WS2812B LED Strip Lights 3.2ft 1M WS2812B 144LEDs Programmable Individual Addressable WS2811 Built-in 5050 RGB LED Strip IP30 Non-Waterproof DC5V with Mini Controller

This is a very good working LED strip, that I bought to make my very own "NeoPixel" led lightsaber that totaled up to about $50 thanks to these nice LEDs in combination with a Rasberry Pi microcontroller, some other components, and a PCB that I had made.Upon testing these LEDs I'd like to let you know that at full power running on 5 volts, this strip will pull about 450-500 mA depending on what colors you are using. Although, you can dim down the LEDs in code to about 1/3 brightness which will draw about 280 mA. The primary red, green, blue are less power, but when you combine the colors you will start pulling more current. I also found that even while idle and having absolutely no LEDs on, the standby current is about 80mA due to the fact that the shift register chips inside of the LEDs still need to be powered.Setup on this LED strip is very simple, if using any type of Arduino IDE compatible microcontroller. There are 3 pins: 5V, data, ground in that order. There are two separate wires in addition to these pins, but these wires are simply the 5V and ground wires that can be connected to a separate power source if you wanted to do that instead. It is worth noting that Adafruit themselves recommend that if you are using a 3.3V data signal with a 5V power source, you should use a 5V buffer chip such as (SN74AHCT125N), this is the setup that I used right off the bat, although it may not be necessary. However, a 5V data signal with a 5V power source will work perfect.Setting up the program is very simple as well for these LEDS. It is directly compatible with the <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h> library, the only thing that you have to do is specify that there are 144 LEDS. Attached is a screenshot of my code to get an idea of how to set it up.

For some reason they freeze randomly. I’ve tried two different controllers, and they do it on both. The controller that comes with it is very rudimentary and pretty much useless. I purchased a new controller that connects via Bluetooth hoping that would solve the freezing problem. It did not. Although it is a much better controller. I can only assume it’s something wrong with the strip.Update.. turns out that the power supply was not adequate for the lights, ensure that you have at least 2 A in your power supply to run these lights properly.

Looks amazing, I did not use the controls, set up with addressable board. 👌 chained multiple strips and panels together.

A++++++ quality

Pads rip off of PCB too easily when trying to solder. Bought 6 rolls for a project and had the same exact issue with all of them.Save your money and sanity and invest in higher quality ones.

Ordered 2 of these, and both worked fine and as expected. Upon inspecting found both sets (1 arrived two days after the first) had a splice point. Not a big deal except the spacing is double that of the others so once you see it you cant un-see it. Probably wouldnt notice except I ordered 3.2ft sections for a specific purpose and the led spacing does matter. I'm going to try to solder these closer together, but I could have ordered a longer length and simply cut to fit. The entire purpose of me paying the higher price for 2 specific lengths was to avoid any splicing. Maybe I'm being to picky, but maybe not. On the "bright" side I had not bad LEDs and illumination looks nice and even.

The LED strip itself is great, and will work fine with an arduino or similar. But the included controller is absolute junk. 2 of the 3 buttons don't respond at all, so I can't cycle modes in one direction or adjust the speed, making it pretty much useless.

These dull pieces of crap are not worth the time! Only about ¼ of the LED's even worked and wouldn't even change front attached to a neopixel with a Proffieboard V2.2.Anyone else buying them, they say they come with a control box... yeah, one. Even if you buy multiple strips, they only send one control box. So if you were planning to run separate programs (assuming the LED's aren't brown), then forget it.

Works good, cut them apart and soldered them into some different patterns. They run FastLED great no complaints.