ORIONHCCA152 High Performance 15” Competition Grade Car Subwoofer, 10000W Max Power, 2500W RMS, Dual 2 Ohms, 4” Voice Coil – Powerful Black Coil Subwoofer for Cars, Trucks, Jeeps. Sold Individually.

I bought two of these with a HCCA 8000.1 amp. The amp is running at 2 ohms so these are getting around 2300 watts each. I put them in a 99 camery. The box takes up the entire trunk. You definitely will need box space and power to run these properly! I've got 2 XS Power 3100ds in the spare wheel well, 4 ott power wire and. 300 amp alt from Ohio Generator and the big 3 done. With the stock alt and extra batteries I haven't had a problem with voltage dropping, but I only turn them up full blast for maybe a minute or two maybe 5-6 times a day. At night with the headlights on, the voltage drops in 5 minutes to point where I need to keep the system at normal listening levels. You will need at least one extra battery per speaker. The voice coil can bed swapped out and you can recone the woofer if you blow it. The electrical alone to run the subs including batteries and alt was $1600. These things are incredibly loud! And I mean LOUD! And did I say they hit hard? They hit VERY hard! The sound pressure alone feels like I'm swimming in 15-20 feet of water. I work in a shop and it rattles both semi truck garage doors and all the aluminum siding in the front of the shop!Edit:3 months later I blew thiese up. Each one took 1,000 watts more than recommended for 3 months. I won a car stereo competition with these in the trunk of my 99' camery with 145.1 db. After that I ant out celebrating and had the system up full blast playing bass music for 25 minutes. I usually listen to it full volume for 10-15 minutes. That's about as much as I can take. I smelled burning voice coil for about 3 minutes before they blew. I messed up on the ohms and bough I was giving them 4,000 watts but was really giving them 7,000 watts. These things are beasts! I bought recone kits and am taking my car to Slamology next month to compete. The price is fantastic for what you get with these! I'd definitely buy them again!10 months later.I decided to rework the box at the suggestion of one of my teammates. With the port facing the trunk, it was beating the hell out of the back of my car. My trunk would literally do the wave. After filling in all the holes (places that OEM wire was run around the taillights) with chunks of foam and filling in all the small cracks in between the trunk lid and where it it welded to the frame with silicone and sound deadening my entire trunk, there was just too much sound pressure inside the trunk to get rid of all the rattles and vibration. I flipped the box around so the speakers and port faced into the car with the back seats down. After this some of the rattles disappeared but the frequency range of the subs dropped off. Before it would go from about the mid 40s to the 20s where I couldn't here it anymore. Now it was about 37-25 (box being tuned to about 36-37hz). I didn't want to spray foam the box into place so I chopped up a memory foam mattress and shoved it in all around the box until it was sealed off and holy cow did that make a difference. The sound pressure inside the car more than doubled. It hit all the low notes from the mid 20s to around 90-100hz with a relitivly flat response unlike before and sounds much much better now. I went from doing 142.5 on music to 145.8. I did 145.5 on a burp last comp, but wasn't able to do a burp this time. If you've got these in a trunk, I'd recommend facing them Ito the cab with the seats down and sealing them off with a memory foam mattress.The white stuff around the box is the memory foam mattress.

This thing is an absolute monster. If you think youve had beefy subwoofers in the past, this thing will make you reconsider what you thought beefy was. Its so loud, and sounds so good, and Im only on a week of breaking it in. It doesnt have the SQL of a JL Audio W7, but it is definitely louder, and all in all still sounds absolutely awesome. And yes I have listened to both, my brother has a W7 12. This HCCA hits those super low notes that you didnt even know existed in songs that just shake the whole car, and the mids are so loud that it rattled my rear view mirror loose. Dont forget Im only talking about one of these, and I have it in my old school Cadillac, not a small car.However you need to take in to consideration having a box built for the sub. Having the right box is key. I had a box built to the specifications in the manual, and WOW this thing thunders. One thing though. Make sure that your car can produce enough power to support the amp that youll need to drive this beast, cause its a hungry one. But its a good hungry that makes you happy.P.S. I would recommend sound dampening your trunk if you put one of these in there. This thing will shake your car apart, and no, Im not joking.

Once I got the amp tuned properly the speaker sounds amazing. Hit harder than my 2 Kicker 12’s L7.

Great

Arrived brand new as described. This thing is massive and just quality. I have it in a custom box made for it and pushed by a measly Smart 3K Bass and it absolutely slams. With all my gains set with an oscilloscope properly and max being volume 25 I can’t really take it past 15-17 is enough to make the rear window flex like it’s gonna blow out. It does need power so I have and extra XS battery and also a 3K farad cap.All in all quality product and a responsive seller. A+

These subwoofers are ok but I would not buy again. These are strictly SPL subs. They are loud, and they can handle abuse, but the sound quality isnt there. I have 1 15” paired with the HCCA 3k amp. One month later and I’m looking at a different set up. This subwoofer struggled below 30 hz and that’s with a gately box built to spec. If you’re going to run 1 sub only, you’re going to want something that can handle power AND high sound quality.

These 10-in subwoofers are very clean sounding and stronger than the 10-in massive hippo Earth shaking Bass

Has great sound quality. Gets every wattage it says