RUSSELL639570 Speed Bleeder

The installation was very simple. Remove your old bleeder and install the new Speed Bleeders. Bleeding the calipers on my 2000 Toyota Avalon XL was easy. Just a quick note for those that use torque wrenches to seat and close their bleeders, the Russell Speed Bleeder has a Teflon coasting to seal the bleeder from outside air while bleeding the brake. This coating will give a false torque reading that indicates the bleeder is seated and closed. You will need to manually seat the bleeder by hand using a six point or twelve point closed end wrench. Use the wrench using only two fingers until you feel the bleeder seat. A simple pump of the brake pedal will confirm whether or not the bleeder is seated. If any brake fluid appears, try another two finger pull on the bleeder to seat it. After seating the first bleeder you'll have a good idea of how much force to apply to seat the remaining bleeders.

Why all car makers do not use these as stock equipment in their cars is beyond my understanding. These bleeders make a one man brake bleed a very easy job. With conventional bleeders you have to either have a helper pump the brakes and hold or use a vacuum bleeder to extract the air in the system. With these you crack them open and just pump the brake pedal since each time you lift off of the pedal the internal ball on spring will rise and seal off any air from entering the brake system. Go to the manufacturer website to see the animation of how it works. If your brake system is shot and has very dirty fluid with chunks of rust in it then these are not for you. Debris will get caught in the ball/spring mechanism and cause it to get stuck. Your best bet in that situation is to remove the brake line from the caliper or wheel cylinder and flush the entire system. Rebuild or replace the caliper or wheel cylinder before putting it all back together. Don't try to save a few bucks when it comes to brakes.

Works exactly as advertised. 5-10 pumps at each wheel and you are done. No repetitive loosening / tightening. No assistant. No cumbersome hand vacuum pumps. All bleeder valves should be like these. These 7 mm valves fit on the front caliper of my 2004 Toyota Tundra (13WL cast). Didn't have to lift the vehicle. Just cocked the wheels and replaced the old ones with the new. I did lift the vehicle to install them in the rear after removing the rear tires, but with these in, I probably can just reach behind and loosen the valves and bleed anytime I need to. We'll see how they hold up after a while but for now, they worked superbly.

After seeing a few reviews I was concerned with the bleeders breaking when being tightened but had no issues with these. My specific application uses 7mm so the walls are thin but again I had no issues. Bleeding was really straight forward on the calipers and really didn't take long at all with 3 bleed points in my system. Connect your clear hose, crack open the bleeder and watch it go! Definitely pay attention to you fluid levels in the master as you really push a lot out toward the end of the job after the bulk of the larger bubbles have been worked out. I will for sure buy these again!

Perfect for what I needed

Update: March, 2020Well, I went to bleed the brakes on the car again today and low and behold the first bleeder valve I went to loosen snapped off again.This time in a drum brake.I am going to see if a mechanic can drill it out but I may have to have it replaced completely...DO NOT BUY.------I installed four of these on my 2004 Toyota Corolla.They work well, allowing one person to bleed the brakes by pumping with these only turned 1/4 to 1/2 the way open.The only issue I have with them is that they are a bit long, and when I went to bleed the 3rd brake with them and tighten it back down, the whole bleeder broke in half, and became seized inside the disc caliper. So another $52 extra to replace the caliper, and now I only have 3 speed bleeders.So my word of advice is BE CAREFUL when you tighten these things back, they are surprisingly fragile.