[7500mAh] Battery for iPhone 6S (2025 New Version), Conqto New Upgraded Higher Capacity 0 Cycle Battery Replacement for iPhone 6S Model A1633, A1688, A1700 with Complete Professional Repair Tool Kits

The package contains everything (battery, suction cup, plastic clips to open the phone, magnetic screw driver/bits, tweezers, and adhesion strips for battery and iPhone, (also a sim removal tool- not necessary for battery replacement)), necessary for swapping batteries, but the instructions. I watched a video on swapping the battery and paused it at every step. You need to force the plastic clip between the display and back case to open the case, the suction cup just helps to open the case. Neither the display or back of the phone are damaged, you just need to use more force than you might want to. The connectors for the display and battery also use more force to disconnect than I was comfortable with, again no damage. the process turns out to be pretty easy once you go through it. It took about 20 minutes.The best advice I can give is on placing the new battery in. Put the new battery in first without adhesive and test it to make sure it works and will charge. If, everything works, it is easy enough to pull the phone apart again take the battery out and add the adhesive. If the new battery doesn't work or there are problems, it is much easier to put the old battery back in. Second best advice, is to use a finger to push the display and battery connectors back in. You have a better feel for when they pop in and are well seated.I made the mistake of putting adhesive on the new battery and placing it in the phone before testing everything. I did turn the phone on before closing the case, making sure the battery powered the phone and the display worked properly. But, after sealing up the phone and powering it on, I had problems. The phone seemed slow to boot up and the battery level was dropping pretty fast (1% every minute or so). The internet connection seemed slow. The phone started to reboot every minute or two, even after plugging it in. The battery would not charge past 20%. I tried several things to fix it (including connecting to iTunes and a hard reboot), nothing worked. I thought I had a bad new battery and decided to put the old one back in. Even with the adhesive taking the phone apart took less than five minutes. On putting the old battery in, I popped the connector in with a finger and noticed it popped in. The connector laid flatter than the new battery's connector. I swapped the battery with the new one and pushed the connector in with a finger. It popped in and laid flat. I connected the display and turned the phone on. Everything worked much better. Boot up was noticeably faster, battery charge level was higher, battery charged and no longer rebooted. My problem was bad battery connector contact. The phone works fine. But, I don't have all the adhesive I should on the battery and case, because I didn't thoroughly test everything before committing the adhesive.So far the new battery works fine. This is the first morning with a full charge. I've used the phone (several times over the last 8 hours) and battery level is still at 80%. I would have had to charge the old battery several times by now, or used it plugged in.The battery works (no heat on charging) and it came with a nice tool kit. I'd buy from them again, if it's ever necessary (I have an old iPad).

Works awesome, no issues, battery health is at 100% again. Very happy

This is my dad's old phone be stopped using it because mainly the battery died so quickly so it been sitting in a drawer for years I've used it a couple times but had to leave it plugged it went from 68% maximum capacity to 100% it took me about an hour and a half to fix (I've never done this before as a middle schooler) it cam with everything you need from a screwdriver to the sticky adhesive to hole the battery down I will say the tool to get up the screen is pretty crappy considering it broke when I tried to get the battery up it's definitely a good value because a place charges 60 to replace for the most part it was easy it charges kinda slow but I just installed it so I'll give it some slack the power is great before with the old battery if I had it on my desk for 20 mins it would die but now with the new battery it only lost about 2% Thanks for the new phone basically!

