Bonide Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx, 32 oz Concentrate, Year Long Protection and Bug Killer

We've tried every remedy out there. I use lots of formulas, lots of products, natural and otherwise. What they don't tell you on the label is that this is the only thing that officially gets rid of fungus gnats. And it's amazing! We've shared this on every gardening group we're in and they've had the same results. We use them on indoor and outdoor potted plants and its' the only thing that works. I've been asked many times what rate to use so I thought i'd do it here for you.For potted plants, to get rid of fungus gnats and larve, mix 0.5oz per gallon. Water just like normal. Repeat no more than 2-3 times, and make sure you give it at least a week or two between treatments.We've stopped some serious infestations that were moving within our house. We have over 45 indoor plants and we've gotten rid of multiple infestations (mainly due to buying plants from stores and coming home with infested soil)I've also had success with Aphids and whiteflies outdoors on our trees. I use them on Aspens and 3 varieties of pine trees. Follow the instructions and it's effective. I also use it as a foliar spray with the ortho dial n spray, but this product's magic is in the soil. If you're looking for folier applications, there are other products I would rotate in.

Our landscape company pointed out that our azaleas had lace bugs and they gave us a proposal to treat them for almost $100. That price seemed ridiculous, so I asked a local expert what he would use, and he told me to use this product in early spring before the azaleas typically bloom. I followed the instructions and hoped for the best. Less than two weeks later, we noticed new, healthy green growth! If you look at the picture, the splotchy leaves are the leaves that have been affected by lace bugs since last year, and the new leaves are bright and clear green. I did not expect such quick results, and it was a simple-to-use bargain compared to what the landscape co wanted to charge. We have 4 separate azaleas and each one looks like the one in the photo; all 4 responded well to the one-time treatment.

We have about 20 hemlocks on our lot, ranging from me-height youngsters to 30+ feet adults. A few springs ago, it looked like someone had sprinkled mini-popcorn on the branches: wooly ageldids in their protective coats, busily sucking juices from every available needle. After several applications of the Bonide liquid, the little punks have virtually disappeared. Last year, only one tree had a (much-reduced) resurgent population. Repeat dose to follow. The instructions are clear, and mixing the treatment with water is so simple a Congressman could do it. And the root-drench approach means you don't have to muck about with sprayers or ladders. Good product (other brands may also work well, but I have not experimeted).

My friend recommended this product to me. I’ve treated my fruit trees but still haven’t gotten to the first producing season. I’ll follow up later.My crepe myrtle trees had some kind of insect that was causing a black mold and the outer bard was peeling off. It wasn’t recommended for crepe myrtles but I decided to try it. Within a couple of weeks the insects and black mold were gone with no damage to the trees.

I have some bushes that get leaf scale quite easily, which is difficult to combat. Environmentalists will tell you to use natural products (instead of chemicals), such as oils, soaps and the like. I've tried contact insecticides but scale is difficult to kill with them as the scale forms a waxy coating that protects them will they suck the juices out of the leaves. I prefer a systemic insecticide which is absorbed by the plant and ends up in those plant "juices" that the scale feeds on. However, a systemic insecticide ends up in all the plant tissues, including the pollen -- which will kill bees. Doing everything to protect bee colonies is becoming very important as bee population has shrunk by 50% or more in the past number of years and we rely on bees for pollinating crops that we use for food. It is a major problem, so I am very careful about applying a systemic. I wait until all flowering is done so bees and other pollinators will not be affected. Prior to flowering I will use natural materials such as Neem oil if I have a bad case of scale.Now to performance. I had residual scale this spring, and waited till flowering was over with. I applied per instructions, and it is obvious that it killed the scale, as new leaf growth for the past 3 months shows no sign of scale (which it would have by now had the scale lived). Great product, economical compared to alternatives.