B0132

After reading a few reviews I took a chance on this meter assuming it should do the job I wanted it for.I wanted to monitor my leisure battery voltage but also keep an eye on my current usage. The ability to record the cumulative power consumption was just a bonus and I didn't really think I would use it as I plan on isolating the battery when not in use so assumed that this data would be lost anyway.Well, I was surprised in more ways than one at the sensible design of the meter. Firstly, the power consumption appears to be stored in flash memory so even if isolating power (disconnecting the meters supply) the data is retained - meaning I can actually keep a decent eye on the approximate energy left in the battery. Secondly, the backlight on/off function/status is also stored in flash, which is really neat too.I purchased the 50A shunt hoping for a little more accuracy (assuming that I would get double the resolution steps) than using the 100A shunt. Assuming you correctly setup the meter (so it knows that you have the 50A shunt) I would assume my assumption is correct. I can see approximately 10ma changes in the display (I think this would mean it has at least a 12bit resolution?) - the 40ma quiescent draw is displayed when I turn on the campers leisure supply, and (in the picture) you can see approximately 730ma draw when I have the lighting circuit on (about 3w) with two 3w led bulbs (so approximately 9w). So small measurement do seem to work well which was important for monitoring/estimating battery life. The meter is installed with roughly a 3m cable length for both the supply and shunt signal (I just used some 4core alarm cable). I also wanted to be able to periodically check the charging current (as a way of ensuring I am not putting too much load on the campers own 12v system as well excessive current to the leisure battery). This meter does not show reverse current unfortunately (this is clear in the product details) but as I could see from the reviews that others had successfully attempted to reverse the shunt connections with a switch I thought I would do the same. I can confirm this works great. I used a small DPDT switch with the shunt signal going to the common pair and the outputs (one crossed) both going to the meter. The meters instructions suggest that the meters supply would need to be moved to the other side of the shunt if using the meter to measure charging current rather than load but I didn't and it still seems to be fine (I guess there may be a small difference in the current accuracy when using the reverse switch) but no problem for the way I am using it.The meter is good value for money but does assume some technical knowledge about wiring and electrical safety and well as a bit of electrical theory. If none of the above review concerns or confuses you I would say go for it – at the fraction of the cost of a Victron display (without Bluetooth of course!) it is a brilliant little device.

I bought the 100A + 100A/75mV shunt - Useful in helping prolong the life of my leisure batteries. Because I have a 95AH battery (total ~ 1100 watts), when the energy shows 600w after use following a full charge, I know I am around 50% discharged and can switch batteries. For those who don’t know, a cycle of 50% discharge followed by full charge is recommended to extend battery life.If, like me you can’t afford full Vitron kit then this is very useful to monitor battery usage. It measures energy consumed rather than load voltage as some do (some meters show a percentage battery consumption based on load voltage) so it can tell me when I’ve used 50% of my leisure battery. For those with solar kit, the energy used number won’t help much on its own if you are solar charging. You will see battery drain current and load volage which is still useful but because it doesn’t show current flowing into the battery only out and therefore it’s difficult to work out charge state. (You could use several units but I haven’t tried multiple units)Before I put this in my self-build motorhome, I thought I would test it as the shut resister looked bent. I have 2 leisure batteries; one a 95 Ah 12v wet acid by Bosch and one an import brand 110Ah AGM. I have a switch to connect 1 or 2 or both. The idea being that I charge them fully, reset the meter (hold down the button until it says reset) then use battery 1 on its own until energy reads 600w then switch to battery 2. As most our trips are off mains, short trips I suspect I am draining one battery too much by switching after 3 days as I do now.The picture shows my lab bench PSU throwing out 12.5v @ 3amp and is powering a 40w bulb. The shunt is connected to the negative terminal as it does in the van. My bench PSU is rounding the numbers to 1 decimal place and the Ketotek is showing a more accurate 2.98 amp. Not bad for a 100amp shunt resister. I left it running for many hours and the energy reading was also accurate.It doesn’t come with a surface mount box for the meter or the shunt but that’s ok because I am recessing mine. I also have a suitable box for the shunt resistor.I also like the LCD back light which is a single button press on/off. You can set voltage alarm which flashes the backlight so you could set it to 11.9 but I don’t think that would be much use.All in all, my view is that it is accurate and good value for money.

Simple to use.

I made some ally U-brackets for the shunt and mounted using the supplied 8mm bolts. I put the display in a plastic box. These were mounted on a plywood base with two input and output connectors (choc block that could take max 16mm in my case). Yes you will need some 16mm (depend on your intended load) cable lengths and some hook up wire, the diagrams are clear.This is accurate, I checked against good quality test gear, spot on. The shunt ran cold, I bought the 100A version, it will never be used above 25A, this is a good factor of safety to aim for. Check the instructions, clear and easy to follow, like the diagram. It remembers the readings too, next time powered up can continue or easy reset.Highly recommended, aimed at somebody who has some experience in wiring and electronics. A remarkable price on Amazon.

Was working fine, good readings, very accurate but as soon as it touched 100amps. that was it. Killed it. Has no over amp protection. Make sure u only buy if if u know u won't exceed 99amps