DR. INFRARED HEATER NEW Upgraded DR-975 7500-Watt 240-Volt Hardwired Shop Garage Electric Heater, Wall/Ceiling Mounted with Remote Controlled Thermostat White

First off, this is a great little unit. It kicks off a ton of heat, and if its setup right, it's super easy to use and has some great features. The first thing to know: don't use the internal thermostat. The concept is simply flawed because it's internal and the unit generally sits high in the space it's heating. It means that no matter how high you set the temp using the internal thermostat, it will likely trigger the off way before the space is actually to temp.You NEED to buy the associated Dr. Infrared thermostat - it works great when it's setup correctly - BUT YOU HAVE TO SET IT UP RIGHT. Follow the instructions, use the red and black leads on the back of the unit and run the cables properly to the wall thermostat. Locate the wall thermostat somewhere else where it's not being directly blown on by the heater. Switch the heater to "external" thermostat using the toggle on the back and boom - you're good to go. It works like a charm and is super accurate. I have my wall thermostat set to 50 degrees F and my mercury-based thermometer I keep in the same space says 50 on the money. That automatically cycles the unit on/off as needed. Just know that you still need to use the remote to turn the unit ON once even after setting up the wall thermostat. From then on you only need to use the remote if you want to turn the unit off. When using the "wall thermostat" feature, the remote cannot be used to control the temp. I leave the unit on HIGH - that gives you the full 7000+ watt experience you came for.The thing heats up my garage in like 5-10 minute cycles even when it's in the negatives in Minnesota. It's great, super reliable. The thing I really am amazed by is how well these electric heaters compare to natural gas heaters. Not only are they literally 1/10 the cost ($200 to $300 vs $2000 - $3000 for gas), they are so much smaller and don't require me to run costly gas lines into my garage - which is especially difficult for me considering my garage is detached. I have a 70 amp sub-panel in my garage so this was literally a perfect fit.Also, last thoughts. Use the appropriate gauged wiring. I got a 40 amp double pole breaker and it works great for this. It needs 2 hots and a ground to operate correctly in HIGH - which is the best situation. Some people have noticed it kicking into low randomly even when connected properly. If this is happening, it's a known manufacturing defect with a previous version - so if you have this happening just get in contact with them and they'll send you a newer model. I did not have this issue so 5 stars for me.By far the hardest part is figuring out the wall thermostat. It's a little tough to to get the black and red leads into the back of the machine. The instructions for the wall therm also suck - but that's not the unit's fault. Overall a great machine. High output, easy to install and use, and electric so very convenient and let's face it - future proof. Everything is going to be electric in 20 years. Get ahead of the curve.

I had serious concerns this would keep up a 3 car garage warm based on reviews. I am happy to report this is sufficient to keep a 3 car garage warm in the winter for me to do work inside.The back wall is shared with the house, and two sides are mostly underground with 10” concrete. 3 car doors with R12 rating. A bit leaky at the seams of the doors.I wired it with 4/c SOOW 8awg wire going about 15’. Capped off the unused wire. Using a 14-50 plug. No need for inspection in many locales if you use a plug, as opposed to hardwiring, which may require inspection. If you don’t know what this all means, you should pay an electrician do to the work.The garage takes about 30 minutes to get warm, but I can start working in the garage in only 10 minutes. It’s important to note I have air flow aimed about 45 degrees down from the heater and around the area to circulate the air and mix as much possible. Thermodynamics is a science for a reason. Also, the heater is aimed at my workspace. I have a ton of tools and 2 cars which will be absorbing all that heat energy. Still good.Set for 68 degrees because when I’m working I prefer it a bit cooler. The integrated temperature sensor has some slack in the wire and I have the sensor dangling down as far as possible to get to the cooler layer of air. Albeit, the wire can only go down about 12”. I have the sensor away from anything that may interfere with its accuracy, walls, objects, etc. Just hanging in the air.I hope this helps other folks. Like I said, I had serious concerns I bought a heater that was not powerful enough. But it is. Very happy with it.The only concern I have is the LEDs are not bright enough, all of them. It’s hard to read in my well lit garage. However, it’s more of a set it and forget it.

I replaced a smaller 5k cube with this in my 25x25x9 ft workshop.It is partially insulated. This mostly kept up when it got really cold this winter. I still need larger (and would love gas), but this was the easiest solution to install being near the panel. You need a 40A circuit. Don't listen to the reviewers claiming otherwise. Read the instructions if in doubt.- The quality is def better than my $150 cube, as far as build quality and fan.- the mount is good except the instructions claim the back can't be closer than 12" from the back wall ... well, this is a wall or ceiling mount bracket. When mounted to the wall, it faces away from the wall (not parallel) and therefore it's IMPOSSIBLE to gain that clearance. It's more like 9". Well, I have found that if there isn't sufficient spacing behind it the ambient temp inside the unit rises and the unit shuts off too soon. Even with 3 ft behind it (hanging from ceiling) I had to remove the temperature probe and hang it out the back. It's still not enough. I really need it farther away from the unit.- Installing a remote thermostat is not explained well in the instructions and a call to the company got me nowhere. When asked for the amperage rating that I'd need for a thermostat, I was told it doesn't work that way. Ummm yeah it does! Not knowing from the schematic what's inside the "controller circuit" I have to assume that it's possible for a full 33A draw on the thermostat in the event of a failure. I wasn't about to run that gauge wire to a remote thermostat. Why not allow me to plug in a low voltage remote temperature probe??? I could guess and just go with a lower rated thermostat found here, but it didn't seem safe w/o more information.- The unit randomly turns on by itself. That's right, SEVERAL times I've gone out to the barn to find it on, when I KNOW I left it off using the remote. In fact, the first time I found it on, I turned it off with the remote, came back the next day and it was on again. Crazy. I'll have to cut the power for the off season.- I am very happy with the noise level, despite other's complaining.Other than gas, I'd prefer a bigger unit still, but I was unwilling to spend any more money than this at the time, so for what I spend I'm happy with it.