🌿 Step into your future garden sanctuary—where durability meets growth innovation!
The YITAHOME 20'x10'x7' walk-in greenhouse features a robust galvanized steel frame and thick 140g PE fabric that blocks UV rays and controls humidity. With 12 double mesh windows for superior ventilation, dual zipper doors reinforced with fixing rods, and secure ground anchoring options, it offers a weather-resistant, spacious environment perfect for serious gardeners seeking reliable plant protection and year-round growth.
A**D
A few disappointments, some issues, but the company gave me a full refund as a result. Thank you!
The media could not be loaded. After only 1 year, the Texas summer sun made pin holes all over the cover and the ties to hold up the door completely disintegrated. The zipper broke and then after a big storm, the cover was all ripped up since you couldn't close the door.I contacted the company to ask them if I could just buy the cover after the cover broke down.They couldn't do that but instead sent me another full greenhouse order as a replacement!The company DID stand by their product and remedied the situation and it is now resolved to my satisfaction. Therefore they deserve a full 5 stars for their prompt service and resolution.Thank you Yitahome!UPDATE: 10/28/2023I attempted to replace the cover from the new box they sent me but the cover did not have any way to get in. It was a solid piece. See video attached. I have sent them a message and I hope we can get this resolved. Again, all I wanted was the replacement cover. Please Yitahome, let's get this resolved.UPDATE: 11/4/2023Yitahome apologized for this issue and it appears there was a defect in some orders but they decided to refund me the entire amount and I thank them for resolving the situation. Yes, I would have rather had the replacement cover but at this point they didn't want to to hold me back from finding another resolution.Again, Thank you Yitahome for standing by your product and your service!
M**W
This is all about sturdiness from a PNW wind storm
This review is going to be more about it's sturdiness and less about it's growing capabilities, although there's a little of that too.It's survival rating is top notch.PNW wind storm (50mph+ winds) + lady who forgot to stake down the greenhouse = greenhouse flying 100' through 5ft sticker bushes, over a 6ft fence, and upside down in a very overgrown area. (see very back of first picture. Yes there's a second greenhouse pictured that also didn't get staked down... *shrug*) Then to be drug by a rope back over said landscape and put back together.The only damage was a few small holes where it got snagged on the bolts holding it together. Totally fixable!While it was in use for the last warm month of September, it stayed super warm. I only had a tarp floor yet my cherry tomatoes bloomed all the way into late October when it decided to try out for the wizard of Oz. In direct sun on a 70 degree day with everything shut it did reach about 110°. Stays consistently about 10 degrees above the outside temp overnight. Does stay pretty humid on its own ~ 50-70%.It was put together by one-less-than handy woman and her senior mother (for stability really) in less than 2 hours. I found it super easy as long as I read the directions one step at a time and didn't jump ahead. (now if I would have finished the process of staking it down....)For the price paid, I'd say it's a great starter greenhouse. For the winter when it's not growing anything it's housing the lawnmower and a few outdoor plants - staked down of course.Do note - do not pull on any of the ties. They will break pretty easily. There's no reason TO pull on them really.
A**R
Cheap cover
Set it up was ok on directions. A couple of pictures were really hard to see, but got it done. 1/2 EMT flattened for a couple extra supports should be used .The poly cover is really thin. Had it up with alot of bricks and large rocks on the bottom overlap. Worked great till we got some 20 mph gusts and it ripped the ends where the doors are. Didn't notice till I went out to start doing my setup inside. As I approached a guest hit it and boom ripped it all the way through. Will edit this with a picture. Just not a good thing in a windy area.
