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The install takes 7 steps and some are quicker than others. I have a small amount of space under the sink, so I had to actually put the tank in the basement and buy tubing. ACE hardware sells a comparable tubing for $0.23c/ft. I recommend buying 50ft extra to keep around the house just in case something happens. I also ended up buying a T-split so I can also feed my freezer. If you do this, make sure to drain the first tank as instructed before installing a t split unless you get a shutoff valve. You don't want your freezer running ice/water for the first tank. After following the instructions including draining the tank, I tested the water with a TDS meter and still had 70 TDS which is actually very high considering the product advertises that it removes over 90%. My tap is at 270-278 normally, so we were at about 70% removed. I called support and Nick stated that it's likely faulty membrane which he sent out a new one with no questions asked. After replacement, I got down to 7 TDS which is perfect. It's not zero, but the water tastes and looks great. My ice is crystal clear and shiny! (if you like those spherical ice cubes, this water makes the best looking ice) Something to consider when shopping around for an RO system is availability of filters and the overall cost to replace. I'm on well water, so I don't have a water bill. Otherwise, the waste ratio would be considered. I've looked at $1200 systems where the membrane lasts 10 years, $700 systems with 1:1 ratio, but difficult to find filters. This RO system is $250-$300, but you'll need to own some specialty tools/bits if you don't have the hole in the sink already there for the faucet. The filters are also affordable. ~$35 for the membrane only needs to be changed every 1-3 years and the other filters can be bought as a package which is still under $100/year. Culligan, or other big name water companies, are going to charge you an average of $23/month to rent a similar system. If you buy their system outright, you may have difficulty finding the filters and they cost $100-$200/year. A family member went with the tankless which he swears by. I'm sure it's also great and was going to be my first choice. If you're worried about the installation being an issue or don't have a basement to put the tank if your cabinet space is limited, I'd also recommend the tankless. You're going to want options for placement if you go with this system. If you're able to adjust your existing plumbing (Be careful not to adjust too much and monitor for water leaks if you do) ,you might be able to get everything under the sink. I used a folded towel to support the bottom side filters. If there's a leak, I'll know and I'm reducing strain on the caps. TL:DR Great support - All calls are in the US with an English speaking rep. No talking to a computer ever or calls routed outside of the US. Easy to install - but bulky! Make sure to measure twice, cut once. Be open to having your tank elsewhere such as the basement. Works on well water, but my water is softened. The RO system is removing the sodium from the water and anything else my softener isn't catching. Ice looks freaking fantastic. No joke- my neighbors are literally making fun of me about how much I care about my ice. If you love crystal clear ice, you'd understand how great this is. I'm sure other RO systems achieve this, but the iSpring has the highest quality to affordability to customer service ratio bar-none.

I love this RO and their customer support. Installation was simple and easy to follow. After installation a TDS reading was 8. This is remarkable as our well water is over 350+. The RO works perfectly. The value, easy of filter changes, and the taste after installation was perfect. The unit has a solid appearance of both form and function. We did have an issue about 6 months in; after changing filters. We called into customer support and Nick and John answered our call very quickly. They had determined that I spent enough time working on one of the shut off valve issues and at my discretion they simply sent a replacement head. That is the entire section with all valves, housings, etc. With the exception of the valve issue, everything else is durable and well built. Including the water filters themselves. Totally unexpected and the best customer service I've found for any product to date. Well done gents and ISpring! ---UPDATE--- We figured out that the switch was not the issue. I had a pinhole leak in the copper tube that ran to my refrigerator. Once I closed the valve that lead to the fridge, all was fixed. So this was my error and not the fault of the RO unit. And still customer service and the quality of their product this superb. Well done John and Nick! Why I buy US made products, second to none.

