate, I preheat the build plate prior to installation to about 40 DegC - TAKE CARE SETTING THE TEMP - YOU DON"T WANT TO BURN YOUR SELF!3) Very carefully unroll a small strip (.25 inch) of the protective backing along one edge of the PEI surface. Align it well to the build plate and stick it down. Completely press this 'starting strip' down to your plate pressing out any trapped air before going on. Since the PEI is nearly transparent, one can easy see down to the adhesive layer to inspect for trapped air and work them out to an edge.4) With the edge started, carefully pull more of the backing off to expose another .25-.5 inch strip at a time. Again, carefully press the surface down as you go, being sure to press out all trapped air as you go along - lifting the surface after attachment to get rid of trapped air is difficult but necessary if you can't 'squeeze' the air out to an edge to get rid of it.5) Repeat step 4 until the surface is fully installed. Press and/or use a roller to further affix the GIZM) DORKS surface down on to the build plate.CLOSING COMMENTSI print mostly with PLA but I expect this surface will also do well for PETG base on prior experience with that filament type and other PEI surfaces. I haven't tried ABS or Nylon so can't offer any advise there. So far, this surface has proven to be much more durable that others and has the ideal level of 'stick' (for PLA) with no disengagement from my alum build plate. I just which they offered a 325 x 325 size to cover the last few mm of my plate!Although a little bit more expensive than others, I will definitely buy again!

The media could not be loaded. Want a flexible bed plate, but still want the “glass like” sheen?.. Look no further folks! Gizmodorks pei is your answer!Want unmatched adhesion with no need for glue or hairspray? Gizmodorks!!Does your Bambu labs x1 or P1 seem to go through cold plate stickers or high temp stickers? Ahemmm…gizmodorks!This surface is the cats meow. It holds tight, leaves a glass like shiny surface and keeps on delivering awesome prints!! I’ve used GD stickers on all the printers I’ve had through the years. Buy once, apply, and print for years!! (2yrs of daily prints on the one..)Thanks folks!