The battery in my iPhone 6s was dead as can be. After removing the charger, it would only last for 15-30 minutes before shutting off. I have a background in the tech industry, so I know about Lithium-ion batteries and how to tear apart tiny devices like phones and music players. I shopped around on Amazon for a replacement battery for the 6s and was amused by the claims about battery milliamp-hour capacities. The original 6s battery that Apple shipped says on its label that the capacity is 1715 mA-hr. If Apple says it, then I know it’s true. They no doubt evaluated batteries before selecting a vendor, or vendors, and knew what they were getting for their money (and yours). The 6s shipped at the end of 2016, but it takes about a year to design a product and then ramp up the design into manufacturing. It’s a safe bet that the best capacity Apple could find in 2015 was this one with its 1715 mA-hr rating. I.e, in 2024, this battery is about 9 years old.The question is: can you buy a battery today that is better than the battery that Apple shipped in 2016?You must understand that ALL battery manufacturers are using the same technologies and the same materials. No one has a significant lead in his technology over anyone else, for if he did, everyone would drop their current vendors and use this guy’s leading battery technology. He’d be the richest guy on the planet, not Elon. This holds true today as well. Every battery you will find anywhere has just about the same capacity as the other guys’ products. Thus, when I scanned Amazon for a 6s replacement battery, I was amused at the wild differences in claimed capacities. I had the highest respect for anyone claiming a capacity that was very near Apple’s. Conversely, I had the least amount of respect for the guys claiming wildly larger capacities than the original. The most absurd was 9000 mA-hr. I'm here to tell you that batteries like this are complete marketing BS. Such suppliers are relying on your inability to test their product to sell you a bill of goods!Knowing all of this, I scanned though as many Amazon ads as I could find and dismissed the ones with the highest capacity claims. 3500 mA-hr was my cutoff point because it is twice what Apple’s battery was rated at 9 years earlier. Batteries these days are at best twice as good as they were in 2015, tops, but realistically, today’s battery is probably at best only 50% better than what you could buy in 2015. Whatever battery I bought, I expected it would be no better than 1715 mA-hr x 1.5, or about 2600 mA-hr. With that in mind, let’s delve into my adventure of replacing my 6s battery, and see if my guess was right.After limiting the choices to 3500 mA-hr and under, I then made sure the kit included the little gasket that goes between the display and the case (some kits don’t include it). After that, it boiled down to price and a reasonably fast shipping time. I didn’t want to wait 2 weeks to get it. This is how/why I ended up choosing the Conqto 3200 mA-hr battery. It had modest capacity claims, met my price point, and got here in 4 days.The 4 day shipping time gave me plenty of time to watch a lot of YouTube videos on how to replace the 6s battery. You should definitely go out and buy a small bottle of 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol because it cuts through the adhesives used in this phone. Rather than pry open the phone and risk breaking the glass display, apply the isopropyl alcohol around the perimeter of the phone, which will easily loosen up the foam gasket that seals it shut. Let the alcohol sit for 15 seconds or so, and you will find that the little “guitar pick” in the kit easily opens up the phone. Follow instructions to remove the LCD display’s 3 video connectors. Once you have clear access to the back case holding the battery, pull on the tape per the instruction videos to remove the battery. I carefully pulled away the first adhesive strip under that battery, amazed at how something so small and thin could be stretched to over 12” in length, but it did and then snapped free. However, the second strip then broke despite my careful pulling of the strip. Many Amazon commenters have described how difficult it is after this to remove the battery. But once again, isopropyl alcohol to the rescue: use an eye dropper to drip a little alcohol under the battery and let it sit for a few seconds. The battery will easily lift out after that!With the old battery removed, now it’s time to clean away the old thin gasket that holds the case and display closed. Despite YouTube videos showing the foam gasket being easily pulled away, mine was a dissolved mess. The alcohol cuts through the foam gasket’s adhesive, but you will need tissues and Q-tips to remove it all. Be patient and remove it all.With the foam gasket cleared out, you can now install the new battery per instructions.After this, it is time to attach the new foam gasket. I found this to be a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I’m used to working with small items, but due to age, my eyesight isn’t what it used to be. Fortunately for me, I have a fancy stereo lab microscope. Even with it, getting the gasket applied correctly is dicey. The gasket adhesive is extremely sticky, so if you get it misaligned, it’s hard, but not impossible, to pick it back up to reposition it. That’s all I can tell you. Many of the YouTube instruction videos completely omit replacing the gasket, which I think is because it is not a simple thing to do. Omitting this step in their video makes the task look easier than it really is. Look around for other videos that show how you align and attach the gasket!After the gasket is replaced, you can then re-attach the display’s 3 connectors. Before buttoning the phone back up, hold the display a bit away from the case so as not to snag it on the sticky foam gasket, and then hold down the power button for 5 seconds to let the phone boot up. Observe the display to make sure you have all 3 video connectors properly attached. If you are happy with what you see, then shut off the phone. It’s time to seal it all together. Just like that, you’re ready to test it. All told, it took me about 2 hours to do, but I was being extremely cautious. If I had to do it all again, I think I could get it done in 30 