Gizmo DorksPEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 300mm x 300mm (11.8" x 11.8") with Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive, Made in The USA

The last sheet of PEI lasted about a year of pretty regular use. It did finally get to the point where prints were not sticking even when wiped with IPA or Acetone. This was in large part due to scrapes in the PEI surface over the last year and removing very stuck on prints.This obviously brought back the perfect adhesion that I had become accustomed to. The adhesion is pretty insane, on par with the textured glass that comes on Creality glass beds. The difference being this doesn't rip itself off when you remove a print!Removing the old sheet of PEI from my glass bed took some time. I pried it up (with a lot of effort) which left the entire surface covered in adhesive. I then applied a liberal amount of goo gone and went at it with a razor blade. This actually came up pretty quickly and the new sheet went down really easily. Cutting it to shape after it was on the bed was a breeze as well.This is thinner than the PEI from the same listing that I got a year ago. That's not an issue, but something I noted. It's uniform thickness and leveling the bed with my CR6SE was simple. First layers went down evenly and obviously stuck really well.Overall this is a must in my opinion. There is nothing worse that coming back to a long print that has lifted in a corner!

I print lots of PLA+ and have found this to work better than anything else I've printed on.

I had recently purchased a cheap spring steel bed not realizing it had thick textured PEI on both sides. sanded one side down to metal and stuck this guy on it it's pretty thick but the spring steel still flexes pretty well. even ooze blobs stick to this thing almost too well. I haven't used anything other than PETG on it but if you're having a hard time with bed adhesion don't even think about it just get it. I have never owned a wham bam spring steel bed. But I saw a video where teaching tech had one and it looked just like the surface on that pretty sure wham bam even recommends sanding it with 600 grit sandpaper just like this one.

Once applied this will definitely make a huge difference with PLA.However, the adhesive is VERY VERY STICKY. You can NOT reposition it without ruining the glue surface and creating an uneven surface. Once it’s on you’re committed. This is not clear in the installation instructions.Which leads me to the question… how the heck do we get it off? Mineral spirits? Heat? Brute force? Divine intervention? No mention of removal are included with the instructions.Also if you need to cut it for fitment, it’s best to apply the sheet on the bed surface, remove the whole surface, flip and cut the excess. This will prevent alignment mistakes because even if a tiny bit touches down, it’s stuck and you can’t go back.

As everyone has, I've struggled with ABS prints warping due to a semi-open air printer setup. I've mostly gotten it down so I can print successfully. The last bit of the puzzle was this PEI sheet. Holy moly, everything adheres to it like nothing I've experienced, almost to a point of fault. I haven't had to scrape anything off a build plate in years since I last used a glass build surface, but with this, you get the awesome adhesion you want and it can be applied to a flex build plate.I've not once had ABS warp on this sheet, even with a draft. It's amazing!

What LulzBot called PEI turns out to be more of a Kapton tape. I struggled for months with a printer that was donated to me to get ANY materials to stick without slurry or glue. Turns out, the VERY EXPENSIVE green film that LulzBot sells as "PEI" is likely Kapton.This PEI sheet is pretty easy to apply to the TAZ4 bed once it's been cleaned. After installation, I lightly sanded the surface with 1500 grit emory paper and wash the surface before EVERY print with a light splash of Alcohol. Many say to use Isopropyl, but I have had a lot of success with Denatured Alcohol as well.ABS sticks fairly well in my enclosed print case. (Designed to keep the heat constant and away from drafts). PLA sticks fantastic and needs to have a slight bit of heat in the bed to allow for clean part removal. I likely am compressing the first layer more than I need to, but I do feel that it gives me more consistent first-layer coverage that way.This will improve your LulzBOT 4 if you're having issues.

Works great as a replacement on my TAZ 6, will buy additional for future replacement.I bought this PEI sheet to use in conjunction with the "Wisamic Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed 300x300x3mm for 3D Printers Prusa, CR-10 CR-10S S3, Mandela, AO Series" and they both arrived next day via Prime, getting my machine back in service within the same weekend my original glass broke and at half the cost of an official replacement part that would've taken at least an entire work week to process and arrive.Install was straightforward following the provided instructions, the PEI sheet provides excellent adhesion for prints, and it looks nice and slick to boot! One minor gripe was that the PEI sheet extended maybe 1mm past the edge of the 300x300x3mm Borosilicate glass so I had to trim the edges with a utility knife. Doing so is a bit of a hassle as the PEI sheet is thick/tough enough to be difficult to cut against a cutting mat, so I ended up extending the glass plate + PEI sheet past edge of my table and cutting in a sawing motion while using the edge of the glass as a guide.Overall would highly recommend and will buy again.

This sheet is much thicker than other sheets I have bought, and as a result also more rigid. My first prints with it stuck very well indeed and had a glassy finish when released. I found a little hairspray made it much easier, also printing with a brim allowed me to get the palette knife underneath.My previous sheets were around 0.25mm, and I managed to rip one when trying to slide the palette knife in. I am optimistic that this will not happen with this one.

Finally I can load up the print bed and have zero worry I'll have any issue with bed adhesion. I had my setting dialed pretty good for glass but sometimes still lifted. I have had zero issues since installing this and I've went through a couple rolls of filament. It can be difficult to get off sometimes. Instead of glass, having a flexible sheet to bend would be ideal but for now this is good.

I have used many different build plates with my cr10s ...so far the adhesion has been great. Getting the model off the plate is tough. If you want a build plate with super adhesion this is the one. It feels like plastic its not metal but it works great. No magnetic its goes over the glass bed. 5stars it's great for tall prints.

Difficile de coller la feuille . bulles et je n'ai jamais jamais réussi une impression . Aucune adhérence avec le TPU et même le PLA . J'ai jeté à la poubelle .