Had the unit for about 7 months now, and just completed the first filter change ( 3 of 5 filters ), so I can deliver and informed review by now. I bought the unit for multiple purposes: Drinking water, Aquarium & Plant use, deep cycle battery maintenance, and misc other uses where pure water is beneficial. The water quality in my area is good, but has a high mineral content. My home is a bit older, and the water pressure at the kitchen sink leaves a bit to be desired, so I went with the electric pump assisted unit, I would recommend this unless you have _very_ high water pressure, as it will reduce the amount of waste water and potentially extend the life of the RO membrane. Installation was really pretty simple, and the documentation is clear. Took me a moment to get my head around how the pressurized storage tank works as it has only one line leading into it, which serves as both input and output. The tubing is all color coded and easy to work with; I'm reasonably 'handy', but plumbing is definitely not my forte, but from unboxing until first water was about 2 hours, which included cleaning under the sink and removing an old instant hot water system. ( Which failed to to calcium build up, though if fed from this filter would probably still be working ) That did mean that I had a pre-drilled hole in the sink for the faucet, as well as a below sink GFCI outlet. If not, drilling the hole for the faucet could be a bit of a chore, depending on your sink. The unit does require a fair amount of space, so wherever you are installing check the dimensions and be sure you have enough space for the unit and to reach in and work, you'll need access to change the filters periodically as well, which involves using a plastic wrench on the filter holders. I hung it on the side of the cabinet but left lots of play in the hoses so I could lift it off and pull it out into the open to change the filters. I also put a board under the filters to take some strain off the frame. TDS readings with a cheap tester run from 170-200 on my tap water, bounce around from 2-5 after it comes out of this filter, where they were always over 100 out of my refrigerator with its built-in filter. I did connect my refrigerator after the initial install, and you can tell the difference in the water and the ice both. The pump is pretty quiet, the main sound is the waste water in the drain, which is minimal. The filter cans are a standard size and fit, so alternative branded filters can probably be used, but no real reason since the iSpring ones seem to be a good quality at a reasonable price. But if you are worried about iSpring not being around in 5 years and being stuck with an unusual system, don't be, it's all modular and standardized. If I had an negatives, it would be that the frame could use some stiffeners on the corners so it doesn't flex under the weight of the water filled filter canisters. If I have some spare time, I might try to design and print some plastic corner braces for it, but it's not a huge deal. It's also impossible to change the filters w/o water going everywhere. This isn't unique to iSpring or this model, there's just generally no way to drain the water form the filter cans, so some is going to spill out as you detach them. So just fine a pail or tub that can sit under the unit when you change it. Perhaps a drain plug in the bottom of them would let one drain it in a controlled fashion, but that might be overkill!

I purchased this system after researching several others. The one thing I learned was that systems with pumps seem to work better, be more efficient, and increase the life of the reverse osmosis membrane. I liked that this one had a pump. With city water I didn't think I would have a pressure issue, but refrigerator ice makers have to have a certain pressure to work, and they vary, so I wasn't taking any chances since I am running a line to the refrigerator water/ice maker. This system has a threaded adapter for the water supply line that you screw onto the faucet shut-off valve. I had to improvise as my water lines are copper with brazed fittings, not threaded. I ended up using the refrigerator water supply line that had a saddle clamp into the cold water sink line from the basement below (picture attached). I hooked up the cold water supply line for the iSpring system here (red hose). I built and painted some boards to hold the tank and unit. It is very important to brace the bottom of the 3 filter cartridges, as they tell you. The one thing to keep in mind when designing something is that the support under the filter cartridges will need to be removed to unscrew the filter cartridges to change the filters. I screwed a board onto the bottom of the 2 x 4's coming down from the rafters to brace the filter cartridges, sat the completely assembled unit on the board, and marked where the screws would be on the back mounting board. I also used some dense rubber insulation I had laying around to cushion the bottom of the cartridges. Also the bracing for the tank should not be overlooked as 1 gallon of water weighs 8 1/3 pounds, so a full tank could be close to 30 lbs. There is some time involved with setting up the system, but I would say the longest was installing the faucet. It took me about half hour to drill thru my porcelain coated cast iron sink. You will need a 1/2" diamond drill bit, and start at a very slow speed and use plenty of water to keep bit cool and flush out debris which looks like black sludge and smells bad. To avoid drill bit jump scratches to your sink, use duct tape on surrounding surfaces. While installing the faucet, I found that the securing threaded clamp was missing. I contacted iSpring customer service and Richard immediately shipped me one. In the mean time I purchased a 1/4" tube shut-off valve so that I could turn system on and get water thru fridge. I placed a tee in outlet of system to run water to sink faucet and fridge. My family and I love the taste of the water. The ice cubes are much clearer, I placed a picture before and after, you can see the ice is clearer now. Feel better giving my pets this water as well. I have not gotten around to testing the water quality before and after, but I'm working on that soon. Also feel better about not buying all the bottled water and contributing to the plastic pollution problem. I would say that the quality of this system is very good. The fittings they provide are the nicer leak proof ones with locking clips.

