MARINE - 1 Gallon Penetrating Wood Sealer, Waterproofer & Stain. Water-Based, Ultra-low VOC formula for high-moisture areas to protect wood docks, decks, piers & retaining walls.

Honestly, I didn’t know what to think. There are several negative reviews, several positive, which left me in a bit of a lurch. Do I risk it and potentially regret it, or will I be a lucky one? I went ahead and pulled the trigger and couldn’t be happier. I followed the directions to a “T”, bought the clear and then purchased the black tint separately. This stuff goes on like a dream. It’s is a bit watery, which the green painting tape didn’t completely guard against, but being water based made for pretty easy cleanup. I’ll try the upgraded paint block tape next time. We’ve had a hard rain today and this stuff had performed flawlessly. Water beads up and runs right off, the wood fibers seem very well protected/sealed, nothing to complain about as far as adhesion goes. Time will tell if it lives up to its stated duration. Honestly though, it goes on so easy and looks so good, I’m not opposed to having to reapply earlier if needed.

I purchased this product to refinish my small teak table for our patio and two wine barrels I’m restoring. I sanded the old finish for the table with 150 grit paper followed by a finish sanding using 220 grit. I used a small synthetic brush to apply the product. Following the instructions I applied the first coat being careful not to apply too much to avoid ponding. It went on smoothly, I applied a second coat after 15 minutes or so, as instructed on the label. It restored the teak to the original color and beauty. I was able to refinish the top of one of my barrels using the same procedures, except only one sanding with the 150 grit. It turned out great. It was easy to clean the brush as this is a water based product. I found Seal-Once to be a great value for the money. Time will tell how durable it is but I’m confident it will be.

Absolutely wonderful product. I was skeptical at first to purchase this item, considering I've always purchased deck stain at the local box stores. I'm so very glad I did! Works very well, easy to apply & appears is so much better than the name brand stains that only last about 3 years top! We'll see in a couple of years if the 10 years advertised holds up to the hype! Addendum: added photos and a note that 2 coats applied and still have over 1/3 of 5 gal bucket left over. The difference of shading is because of my poor power washing. Did it at night.

Product worked well. I used sprayer on deck boards and then immediately back-brushed the sealer to work it into the very weathered boards of my deck. Surprised by the milky white color of the “clear” sealer I bought, but all the white disappeared within 10 minutes of my brushing. Deck looked wonderfully different when I finished, and sealer clearly worked: water beaded up on boards when it rained a few days later.. Only problem was that one of the upside down cans leaked in the carton despite the metal clasps, making a small mess.

All of my reviews are of things I buy for myself. I do not accept freebies or anything in exchange for my reviews. Period. The Marine stain-sealer works very good. It has good coverage, goes on easily and quickly and the result is long lasting and looks great. It's my go-to stain-sealer now. I use it on my decks instead of the nano type. I've read many of the reviews and throughout many of them the same theme comes up, lack of proper wood prep or not following instructions. Preoprly prepared wood and follwing instruction will provide you with one of the best stain and sealer applications of any product including the top tier name brands. The wood. If the wood isn't properly prepared then no matter what you put on it will fail prematurely. Putting any stain and selaer on new bought wood is a mistake unless you first clean it and sand it. The wood you buy often has a waxy coating on it and sometimes anti-mold agents put on it. If all you try to do is buy new wood for your deck or project and then just stain and seal it, it won't last. Clean the new wood first, it's easy and you can use a dilution of bleach, water and dawn dish soap. Use a deck brush to scrub the wood and then rinse it off real good. The let it dry for at least two days, 3 or 4 days if it's humid or not really warm outside. If you don't do this the stain and sealer will not take. Before you apply the stain-sealer, test for penetration. When you apply a small amount it should soak right into the wood. If it sits on top, it's not going to work, nothing else will either. If you are using it on a deck, sand it even after cleaning the boards. Then just before you sapply, wipe the boards with a damp clean rag. Do not rely on using an air compressor or brush to get the sanding dust off. The rag should be just damp, not soaking. Let the boards dry for a few minutes and then apply the stain-sealer. It should soak right into to wood. This coat should not be heavy, but rather a light to medium light coart. You should not see shine on the surface. If you do, that means the stain-sealer isn't penetrating and you didn't prepare the wood correctly. On a 16' typical deck board, start from one end and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. Go back to where you started to put on the secnd coat. This will be a light coat and it might seem shiny for just a short time. Don't use a heavy coat or it will sit on top and come off ahwn it wears or water gets on it. Curing. Let it cure. 2 days is best. Planning for this time is essential. If you need to use the deck then do part of it and then block that area off. Rotate areas you can use vs areas that need to cure. When to apply. After the morning sun is up and temps are up. Applying stain-sealer while the air has a lot of humidity is bad practice. Same with trying to finish some boards late in the afternoon unless your area is still nice and warm with low humidity. Decks or docks near or over water. The air is full of humidity so only aply at the height of the warm part of the day. Many boards on docks have been previous treated with oily sealers. Sorry, you'll never get that stuff off the boards so your choice is to use a similar sealer because nothing else will hold up. So clean your dock boards really good. The problem is that anything you use to clean much be ok if it gets into the water or can drain into the water. That means if the wood was treated with any oily type selaer nothing you can use that is safe for the water will also take off the previous oily sealer. Use the right product for the job. Brushes. Amazingly, some of the cheap synthetic brushed worked far better than expensive name brand brushes. The more expensive brush load up too much sealer and that isn't what you want. You want the sealer to run off and out of the brush so you can control how much goes on the wood. Trying to spread the sealer using the brush is a waste of time and leads to a bad result. Light coats. Clean-up. Dawn dish soap applied directly to the brush on both sides and then just a little water to let it suds up. Work the brush in a stainless steel pan back and forth really good. The start rinsing. Keep rinsing until thre are no more suds and the water runs clear. SHake the brush and let dry. Do that and just slightly beding the bristles before next use is like a new brush. Prep, prep, prep. You only stain-seal once every few years, don't skimp on the prep.

The product is fine, but you lose an appreciable portion because -my single and 4 gallon containers arrived with a thick, crust of what appears to be pigment at the bottom. Vigorous shaking and stirring makes little difference. As the product level reaches towards the bottom of the can, the colour brightens to White. I asked their technical support for advice and received nothing useful, just dodging whether the items received were old stock and whether I ought to claim a replacement. Received more information on how experienced their expert was, than how to remedy the problem. Being off shore means I cannot examine the product and return it if next supplies are similar.

One of the best products I found for water proofing wood. Just amazing. And super easy to apply.

It isn't cheap but far less expensive than rebuilding or repairing my sea side deck. As an 80 year old when I say that it is easy to apply, it must be super easy. The twenty minute drying time between coats is a real boon; by the time you get to the end of the project with the first coat, you can immediately start applying the second without doing a clean-up. The salt ocean air and the rain from the Japanese current are tough on wood so a marine finish is the way to go.

Came a clumpy mess, like it was left out in the winter or was stored incorrectly. Can't even stir it.

Excellent product, coverage is very good. No smell, no mess, I will buy it again!

Used it this week on logs I had harvested from the sea at our cottage; so they are dried out and ready to use as fence posts, The 4" & 5" diameter (6'00" long) logs are now 2'00" into the ground where I hope this coating will last for another 30 years. The ones I replaced I had treated with creosote - now now available unfortunately, and was about 10% of the cost of this stuff ! I'm frankly not fully convinced that this stuff penetrated the wood in the way that creosote does. But I am 91 and probably wont know how long it does last !