Catchmaster Rat & Mouse Glue Traps 12 Pack, Large Heavy Duty Sticky Traps

There is a reason why professional exterminators use this and don't bother with "snap traps" - they flat out work. But there are a few things to keep in mind to make sure you get maximum effectiveness: 1. You must know the path that the critters are taking. Just spend some time getting inside the head of your vermin - they have a nest somewhere and they travel back and forth to food and water sources. They will usually travel against walls and along the tops of roof joists. If you find holes in walls, you will often see a dirty smudge where their filthy little tails drag along behind them. You will also see droppings (they seem to poop constantly). Place these traps in the high traffic areas, arranging them so that they are butted against walls, and along the trails they follow (think of the way ants travel in a line - rats and mice kind of do the same thing). 2. Don't bother with bait - if you follow the instructions in #1 above you don't need bait. I have never baited these things and I have caught a LOT of rats (my wife feeds birds in our yard and the seed attracts rats). 3. Do NOT use these outside or anywhere your pets or children can come in contact with them. If you put them outside, you will inevitably end up with a bird stuck to it, and unless you are a cold-hearted killer, you will feel awful. When I have to use them outside (like along the pathways the rats use to visit the bird feeders) I cover them with a long pice of plywood propped against the wall to create a "tunnel" and try to make it much more difficult for anything other than a rat or mouse to get stuck. Also, curious house cats will OFTEN get stuck in these, especially if there is a mouse or rat thrashing around on it and squeaking. Let me tell you that it is NO fun trying to pull one of these off your cat's face while there is a live rat stuck to it (or a toddler's shoe!). Also not covering them, you'll end up with a lot of leaf litter on them, which hinders their effectiveness. 4. Don't use these if you can't handle the sight of a dead (or dying) rat or mouse. Be prepared to "dispatch" the animal humanely once they are trapped. These traps do not cause instant death (the way snap traps do). The animal will eventually die (often from suffocation or shock) but the most humane thing to do is to kill them once you hear the squeaking and thrashing around. Speaking of which, it is fairly common (especially for a larger rat) to become partially stuck on one of these traps. I had a big wood rat get his back end stuck on one in my attic one night, and he flipped out, thrashing around and dragging it all over the place until I was able to crawl up there and "take him out". Outside, I usually use a shovel to decapitate them quickly when they get stuck. In the attic, I will usually use a very sharp hunting knife or a pair of lopping shears to decapitate them. (Did I mention this is not for squeamish people?). On a side note, don't leave these in the attic too long without checking them. Trust me, if you wait until you smell something funny, you are going to have a very unpleasant situation to deal with. 5. Make sure you wear rubber/latex/nitrile gloves while disposing of these once you have a dead mouse/rat. The reason is twofold: first, they are filthy disease-ridden creatures and they tend to poop and pee all over when they die, and you don't want contact with that. Secondly, if you accidentally get stuck to the trap while retrieving it, you can slip off a glove easily. If you're bare skin gets stuck (and these things are STICKY!) you will have a real mess do deal with.

I got 2 mice in my house and tried using a bunch of glue traps...with little/ no success. Then I remembered I bought these "Catchmaster" back in 2021, never used them, and they just sat in their box. I used them and caught one mouse in 10 minutes....and the second mouse took about a week. Unlike other glue traps which are kinda flimsy (or made of paper), these traps are really solid/ strong. Suggestions for use: 1- They got to be placed on the ground/ floor and 2-use food. The company and instructions say don't use food...and that's fine. I used food and it worked FAST. I placed a dry cracker as a dry base --- and a nice scoop of peanut butter on top. (Not too much, you don't want the PB to mix with the glue.) I caught the first mouse by placing the glue trap in a quiet dark corner of the room on the floor. The second mouse took a week because I screwed up. I tried being "too cute" and putting the traps in really interesting spots, usually off the ground on shelves 2/3 feet high. Nothing. But I could hear him skitter every night. Aaargh. I then put the traps ON THE GROUND and in dark/quiet areas...and 5 minutes later, he was caught and it was over. The large trap size really matters. The first mouse was tiny, maybe not more then a credit card size in length (2") and very thin. But the second mouse was a Monster...he was 1/2 pound and as round/thick as a 60 watt light bulb (4" long) and VERY strong. But the Catchmaster Glue Trap caught the monster with no issues/effort. After you catch/kill the mouse, you have to throw out both the mouse/trap into the trash. That glue is no joke. If a trap doesn't end up being used ... you can also reuse these traps by reclosing them - they snap together - and put them into storage. However, if you use food (against company instructions) ... and it mixes with the glue --- you can't do this. They get contaminated and have to thrown in the garbage. Each pack has 12 total ... I tried using 6 glue-traps without food--- didn't get any nibbles. I tried food with 6....and got 2 kills. The cracker/ PB combo was 2/2....but I also tried cracker/ cookie and cracker alone combos --- they didn't work, But they could have. IDK. The 6 glue traps without food might also work for you. I tossed the 4x remaining food-use glue-traps in the trash afterwards and saved/ reconnected the remaining non-food glue traps for future use, if need be. The price is might seem high --- 25$ for 12 traps. But it's quality over quantity. Even if you don't have mice/rats now, buy these now....stick them in your work closet, and you'll be happy if you have to use them. You can buy 50 paper mouse glue-traps that look good and might work....or buy 12x Catchmasters that actually do work. 5/5 Recommendation. Thanks. Dave.

Was just the medium sized trap I needed for home. I liked that it was big enough to trap a big mouse if that was ever the case. Caught a mouse the very first night I put the traps, it worked great. The glue was strong and effective. Happy with my purchase, would recommend to others. Definitely will buy more in the future.

I’ve caught quite a few rats with these glue traps. Not quite humane, but affective. However, they are capable of learning to avoid these traps after some initial success.

I don’t like mice and I don’t mind having them stuck there to die. They’re in the basement so my little dog doesn’t go in the basement so I don’t have to worry about her touching it or the mouse. I recommend them highly.

This works incredibly well. Already caught 4 of these lil rodents today.

I feel bad using these, but they work. Nothing else has been as effective, unfortunately.

It was strong, but the mice was stronger. It did not hold the mice on the trap. They are intelligent mice they found a way to get off the trap.😀😀

Fit for purpose. Strong glue and easy to use. Excellent size

The needs to be stronger, i saw the mise escape from it

It’s just bad quality item, it’s not working in the way it should. I placed the trap and put the bite, rat left couple of clear mark of its paws and tail without being captured :-(

This was really good

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