POLISI3D All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper Titanium TC4 Throat High Temperature for Creality 3D Printer CR10 S4 S5 Ender 3 V2 Ender3 pro Ender 5 CS3 Hotend Upgrade

imprimante 3d Peu imprimer a 300degré C

I’ve only had this bimetal throat for about 10 days but installation of this throat has COMPLETELY changed the behavior of my printer, but I’m jumping ahead.For those reviewers who said this doesn’t work with a bowden style printer, I’m not sure what to say but it certainly DOES work with a bowden style printer. I have an FLSUN Q5 which is a bowden delta printer and this thing has made all the difference in the world.The original OEM throat that came with my printer has a throughout internal diameter which is equal to the outside diameter of PTFE bowden tubing which means that when the original throat was screwed into the heat block and butted against the print nozzle, it allowed the bowden tubing to go all the way through and also butt up against the print nozzle on the inside, back side of the nozzle. I had even upgraded to Capricorn tubing and fittings but, if I made it past a half dozen medium sized prints (roughly 200-300g of filament) that was a feat within itself. The tubing would continue to clog inside the throat to the point that the pressure would tear the tubing at the teeth inside the bowden connector and basically it just wouldn’t print anymore, or, best case it would continue to print horribly. Seam separation, not enough filament and a host of other issues. I usually kept two Capricorn tubing replacement kits on hand to just replace the tubing and fittings when this would occur. I had never thought about why this would happen so much until I installed the POLISI3D bimetal throat but it makes sense now that I understand the difference in design.With the original throat allowing the bowden tubing to go all the way through, the bowden tubing itself becomes something of an insulator not allowing the set print heat temp to actually reach the filament until the filament reached the nozzle. This being the case, it’s no wonder that the filament continued to clog within the tubing, inside the throat.As you can see in the pictures the design of this bimetal throat is such that the bowden tubing extends only about 4-5mm inside the throat which is 27.5mm in length, where there is then a 1.75mm hole (or 1.76 or so) the diameter of filament, allowing the filament to be subjected to the actual set print temperature within the throat that’s metal, not PTFE tubing, so there are no insulation properties reducing the heat to the filament.Since installing this, filament loads MANY times easier, it unloads MANY times easier and I’ve now made it through about 1,500g (roll and a half) of PLA filament without a single hiccup. I’ve also printed much less but PETG and basically the same results. Easier loading, unloading and flawless prints. I wished I had found this months ago, I would have saved on replacing so many bowden tube and fitting kits.The listing says it’s for Creality printers but as long as your heat block throat is 27.5mm +/- a half mm or so, this will work. You basically want it to be able to butt and tighten against the nozzle, not the heat block itself.Time will tell, as said it’s only been 10 days or so but this $19 dollar upgrade appears that it’s going to save me a world of headaches.PS. I’m assuming that those reviewers who say it constantly clogs probably have a situation where the throat is bottoming out against the heat block and not the nozzle leaving a slight gap between the end of the throat and the back side of the nozzle inside the heat block. No way to know if this is the case but I could imagine this might cause clogging problems.----------------------Nov. 6, 2022It's been three weeks now and I've run through 2 Kilo of PLA and probably 3/4 K of PETG. NOT ONE SINGLE PROBLEM. That would have NEVER happened before. This throat has completely changed my printer for the better!

Perfecto para poder trabajar con tu impresora 3d con altas temperaturas y no depender de tubos que se queman.

le heatbreak s'est cassé dans mon bloc de chauffe après avoir fait un énorme bouchon suite a de la rétraction. Il est en cuivre et non en titane. il était encore en garantie retour sur amazon, je l'ai renvoyé.

Sostituto perfetto per l'heatbreak con il PTFE della mia Neptune 3 standard, in più se si intasa (mi è capitato solo una volta per errore mio, normalmente l'heatcreep è talmente ridotto con questo bimetallico che non si sono più formati clog) non devo neanche più preoccuparmi di sostituire il pezzettino di PTFE dato che in questo è situato talmente in alto che è praticamente impossibile che il clog si formi lì, e per quanto riguarda la parte di metallo dove si è formato il tappo: basta pulirla!Per chi ha una stampante Bowden in cui il PTFE non è diviso in 2 come sulla Neptune va bene lo stesso, fate solo arrivare il tubo all'interno della prima parte più larga dell'heatbreak.Consigliato anche un nuovo heater block, io ho preso quello della Micro Swiss, perchè tirare via l'heatbreak originale da un heater block originale è impossibile, almeno nel mio caso e da quello che ho visto in giro sulle stampanti simili.Non mi sono servite viti più lunghe ma io ho la Neptune 3 base, ho visto che sulla pro/plus/max (quelle con il direct drive) forse non è così facile e ci vogliono delle viti più lunghe (?)Nel dubbio misurate l'heatbreak originale al meglio delle vostre possibilità e confrontatelo con le misure di questo.