White 6000K T5 37 74 PC74 PC37 LED Bulb Dashboard Instrument Light

Replaced the dash bulbs in 2002 Ford F350 panel, not warning/informational bulbs. Much brighter than originals and looks a lot better. You just have to get the polarity correct. Didn't see any way to tell except reversing if bulb fail to burn on first try.

Great price, includes the sockets too! I used 5 bulbs on my TJ's instrument cluster and 2 bulbs on my AC panel. Still have 3 left as spares. They really improve the lighting. The only problem is the dimming is almost unnoticeable now.

These are so much brighter than my OEM bulbs. LED lights fit into a base that matches your application. I bought another brand from Amazon that did not fit into their base. I tried everything. These worked perfectly in my instrument cluster.

I bought these to update the dim lights in my instrument cluster in my 20 year old honda. Ordered the white leds but they ended up having a bluish tint. Not too bad so I'm satisfied as they are very bright. The only real complaint I have is that the bases included did not work. That means none of them. But, another reviewer said that he just reused the factory bases. I took his advice and everything worked fine. Considering the price, this should be a five star product, but because I wasted time on the included bases, I'm downgrading to four stars.

Fit my 2002 Honda Civic instrument cluster lights. They are listed as white, however, they have a slight blue tint to them, but that hasn't bothered me so far. They are very bright and at least on my car they are slightly dimmable. They don't dim as much as the halogens do, however, if I turned the knob far enough down they did dim. I'm thinking of putting the remaining bulbs wherever I can find a spot for them. the only downside is that they are very tight in their socket so you will have to push pretty hard to get them to seat fully. All 10 of mine worked, however, they are polarized so if it doesn't work the first time you will have to flip them 180 degrees to get them to work.

Works for 2011 Ford Ranger ** - must use stock sockets (not included ones) - you will NOT get them all to light up 1st try - you must remove socket & rotate socket/bulb combo 180 degrees to reverse polarity Tips : - use needle nose pliers - radio/ac knob bezel only needs to be pulled out slightly (2 screws removed) — DO NOT REMOVE RADIO! - lots of 7mm & 8mm bolts on trim pieces - to remove instrument panel you MUST 1st remove screws, shift to 1, tilt steering wheel down, and then remove shift indicator (2 tabs & pulls out of bottom) before you can remove the 2 wiring harnesses from rear of it! Entire procedure start to finish took me 1 hour in my driveway. These bulbs ARE dimmable — however will be much brighter at all times vs your radio & ac/heat control knobs. Lastly there are a total of ten bulbs. Note that only 5 of them are dimmable “dash lights”. The other 5 are lights for the left turn, right turn, high beam, cruise control, and overheat light. You need to try out those lights before reassembling..... otherwise you’ll be pulling it apart again!

Yes, I flipped the bulbs to double check polarity, 3 failed when other bulbs worked just fine. 3 stars only because of a 7.54 deal, the ones that did work are bright and they ARE adjustable with the rheostat control. That said, these were advertised for a 2004 Sequoia. I understand such designations are though Amazon's vehicle selection process, so it is not so much that these fit but can be 'made' to fit where it's close enough to fit though a couple have to be turned just so, unlike OEM that have full fit. Let's just say they are a little awkward. I didn't want to be one of those unfortunates that didn't check function before putting the instrument panel (IP) back, only to discover half of them don't work. So here is what I did. My vehicle has three connectors behind the IP that most people disconnect in order to install the bulbs. I noticed that the main wire bundle with those three tails was secured further back in the dash cavity. Using a fastener removal tool, I popped the plastic retainer of the main bundle which allowed me to pull the IP put further leaving the three connectors connected. This say, I would install a bulb and see right away if it worked. What I did was make sure to be mindful of what side of the bulb (with a number stamped on it) and the twist lock socket (lettering on the back) for reference. I notices that direction the lettering of all the other sockets in the dash were facing (upside down) so made sure the new ones did too. Then I guessed and used the side of the bulb with the number stamped in it (the other side was alpha-numeric) and slid the bulb in. 50/50 odds. Some LED bulbs take a little effort to wedge in the socket, even the ones they came with and even having used I used a small dab of dialectic bulb grease. Luckily, the LED lit the first time up, so no guessing game from there on out. I had three LEDs that would not light. Yes, I flipped them just to be sure that the bulbs didn't have random polarity gates, and tested by inserting known good bulbs in the IP sockets. A 70% rate of proper function is very impressive. However, the ones that did work were both VERY bright (too bright for my wife) AND dimmable, at least in my vehicle. The problem with dimming the I bP lights is that the remaining Incandescent bulbs in the radio/HVAC panel dim too much. I hadn't considered that. Now I will have to find more LEDs for so all of the panel lights can be dimmed evenly across the board.

Bright

It took a while to get them but they work great. Really bright.

Gracias muy funcionales

I ordered these lights because the marketing indicated they would fit my 2007 F150.... They do not, the socket is not the correct design for my model, the metal sensors do not fit nor connect to the upper and lower side of the dash, hense not connection. The genuine sockets are designed with upper and lower sensors to connect to the dash.

Todos los focos funcionan, pero ahora al poner las luces de emergencia parpadea mi odómetro! No entiendo que pasa

Satisfait