A**A
Good one season use, cover and zipper disintegrate after that
I liked how durable the frame was, and the one zipper door and six Velcro windows were a reasonable ventilation on cold sunny spring days.However, on hot days in spring with sun and outside temperatures above 80°F, even with the door and window flaps all the way up, the inside temperature can get up over 100°F, so I had to actually lift the skirt of the greenhouse on the opposite side of the door in order to get adequate ventilation. It wasn’t too hard to do if you haven’t tied down the flaps as they suggest, however, greenhouses with doors on both ends of the greenhouse would be more optimal.By the way, make sure you get yourself a Bluetooth thermometer, about 10 bucks through Amazon as well, as shown in the attached photo. You will need it to be able to conveniently monitor your greenhouse temperature from your house.Keeping greenhouse temperatures between 50°F and 95F Is indeed one of the biggest challenges of keeping any greenhouse like this, especially if you are starting seedlings in the first week or so of March here in Southwestern, Ohio, where I am at. For reference, I used a normal inside space heater plugged into a thermostat, as shown in the attached photo. The probe for the thermostat I hung as shown in another photo and shielded by some aluminum foil so that the sun did not shine on it and cause an error in the measured air temperature. I also had a very simple fan that I zip tied to the door, entry, arch, to circulate hot air at the top of the tent down to the floor. And then thirdly, I had horse water trough heater that I turned on when the temperatures were below 40F outside, Otherwise, the space heater was not enough power to keep the temperature of the greenhouse above 55°F when the outside temperatures were down to 25°F. I tried to space heaters, but for some reason, it didn’t seem to be enough, that the hot water vapor coming from the bucket heater was needed for the very cold nights. Also, for you seedling growers out there, you might want to take note of the lighting that I used, as they recommend 16 hours of good light for seedlings to develop well. All this extra paraphernalia I got through Amazon and it cost me a total of about $250. Even with the cost of the greenhouse added, if you aggressively grow seedlings, as I am showing in my pictures, you will easily make your money back and more just from one season.I also liked that I got a reasonable one good growing season out of it, from the first week of March through to the first week of June. For that, I give it a solid, three stars, and I would’ve given four stars had not been for the deterioration of the cover, which started after the first four months of use. In my opinion, you really need to have two doors on either end of the greenhouse to get a five star rating, for superior temperature control and with zippers that are durable.The first thing that happened was that one of the zippers stopped functioning well halfway through the first season, but I was able to live with it by very careful use of it for only the opening of the door for ventilation, and used the other zipper for going in and out of the greenhouse. Rubbing the zipper with some paraffin helps to lubricate it and keep it in good working order. Later, just now in the middle of the second season, the other zipper has failed entirely, and I have to duct tape up the seam until I can get another cover. If you lose a zipper, the whole greenhouse is kind of is no good anymore, at least for temperature control and ease of access.The second thing that happened was around the November time frame, about nine months after the initial installation, the cover seams around the arches came apart at the front of the greenhouse. I could live with this by duct taping it up, and I think I could’ve avoided this altogether had I secured the ground flaps better. What they suggest in terms of putting soil on the ground flaps I think just isn’t good enough. I even put heavy landscaping timbers on them, and the force of the wind rolled those right off. If you do a calculation on typical pressure on a structure during a windstorm, it can be hundreds of pounds on one side of the cover.Instead, what I recommend is what I ended up with, using a long 1.5” x 1.5” boards along the length of the flaps, wrapping the flaps around the board, and then staking the board and flap down with the quarter inch diameter Rebar hooks shown in the photo I provided. These rebar hooks are easily obtainable on Amazon inexpensively. In the photo, I show a hook that is not deployed so that you know which ones I’m talking about, 1/4 inch diameter by 1’ long. Had I secured those flaps this way initially, I suspect that the seams of the cover would have not come apart. When the flaps are not secured in some fashion like this, the wind puts a lot of stress on this cover seam, Causing it to first come apart at the ground level seam edge of the doorway arch, and then working its way around the perimeter of the arch. After I secured the ground flaps in the way that I have shown in the photo, I had no further problem with the seams. However, if you are going with this greenhouse that only has the one door, make sure that you do not tie down the flaps at the rear corner, for about three or 4 feet on either side of it, so that you can pull up skirt on hot days in order to keep greenhouse air temperature below 90F.The stakes they give you to secure the overall frame to the ground are just not robust enough for a wind storm of 40 to 50 mile an hour gusts that you always get some time in the spring and early summer from violent thunderstorms. I knew this at the outset, and instead, what I did was to get some 2 foot long by half inch diameter rebar straight sections from Lowe’s, and then I bent the end of it into a hook using my workshop vice to hold the end while I manual pulled on the other end of the rebar. Wasn’t too hard, but it did take some strength to bend the rebar, probably something like about 150 pounds of force I had to apply to it to bend it. I made four of these, and I secured the frame at the 1/3 and 2/3 spans along the 10 foot span of the greenhouse, driving the 1/2 inch by 2’ rebar hooks into the ground with a 5lb sledge hammer, making sure to put one right at each of the two crossbar locations, as shown in my other photo. For good measure, I also put four of the smaller rebar hooks that I showed for holding down the ground flaps at the four corners of the greenhouse frame as well.Overall, I give it solid three stars for one season use at low-cost, but the detractors are zipper durability and lack of a 2nd door.
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