Atmor 13kw/240v, 2.25 GPM Tankless Water Heater Electric, Multiple Point-Of-Use Water Heater with Pressure Relief Device, AT-900-13

I used the map, which shows Southern California in the yellow zone, which includes Florida. Unfortunately, in the High Desert in winter, the temperature often goes into the 20's at night when the electricity is 1/5 the cost of daytime. I usually run the dishwasher during these hours. I should have used the blue zone, which includes Idaho. The water sits outside in a tank, and often gets down to the 30's. It then flows into a tank-type propane water heater which heats it sufficiently, then travels under the house more than 50 feet. to the kitchen and to the dishwasher. There is a large quantity of frigid water in this pipe. Modern Energy Star dishwashers don't use enough water per fill for the hot water to reach the dishwasher before it finishes filling. Dishwashers require hot water, above 120 degrees, to allow the chemicals in the detergent to do their job. My intention was to insert this on-demand heater in the hot water line near the dishwasher. To achieve this temperature from the on-demand heater with frigid water, the flow must be cut way down, just above the minimum necessary to turn it on, about .6 GPM. This works fine for the first fill. After that, there is warm water in the water line. The 900 series heater senses this and shuts down, feeding 95-100 degree water to the dishwasher thereafter, which is insufficient. I could feed the dishwasher and on-demand heater from the cold water line, but I don't want to use electricity exclusively to heat the water for the dishwasher and sink. I will move this heater to another location where there is no hot water line, and where warm water at normal flow rates is adequate. I will replace it with a 905 series with "Thermo Boost" which is designed for "preheated water", and has a dimmer-like system (using Triacs) to accept whatever temperature is coming in and (hopefully) raise it to the desired output temperature (subject to its capacity). There is an additional problem with throttling the flow of the 900 series heater to achieve the desired temperature for the dishwasher. Up on the hill, the well pressure varies from 30-50 PSI. A .6 GPM flow rate at 50 PSI is not fast enough at 30 PSI to turn on the 900 series heater. A .6 GPM flow at 30 PSI will be too high at 50 PSI to produce sufficiently hot water for the dishwasher. (Yes, I could install a pressure regulator.) Therefore, if used under normal conditions for normal use, this heater is great, and very inexpensive. To run a dishwasher on a well with ice cold water that may be preheated, you need a more advanced heater that is designed for this purpose.

I do NOT recommend this product. We installed this unit in a shop bathroom about two weeks ago. It worked fine, giving mild warm water (not hot). Today, for no reason and no warning it EXPLODED. Thank the Lord no one was near it when it EXPLODED because it would have hurt someone severely. And thank the Lord my husband heard the bomb because otherwise it would have flooded the shop. Water was everywhere, parts of this unit were everywhere. SCARY! Then I get on here and see that it's happened before! And Atmor's response indicates a pressure reducer is supposed to be installed on the unit at time of installation.... my question, if that part is so important why doesn't the unit come with on already on it??? The water pressure in this shop is about 35-40 lbs. Same water line feeds our house, three hydrants 4 cattle waters.I mean this thing EXPLODED like a bomb! And sorry, Atmoor, I do not want your product, there will be no discussing this problem. I would rather save someone's life. This $140 minor appliance should NOT be so dangerous!

I'm a single person using this, and so far, it works for me. I have it setup centrally in the basement for all fixtures, and since I only use 1 fixture at at time, it has been working out. I have an eco-smart shower head, so warm and hot showers are not an issue, even though this unit was not designed for that. I have it set on HIGH.HEAT LEVEL COMPARISONS: This unit has 3 settings. LOW - With the faucet wide open on hot, it's warm and has a weak flow. MEDIUM - With the faucet wide open on hot, it's actually hot and flows almost normally. HIGH - This is the best setting. With the faucet wide open on hot, it is STEAMY hot and has a normal flow rate. I'm actually able to open my faucet in the middle (50/50 cold/hot) and its perfect.I am located in the midwest if you are looking at the water temp chart for what to expect with their different models. For a typical bath/shower application, a model that exceeds or meets a minimum of 1.5 Gpm is what you will want. Those start at 40 amps.CONS:1) You had to perforate the plastic to get the wiring through. It was not done at the factory, and you have to cut into the side of it if you want the unit flush to the wall. If you have the wiring come through the wall, it works just fine, but that is not most people's configuration.2) The hot and cold are reversed, so I had to criss cross my plumbing to accommodate it. The hot is normally on the right side, but on this unit, it's on the left. Good thing I had braided stainless steel hoses.3) The ground cable they provide has a ring terminal on the end. It doesn't even fit into the ground part of the terminal block without bending the sides.4) It can take up to 15 seconds to get hot water at any of the taps, and nearly 30 seconds for consistency, but once you are there, it it is hot, hot, hot until you turn it off.In spite of all these cons, I was able to work around it, get it installed, and use it as we all know.NOTE: The lights built into the rocker switches only illuminate when the unit is in-use.I hope this helps someone with their buying decision. Thanks!--------UPDATE: It has been 2 months since it has been installed and it is still working. - 9/28/2018