Piaa 85115 Superior 112Db 330Hz and 400Hz Twin Tone Bass Horn, Black

What it is: A set of electric horns that sound truck-like (deeper tone) and much louder than other aftermarket horns.Why you need it: Because the stock horns on a 2009 Toyota RAV4 sound like they were sourced from Vespa. Seriously, the stock horns are the lamest horns ever installed on an SUV in the history of all SUV's. As a matter of fact, when you meep-meep'd the stock horns at an animal attempting to cross the road, the animal just turned, glared, and charged the vehicle out of pure annoyance. And that animal was a kitten. Honking the stock horns on the RAV4 is the equivalent of whispering "Hey, just ignore this attempt to get your attention."Why I bought this horn kit.: Because PIAA has a reputation of making some of the best automotive lighting and horn systems in the world. And I needed an effective, attention-grabbing survival tool for dealing with total morons on the road. You know who they are. They are the chud's that text and drive, swerving from lane to lane at 70mph. They are the chuckleheads that haven't figured out how a 4 way stop sign works, or the death-wishers that sail through the red lights while taking a selfie.Top Tip: Make sure the engine has cooled for several hours. Installing these on the RAV4 sport takes some time, but is rather easy.1. Remove the plastic cover in front of the radiator. These use plastic clips. Push the center in, then remove the clips. Reset them for installing the cover.2. Remove the top mounts for the radiator with a socket. Gently push the radiator back towards the engine, and hold it there with a small block of wood or a rolled-up towel.3. Unplug the horn connectors by squeezing the connector, then removing the connectors (there is one for each horn).4. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the bolt for each horn. The bolt head is towards the front of the car, and you have to reach underneath the front bracket to access them. This takes the most time, because it is awkward to get to. Don't drop the bolt. Don't. Drop. The. Bolt.5. Once the stock horns are removed, immediately dispose of them (because they just pussify the RAV4).6. I chose to keep the factory wiring plugs, so I made short jumper wires out of 14 gauge wire with a 1/4 male blade connector on one end and a 1/4" female blade connector on the other. Solder them to prevent corrosion. Plug one end into the factory plug, and the other into the positive connector on the horn.7. Install the included ground wire to the ground connector on the horns. The round connector is bolted to the chassis with the horn mounting bolt.8. Mount the horns with the bolts, but thread them in from the back of the bracket, threading it towards the front of the vehicle.They will install MUCH faster. Angle the horns toward the front of the vehicle so as to provide as much clearance between the radiator and horns as possible (I ended up with about 1.5" inches).9. Test the horns. Rejoice in how much better they sound.10. Bolt in the radiator brackets and install the front cover with the plastic push clips.Summary: Instructions are clear, quality is great, value is well-worth it. Install this kit and live to enjoy another day behind the wheel.

Other Honda Ridgeline owners (@2017 model year) will want to consider upgrading to something like these for the horn installed on their vehicles - a wimpy sounding VWbug style "meep" sound. A truck should sound like a truck and I'm glad I located these to replace the mistake Honda made with the Ridgeline horn. The pictures I've added here hopefully can help others with their install.Here are some instructions for install - compiled notes:Parts list & needed tools/helps:• College hills wiring adapter (Purchased separately from College Hills Honda - important!!)• PIAA sports horn kit off Amazon. Bought for price over the Superior Bass and the sound was still good to me. PIAA website has great sound clips.• Two M6x1.0 bolts about 1.25 inch long (+ extras)• Two nuts, 3 lock washers, and 3 flat washers (+ extras)• One 3/4 inch plastic spacer• WD40• 10mm open end wrench and/or a 10mm ratchet box wrenchEngine bay prep:A. Remove front garnishB. Remove intake tubeUnscrew the four plastic clips (Phillips screwdriver) that hold the air cleaner intake that goes over the radiator on the driver's side. Once the screw portions are removed, pull the clips out of the holes and set them aside. Lift off the upper intake plumbing pieces and set them asideC. Disconnect battery (remove it for better access since it is disconnected anyway.)Loosen and remove the negative wire first with a 10mm wrench or socket, then repeat with the positive wire. When you reinstall, secure the positive first, then the negative (this way you won't accidentally short a wrench between the positive terminal and the truck ground).Loosen the two bolts that hold the battery in place and unhook the battery hold-down hooks. (10mm deep well socket or open-end wrench)Unplug the small electrical connector on the front right of the battery (I think it's a fan to cool the battery). REMOVE or… lift the battery high enough to clear the battery tray and slide the battery over closer to the engine as far as it will go.This should give you enough room to work.D. Remove factory horn - Unplug the OEM horn and unbolt the horn with 10mm socket or wrench (10mm open end wrench and a 10mm ratchet box wrench are noted best) from the OEM bracket and remove the horn.Install notes:• Run a tap or bolt through unused engine bay bracket, M6x1.0• Put the wires on the horns outside the truck, no easy access once mounted.• Place bolt with washer onto first horn, place spacer on bolt, then thread into bracket. I used the spacer to keep the horn away from the body.• Place bolt with second washer onto other horn and place a nut on to secure the bolt to the horn bracket. This method made installing horn onto factory bracket simpler and also provided a little spacing off the factory bracket. Place second horn onto factory bracket, threads facing the firewall.• Slip both grounding lugs over exposed threads, then thread on the final nut and washer, locking it all in place.• Make final connection to factory power wire if not already done.Some notes - Don't mess with the PIAA horn brackets, you risk ruining the horns and they work fine as is.The PIAA horns come with a pair of grounding wires as does the College Hills horn wiring kit. You can use either set as is, but I chose to shorten the wires as they are quite long.The horns are mirror images of each other, so you’ll need to test fit both PIAA horns to the OEM horn bracket to see which one fits best and allows the opening of the horn to point downward the best. There is an aluminum brace that prevents the horn from pointing straight down, but a downward angle is sufficient as the mounting area is well protected from water.Connect the grounding wire to one of the horn terminals (either terminal is fine) and put the loop end of the wire around the bolt you use to attach the first PIAA horn to the OEM horn bracket with a lock washer and nut. I found that a 10mm open end wrench and a 10mm ratchet box wrench worked better than a socket wrench.Repeat the process for the second horn threading the bolt into the nut welded to the unused bracket. The nut will have a good bit of paint on the threads and it will be difficult to thread the bolt, you might want to clear the threads with a tap if you have one or at least thread the bolt into place without the horn to clean the threads.Once both horns are mounted and grounded, simply plug the horn adapter wire into the OEM connector and attach the two wires to the open terminals on both horns.Reinstall battery and test horns.If working, reassemble intake, and garnish.- Make sure you have extra bolts and lock washers for when you drop the one you are trying to get into place. :wink:- Disconnecting the old horn can be a challenge, especially given I bought my car used and it had about 30k miles of dirt and gunk on the bolts. A little WD40 was needed to loosen up the nut on the OEM horn.