Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Gallon

I have used another product for a number of years dealing with rust as it occurs on a Freighliner chassis and tow gear and things. I've been surprised at how well it has worked. This product claims to convert rust in the same way but is water based instead of oil based. was a little skeptical about this being a water based product but read some reviews by professional restoration types on other websites that sounded excellent so gave it a try. First, water cleanup is definitely a welcome change. As to the product, the reviews of its long term effectiveness were good. I have no reason to doubt them but haven't used it long enough to confirm them, I have used it in a number of places over the past couple of months and been pleased with the result whether significant preparation was needed on heavy rust or just normal maintenance on light rust as it begins to occur. Follow the directions, including the additional coats indicated by the colors it presents as it dries and I think you will like the results. It will dry to a durable deep black finish somewhere between gloss and semi-gloss. It serves as a primer for paint at that point although the finish looks nice enough, even when applied with a brush ,that the only reason I think I'll paint is to make the adjacent surfaces look as nice as this turns out. I'm even considering just using this although it would make for an expensive paint where rust treatment isn't required. I did some black enameled panels where there was rust I brushed out in a few place and no rust in other places. I coated the whole panel and it looks nice and uniform in the previously rusted areas as well as the rest of the panel. I will definitely be purchasing more of this.

So Far, Very Impressed !! Pick up a screwdriver or paint scraper, wire brush, foam brush, small empty container and neoprene gloves as it's sticky if you get it on you. Pour a little out into a small container (a little goes a long way) and apply to the rusted area. DO NOT POUR UNUSED MATERIAL BACK INTO THE NEW CONTAINER, It will contaminate the jug.I used a product in the late 80's or early 90's on my tailgate on a Ford Ranger that started to rust. It had a different name but it also went on like milk, then turned Black. I've purchased other converters since then that seemed "watered down" and didn't work nearly as effective. I assumed it had something to do with environmental or health concerns as to why I couldn't find it. It was of a different name but this is the same stuff. Worked wonders then, after two coats. It's not passed the test of time yet however, I have used it on my trailer and spots under my truck.This is environmentally friendly, non-toxic, non-corrosive, applies easily. I have nothing bad to say about it so far. Make sure you get all the loose rust off but NOT down to bare metal. It needs a little rust to stick. I had some drip onto the paint on my trailer, no big deal but it did "alter" the color of the paint. On bare metal, it seems to leave a film coating that comes off with my finger nail but over rust, you would have to sand it off. Very glad I found this rust converter again, It works GREAT. I see so many vehicles with rust destroying their cars in Pennsylvania snow/salt state. I can't believe drivers are unaware of this solution, after all, a smaller black patch may not look the best but a larger patch of rust looks much worse and that's where your small rust spot is headed.This may not be a "Professional" repair but it's also not at a "Professional repair cost". Sure, $53 is a lot of money but this stuff works and very easy to apply and over-all, its much less expensive to apply this than to ignore your rust spot. So easy anyone can do this and a gallon goes a long way. Even if you only did nothing to the rust and just applied it over the rust you would be much farther ahead. But if you do that, you'd have to wait until more of the rust flaked off (because it will if you don't first remove the flaking) but apply a little more over where it flaked off and your good to go. Also, if there are "paint bubbles" where rust is developing under the paint, remove the bubble, you will see rust under there. Apply Corroseal. I would highly recommend you get in there with a screwdriver without much pressure and remove the loose stuff and maybe go over it with a wire brush, clean the dust off, dry the area and apply, that's it and your resale value will show the difference as a small patch of this is better than a large patch of rust...You can also paint over this if you want, but you will still the area because it will not have the smooth texture of new paint, it will just hide it a little. Don't forget your undercarriage. If you live in a snow belt state and you have no rust yet, Wash the underside once a week but eventually a stone will break the paint seal and rust will start.

This stuff is awesome! I got it to restore a truck frame but have used on countless other things. Seals and becomes rock hard and then just paint over. Make sure you follow directions though! If it is still purple then it didn't work and you need to apply more! As with anything like this, prep is key!

This is pretty good. I had to put some on a cancerous part of my Jeep where the rear wheel well meets the frame. It is a milky-white color, and is a little more viscous than milk itself - think buttermilk. It goes on easy enough, but it is runny and won't stay put if layered in any sort of thickness. Don't put it in a cheap dollar-store spray bottle unless you want it everywhere, get something better. But understand that you won't be storing it in that spray bottle because this stuff dries up like lacquer and will freeze and clog the sprayer - hence my use of the dollar-store variety. On second thought I should have used a sponge-tip paintbrush applicator, that would work perfect for this. It works great once on the part, I first took a hammer to knock off the gobs of rust flaking off to get to a solid surface. It started to turn black after 5 minutes, and only got darker. 15 mins in it was pretty much done, and starting to dry. I let it dry overnight and it formed a good coating that should survive this winter, until I can get under there to repair it properly.

Exactly as described. The rust is gone and a hard, tuff surface is left. Sometimes auto body rust pits need treated. Not bad enough to replace the metal, but the rust must be stopped. This does just that. Stops the rust and allows repairs with body filler. A must have for auto resoration.