2PCS Oldham Coupling Coupler for Upgrade CR10 S4 S5 Ender 3 Pro V2 3S CR10S PRO 3D Printer Z axis 8mm Lead

First, make sure you order the correct type. Type 1 will not fit most Creality Ender-3 printers or their clones. If the POM nuts on your printer have flat sides, you need the Type 2 coupling. The Type 1 that I ordered does fit my Anycubic Mega S (but it would not fit my Kobra Go). Your best bet is to measure the distance between the mounting holes in your POM nut - if they're 16mm between centers, that's Type 1. Type 2 is for 18mm between centers. (If your POM nut has four screws, measure between two screws diagonally opposite each other.)Oldham couplers are probably overkill on an i3 style printer, since the steel rods should keep the Z axis fairly well aligned, but they do help prevent binding in the Z axis from a threaded rod that is not perfectly straight, by allowing the rod to move around a bit.These solid brass couplers are well machined and slide easily with almost no friction. My biggest complaint is that there are no instructions at all, but YouTube has plenty of instructive videos that will get you on the right path. Basically, the coupler mounts under the carriage plate in place of the POM nut, using either the included screws and nuts or screws and nuts you provide yourself when those don't fit. Then the POM nut slides up into the bottom piece and is attached using the appropriate screws and\or nuts. Then you slide the three pieces together. Once assembled, thread the rod through the POM nut and make sure it's able to slide around a little in both directions. Watch a video or two and you'll figure it out.You may or may not need to provide your own screws and\or nuts, since there are so many different printers out there and yours may require longer or shorter screws and some POM nuts (but not all) have threaded mounting holes. I don't understand reviewers who complain about having a couple of M3 nuts left over or who complain because the included screws were too short. If you do much 3D printing, you should already have an assortment of metric screws and nuts. And I always assume the mounting hardware provided with a generic "fits everything" product won't fit.Overall, this is a 2-pack of good quality couplers at a pretty good price, especially if you use the current 15% off coupon, with fast shipping and easy returns. (If you only receive one coupler, contact the seller and they should send you another no charge.) If you're having issues with Z wobble or banding on your 3D printer, these couplers should fix it.

I got these for my Voxelab Aquila 3D printer that is modified with a H2 extruder and klipper. I really only needed one as it's still single Z axis stepper/screw but I may add a second later on. The Oldham couplers look well machined and have no slop while moving smoothly. I found the M3 screws to be a little short so I used some spares that were around 3-4mm longer.

I have been doing some upgrades to my recently purchased Ender 3 V2 and this was one that was suggested on online forums to help with the binding Z axis issue. I did a dual stepper upgrade on my Ender because I went with a direct drive Sprite Pro on my printer and with the added weight it was suggested to also do this to help clear up the binding issue on my printer. This set didn't come with instructions but wasn't really that hard to figure out, remove your old brass parts from your printer and reattach them to this and them attach it to your printer and you have a moving axis to help with binding. It's a really nice set and I didn't see anything wrong with the machining of the parts, no burrs on the parts and the screws went in nice and tight.

Had to figure out the installation and it was ok. I don't really think that it has changed my machine to the extreme because it still seems the same but overall it's not bad.

I was not having any issues with my printer, but I did notice the z axis screw is not lined up right on my Ender 3 Pro. I did print spacers to move my Z axes motor out to align the screw better, that did seem to help, but I still did not like it. I installed this the Oldham coupler to prevent any future issues and it does its job as you can see it work when you move the z axis around. It does not come with instructions so it can be a bit tricky to install. If you are having problems with binding, this could be a fairly inexpensive way to solve your problem.

As others have stated, the VICHSAMWY Oldham Coupling Coupler did not come with any instructions but luckily, there are plenty of resources and videos online. Also mentioned is that, for the most part, Oldham Couplers are generally overkill on an i3 clone but there are some situations where they can help you. If your leadscrew is not perfectly straight, it can cause binding, and these can provide just enough play to help keep it from binding.The couplers themselves look well made with quality materials. Depending on what printer you are using these with and any previous mods, you may need to source longer screws. I got the VICHSAMWY Oldham Coupling Coupler to see if I can fix a binding issue on an older Ender 3 Pro I have had sitting around. I tried replacing the leadscrews but the replacements were worse so I thought I would try this route. I almost have it up and running again and once I know if these did the trick, I will update my review. Based on how they look, I would recommend the VICHSAMWY Oldham Coupling Coupler.

I wasn't sure how effective these would be, but they ended up working out better than leaving the factory bronze lead screw bushings loose on the z carriers. It allows quite a bit of deviation correction as it moves in it's normal operating range to alleviate some of the z wobble that transfers directly to prints when doing long/ tall wall in the z travel direction.Machining on these were consistent and did require a bit of hand deburring to clean up some of the edges to help with the sliding surfaces, but a little break-in and use helped. Tolerances were good between the components that interlocked with each other. I'll be ordering another set of these, since getting new lead screws are always a gamble with how straight they are.

No instructions were included. Fortunately I could figure out the installation after reviewing the pictures in the listing. I'm not convinced at this point that they are a necessity, but the idea makes sense.