Hooke Road Overhead 6-Switch Pod Panel w/Control & Source System for 2011-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK & Unlimited

Wonderful upgrade, especially because it already came pre-wired which made it very easy on the installation

Purchased this for my 2013 JKUR.This switch pod and relay box was approximately $90 when I purchased. Other similar products were anywhere from $130 to $600. The reviews were mixed but I decided to take a chance on it anyway. It wasn't without its challenges but I'm glad I decided to give it a try. Let me walk you through the pros and cons and the challenges I had during install.Pros:-Cheapest switch pod/relay box combo for a JK on Amazon when I purchased.-Wire lengths were just right after figuring out the best way to route them.-Comes with everything you need except one thing (fuse tap).Cons:-Instructions were decent, but flawed.-Kit I received didn't quite match the pictures in the Amazon listing.-Bracket that holds it to the footman loop is not the greatest design. It makes it extremely difficult to loop the bungee through for my sun shade. However, many competing products use the same design.-QA on the assembly of the switch pod could use some work. I found some defects in workmanship which I outline below.-There is no good way to make the front edge of the switch pod closest to the windshield stick. I even put in better two-sided tape. The best way is to use screws which I am hesitant to do. I may end up doing that anyway.Let's start with what comes in the kit. I have included a couple of pictures showing exactly what I received. What is missing that is included in the Amazon listing is the terminal box and crimp on Y connectors. You don't really need them but it would have been nice to have.If you look closely at the instructions, they show the relay box mounted on the driver side near the firewall. On my JK, that is where one of my horns in mounted. I was initially bummed thinking I had to remove it to get this to fit. I then came back to this Amazon listing and noticed one of the pictures in the listing has it mounted about a foot forward from there. I didn't realize that you can flip the bracket upside down and it will fit there nicely. No need to remove the horn. It would have been nice if this option had been noted in the instructions.It took me a couple of attempts to run the wire harness up to the mirror. I routed it inefficiently the first time and there wasn't enough length. After adjusting the route, the length was perfect. The key for me was making sure I went straight from the firewall grommet up to the pillar. I originally had it routed under a bracket before going up. That little bit was enough to cause problems.The relay box has a wire that connects to ACC. If you want the switches to be powered all of the time, you could attach that wire to the battery along with the main power lead. However, if you, like me, want it to be connected to ACC power then you are going to have to splice into a wire or use a fuse tap. I chose a fuse tap and I chose M7 in the ACC position. M7 powers the rear electrical outlet. I had to use a dremel to create a path for the wire to get into the fuse box. I suggest some silicon to seal it up. Other kits come with the fuse tap. This one does not. It would be nice if it did, but you can get one for just a couple dollars so I wasn't too worried after paying significantly less for this kit.I really don't care for the bracket/clamp design over the footman loop. I have seen other competing pods come with a bracket that mounts between the footman loop and the body using the footman loop screws. This would be preferred and I don't think it would be much additional cost, if any. I have a design in mind and I might attempt to make it myself so that the footman loop remains open. Basically, the design is a strip of metal that follows the under edge of the sides of the footman loop but flare out right where the screws go into the switch pod. There would be holes for the screws that align with the holes in the top of the switch pod. I may also cut some notches so that small zip ties can be used to even better secure the bracket to the footman loop right next to the screw holes. I think this type of bracket could also solve the problem of the front edge of the switch pod not staying secured with the two-sided tape.This kit also does not come with stickers to label your switches. Again, I am okay with this. You can get them for only a few dollars off of ebay. Personally, I don't like the pre-made options so I plan to get some sticker sheets, design my own, and print them.Lastly, there was a problem once I got it all wired up and mounted. When I turned on all of the switches for the first time, one of them didn't light up. At first I thought the switch was defective. Upon closer examination, someone did a poor job crimping the connector on the positive lead to that switch. They crimped insulation only. I didn't have any connectors of that size handy so I just soldered the wire to the existing connector. After that it lit right up.Overall I am happy with this purchase. I saved a good amount of money but I did have to work through incomplete instructions and a QA issue. Those two issues are worth 1 star to me. I hope this review has been helpful for you.

This is not like all the other cheap junk on Amazon!! Mine had instructions with photos of a real Jeep JK. Looks super slick and well made. This would be a value at $200.00.If it's is just window dressing I'll edit this reviw,but good luck so far.

You get what you pay for.The fuse/relay box are nice, wiring harness is nice, switches are ok. Fitment of the switch box sucks.It is a pain to tighten the screws by the weather seal (realistically you can’t torque anything). The “tape” held on for about 5 seconds before it came free. Total joke. They could have extended the flat part to reach the trim by the glass and grab onto that and this would have been great... tape?? Not sure how that is expected to hold up in the summer heat. 1” more of flat metal with a c-Chanel to grab the trim would have solved this and made a solid product.Not stoked- I should have started at the switch box and worked back to the fuse box.... instead I started at the fuse box and worked to the switch... so I’ll keep it for the sake of not wasting another hour re fishing everything through grommets.12/5/19 Update- half of the switch lights have stopped working. Perusing better options... this thing is terrible.

It doesn't fit as flush as I'd like, maybe I did something wrong, but I don't think so. One of the switches is kinda "twitchy", gotta wiggle it some to turn on. Overall though I'm really enjoying this thing, it works as expected (other than the wiggle switch)

was an issue with the readout numbers. Replace it immediately, and it now works great

One of the wires was already broken.Had to hardware could not use the plug

First thing I noticed when opening the box is that this was obviously a customer return with scratches and a dent. It's going on a trail jeep, so I wasn't too worried about that. Install under the hood went fairly quickly, but there were definitely problems when installing the switches themselves. The wires themselves are JUST long enough to plug in which becomes a headache when installing the switch pod. The switch pod has 2 tiny weld nuts, but neither one were aligned, so I tried zip ties instead. I then added some tapping screws to get it to sit right, but it really doesn't look great. I have a short in one of the switches now too somewhere between switch and fuse. Overall, this thing is not the quality I associate with Hooke. I'd return it, but I just don't feel like ripping it all back out and having holes in the trim where I screwed in the pod.