DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw with Rolling Stand, 32-1/2-Inch Rip Capacity (DWE7491RS)

I purchased this saw to replace my aging Skil table saw. Just in time too with this pandemic going on. I need to construct an Ark in case the world ends (again) in a horrible shower lasting 40 days and 40 nights.Assembly:The saw arrived in a heavy back-breaking box. All contents were packed safely and I noted no damage, aside from my back. The saw itself was largely assembled with only the fence to deal with and that was easy. It is stored upside down on the rails. Support it with one hand then unlatch the levers on both sides.Let it fall gently onto your hand, not the floor, where you will notice the notches on both ends. Those notches mate to pegs on the rails. There are 3 positions. One on the left and two on the right. The first position on the right closest to the blade will allow a maximum rip of 24 inches. The second position will allow maximum rip of 32 inches.The stand is where you will spend most of your time during assembly. A nice touch is that the nuts and bolts come separated and labeled in plastic bags. Take your time and follow the diagram which I found to be accurate and straightforward.One note - pay attention to where the washers go. They come slipped into the bolt and secured by the nuts. This gives the impression that all 3 are needed to assemble a specific part when in fact only the nut and bolt is needed and the washer is used elsewhere. Again, take your time and follow the manual, which I'm glad by the way was not written by an angry 5 year old.When the stand is done, take the table saw and gently/carefully place it upside down on any soft surface except your wife's expensive rug. Potential marriage-breaker, that one.Next, grab the stand and place it upside down on the saw. The DeWalt logo on the stand and the logo on the table saw MUST be on the same side. Otherwise the universe will implodeTighten the 4 nuts that attach the stand to the saw. When done, find a creative and safe way to turn this fantastic creation right side up.Adjustments:Out of the box, the blade was already set up at a perfect 90 degrees. No need to adjust the stop. The 45 degree stop was off just slightly. I'm guessing 44.359 degrees. I tried to loosen the stop but it looks like it was torqued down by a machine set incorrectly or an employee wanting to play a joke on an unlucky customer. Haha that unlucky customer would be me. Not so funny really. I'll shoot some lubricant on the bolt and claim my victory later.The only other adjustments I made was to align the fence parallel to the blade and correct the measurement marker on the fence rail just above the power button. To adjust the fence, raise the blade to its uppermost position then slide the fence so that it makes contact with the blade. At this point, you will know if it needs adjustment. If it does, back the fence off the blade a bit, maybe 1/16th of an inch and lock the rail. Now, loosen one of the pegs on the rail that the fence is attached to. Gently slide the rail on the one side with your finger that you loosened. Stop and tighten the peg when the fence touches the blade. There is a gap on the opposite side of the fence and blade. We shall correct this! Loosen the opposite peg and gently slide the fence so that the fence touches the blade. There should now be even contact with the blade and fence through the entire diameter of the blade.Now your measurement marker. It should be at 0 inches. If not, loosen the screws, then move the plastic marker so that it's at 0 then tighten.Remember. There are 3 positions that the fence can sit on. You will need to make sure the fence is parallel on all positions. So adjust accordingly if needed.As for me, I don't think I will ever place the fence on the left side of the table nor on the furthest position on the right side so I didn't bother with checking parallel on those positions.See how easily I justified my laziness?Accuracy:I set the fence at 20 inches from the blade and ripped a sheet of 3/4" OSB plywood. When I was done, I measured all along the length of the piece. Everything I measured was spot on at 20 inches. Very happy about that! Almost all of my cuts will be at 90 degrees so I am good for now.Power:So far I've only ripped 3/4 inch plywood and crosscut a few 2x4 pieces. It cut through them like a hot knife through butter. Actually, does anyone really use a hot knife to cut butter? How do you heat up the knife? A torch? A forge? Boil it? Seems like a lot of work and potentially dangerous.Observations and notes:The stand is sturdy. Nothing much to say other than it did not collapse on itself even with a thick sheet of plywood on it. The levers to fold the legs in and out are genius! I did not mess with the default blade. I immediately replaced it with a 60 tooth Diablo blade and the cuts are amazingly smooth. The included push stick is a nice touch and it stores nicely on the back of the fence. Another nice touch is the pull down support piece on the fence to support your workpiece for wide cuts.The miter gauge is umm, how shall I say, the only blemish on this beautiful thing. Although lately this seems to be a cost-cutting measure on most saws on the market. There is a bit of wobble when it sits on the track. Some suggest using tape to eliminate the gap. In all honesty, the miter gauge should be fine for my purposes. It's a decent last-second weapon to fend off pesky family members or neighbors looking to disturb you from spending quality time with this table saw.Lastly, when I was swapping out the blades, I noticed that the spindle that the blade attaches to had a raised indentation. A manufacturing defect perhaps. I took a small sheet of 200 grit sandpaper, wrapped it around a thin flat stick and sanded it down carefully. I figured this little bump on the spindle would cause the blade to wobble ever so slightly so my OCD dictated that I smooth it down.Overall, amazing saw and quite an upgrade from my older Skil saw.

I've had this table saw for over two years and have used it for numerous projects with great success. There are a lot of really nice and handy features that make using it a lot easier. Dewalt did a really good job of providing storage for the saw's accessories. For instance, the push stick stores on the back side of the fence making it easy to use and store. There's a place on the back of the saw for the miter gauge that's easy to access. I particularly like the way Dewalt stores the guide fence. It's stored below the table which keeps it out of the way when you are storing the saw.The only disappointing aspect of the saw is the stand that comes with it. It has four legs that need to be individually extended and the needing the saw to pulled upright. While it does provide a solid base for the saw, it really impedes the portability of the saw. To move it from one jobsite location to another, the saw first needs to be put in its storage configuration, moved to the new location and then go through the set process again. Dewalt makes a collapsible stand for their miter saws that allows the saw to be easily moved from one location to another. Unfortunately, there isn't one available for their table saws.

Extremely impresses with the build quality.Pros:- Great for small garage/shed workshops- MAJOR upgrade over my 10" Delta Bench-top table saw.- Able to make 24in rip cuts (and up to 32.5 inch rip cuts) on plywood with ease.- Very sturdy base- Stand collapses for portability and storage.- Quick jobsite or home shop setup- Storage for included Push-stick.- Built in storage for anti-kickback pawls, blade guard and/or riving knife- Can use 8 inch dado set stack up to 13/16" thickCons:- Some assembly required; doable by 1 person, but a second person helping is much easier.Summary: I highly recommend. I would purchase it again... wish I would have purchased it sooner.I've heard some claim that the motor is slow to come up to speed. This power tool as many others do best on a dedicated circuit. Meaning don't overload your breaker trying to run multiple tools, dust collector, compressor, AC, heater or the likes all on the same circuit... Additionally, these power-tools don't like extension cords that are underrated. I.e. if you are going to use and extension cord, use at least a 20amp cord.Note: Purchased on sale for $509 Nov 2024- Miter is decent but you may want to upgrade.