minutes or less.When I powered the 6s back up, I looked at the battery charge indicator, which said it was about 50% capacity. Many people comment that a battery vendor is “being cheap” by not shipping a battery that is fully charged,” but they do not know US and European law, which requires that ANY product that ships with a Lithium-ion battery MUST ship with the battery no more than half charged! It’s all about “fire hazard.” These batteries contain a LOT Of energy. Anyone who has ever seen one of these batteries on fire (watch a few examples on YouTube) will understand. Tesla fires are extremely rare events, but when a 100 kW-hr battery system ignites, it is quite the firestorm that water cannot extinguish. This is why your replacement battery initially reads 50% or less. It’s to be expected.However, I wanted to test the battery to see if I could read the REAL battery capacity. Being the propeller head that I am, I know how to do , and will describe it here. I first charged the battery overnight, but I inserted a little USB power meter between my high power USB-A charger (3.2A maximum) and the 6s. (Life tip: the size of the charger does NOT mean the product will consume all the current a charger can deliver. No, the firmware in the product makes that decisions!) The meter lets me monitor milliamp-hours as well as the duration of the charging time. When I woke up next morning, I noticed that the phone was still drawing a current of about 80 mA. This is the current that the iPhone uses in the background to do “phone things” like keeping Wi-Fi running, LTE, Bluetooth, and probably a little bit CPU power as well. None of this current it going into the battery. It is going directly into the phone, but it is important to know this extraneous current. Keep it in mind for the calculation that follows.I then set about to completely discharge the battery, all the way down to 0% charge, which will then shut down the phone. I did this by first removing the Lighting cable to operate the phone from the battery. Enable anything and everything that you can that needs power. Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, turn the display up to full brightness, etc. Anything that will try to suck the battery dry, you want to turn on. Then open your browser and find a long YouTube video, like one of these cop chasing vids that last for 2-3 hours. If need be, configure the browser to repeat the video once the video ends. You want an endless loop replay of the video. You may have to intervene here and there to turn the phone back on because iOS decided the battery was getting low and shut off the power. No, start it back up and then begin to “dismiss” the low battery warnings, which usually start when the battery hits about 30%. I took it all the way down to 1%, and then watched as the 6s took its dying last gasp and shut itself completely down. Hitting the Home button did nothing. Dead, power off. This is what you are looking for: a completely discharged new battery. The subsequent charging cycle will calibrate for iOS what your new battery’s capacity is.It is now time to charge the phone, but you must first reset the USB power meter so that it starts its measurements from zero. Plug in the Lightning cable and let the charging begin. I have run the following test a couple of times now so I know what to expect, but with this particular battery and this particular iPhone (6s) and this particular iOS (15.8.2 — the maximum iOS for the 6s) I needed to wait about 4 hours for the charger to completely replenish the fully-discharged battery.During the charging cycle, at about the 3 hour mark, check the USB power meter to see how much current is going into the phone. The way Lithium-ion batteries work, they usually shut off charging NOT when the battery charge current = zero, but some value slightly above zero, usually about 2-3% of the battery’s “C rate.” If the battery is rated at, say, 3000 mA-hr, that is its C rating, and 3% of it is about 90 mA. In this example, 90 mA is considered “fully charged.” Some charging circuitry will cut off charging at this current, while other will let the current continue to slowly decrease to zero, overnight if you let it. Who knows what Apple does during its charging algorithm, but we know for certain that once the measured current hits about 80 mA, the battery is completely charged. That parasitic 80 mA will be there forever as long a you leave the charger connected. We just have to be aware of this current that is not flowing into the battery, and how to mathematically cancel it out.In my case, at about the 4 hour mark, the USB meter indicated I was drawing about 100 mA, which I said is “good enough.” I then recorded the following parameters:Milliamp-hrs = 2719Total elapsed charging time: 4:03 (hours:minutes), close enough to 4.0 hours.Here’s the math: all during the 4:03 charge time, there was a parasitic 80 mA of current being siphoned off of the current to keep the iPhone doing what an iPhone does. That current corresponds to 80 mA * 4 hours = 320 mA-hr. You must subtract this figure from the measured 2719 mA-hr.And there you have it: THIS BATTERY’S CAPACITY IS ACTUALLY (2719 - 320) =2400 mA-hrversus the claimed 3200 mA-hr. A rip-off? No, not really. You can get angry at the Chinese vendors who claim all sorts of crazy battery capacities, but let’s compare 2400 mA-hr to the old Apple battery’s capacity of 1715 mA-hr. This battery gives you about 40% MORE juice than the battery that Apple shipped 8 years ago! Not bad! It is in line with my original estimate that today’s battery might be 50% better (higher capacity) than you could get in 2015. It measures 40% better. I’ll take it!I have had the phone off of the charger for the last 24 hours. It’s just been sitting on my dresser, no phone calls, no emails, no texts, no nothing. Just laying there. After 24 hours of no use, the battery indicator says 80%. I think that’s great. The old battery wouldn’t last more than 30 minutes when off the charger. I’m a happy camper. My only complaint, that I levy against this and most other battery vendors, is their exaggerated capacity claims. For that, I ding one star. Other than that, everything is good. My iPhone 6s has been resurrected and its battery is 40% better than it was the day Apple shipped it!