Received in a very great fashion and well packaged! Was going to have a plumber/handyman come by to install it, but I decided to help by putting this and that together and next thing you know, I had it mounted under the sink with the water on. I'm no plumber and I got it done following their easy directions. Josh contacted me to make sure everything was well, and I mentioned about the sink faucet opening (flowing) in the lever in the side position and off in the upright position, and they sent me a new faucet. Very nice of them. I can't tell you how much we enjoy the water. For cooking, for Soda Stream and for my home Beer brewing. You simply cannot beat R.O. water when it comes to making your own home brew. This brings the TDS down to a very low level and allows you to "season" the water as you wish for the style you are targeting. ADDENDUM: Recently I was having issues with the RO unit running much longer than needed. Contacted Sean at iSpring (123 Filter) and talked of possible issues. We got it resolved!! Their customer support is top notch!! Nothing like clear clean water again! Thanks to Sean in Customer Support, we are up and running again. You CANNOT beat their customer support after the sale! Really, I've made 2 batches of beer from our water that I would NEVER consider for using in beer making due to the high level of sulfur and iron content (SW Michigan) and this makes water taste great again!! It keeps up well with our demands of water. We used the unit with the combined pump as our water pressure on the farm here is pretty low (about 30 psi) and this alleviates the low pressure. You are forcing water though such a tiny membrane that you better have some good pressure. So, if it is low, THIS is the unit for you, all self contained and easy to plug in. Their Tech Support is outstanding. Nick went the extra mile to make me feel like a special customer when I had a question about the changing of the 3 filters. Here is a company you can get in touch with and respond in a very quick fashion. Thanks Nick!! ADDENDUM: Their customer support is top notch! I had an issues recently (not their fault of th filter) as i had not replaced the final stage filter in over 1 1/2 years. Michele was very helpful in helping with the low pressure in the tank (fixed) as well as suggestions to the noise I started hearing when the booster pump would begin. NOTE: the booster pump is so quiet that when it is running you cannot hear it (from under the sink) Only by peeling the tubing and the pulse feeling can you tell that it is running. It was getting some struggle to initially start up (booster) Michele addressed this as well as the reservoir tank pressure - as in when to measure with a tire tester for proper readings. Overall, I would not be without this unit as it makes the water taste as good as the "sand hills" water from back home in Nebraska. Love to make coffee and coook with the RO water. SUPERIOR! Thanks Michele !

My primary goal for this RO system was to get water as pure as possible (as low of a TDS reading as possible), for the uses of: humidifiers, watering rare plants, medical uses, drinking, cooking. I was previously buying (and sometimes making) distilled water for my humidifiers and plants, which was extremely expensive and a real pain. Distilled water has TDS of 0. My tap water already was excellent at a TDS of about 27, but with this RO system I was able to achieve an output TDS of just 2. That's ridiculously low, almost as pure as distilled water. This was exactly what I had hoped for. I believe it took a few days for the TDS to drop to that level, perhaps due to remnant particulate matter exiting the filter canisters (that's my theory). I was drinking and cooking with tap water before, but now I use RO. It tastes so clean, no chemicals, no odors, like a mountain stream, and it's nice to know there are less toxic chemicals and pathogens in it vs out of the tap. I was worried after reading a few reviews of flood damage due to a leaking system, but when I realized the kit now comes with a "leak stop valve" it put my mind at ease a bit. This valve will sense water leaks and then shuts off the water coming into the RO unit, thus limiting the damage / amount of flooding. One of the photos on this review shows the leak stop valve - it's a gray piece of plastic with the red supply hoses going in and out of it. Note that my leak stop valve did not have any locking clips in the bag with it, but iSpring does include a bag with extra parts, so I simply took two clips from the extra parts bag. Despite the leak stop valve, I went a step further. I have a Ring security system. I purchased a Ring flood sensor and placed it under the sink next to the RO system, so I will be notified if there is a leak. The sensor is shown in one of the attached photos (it's the white disc shaped thing). I got the system with the booster pump, and with how clean my tap water already is, it flows super fast through the system. It will completely fill an empty tank in about 40 minutes. I can get as many gallons of RO water per day as I can possibly use for every purpose. Now I have essentially unlimited pure water for all of my uses, and don't have to spend money and time with distilled water. The pump is pretty much silent. I can hear it click on and off but that's about it. By the way, I did not have an electrical outlet below the sink, so I drilled a hole through the side of the cabinet near the back, and ran a small extension cord from the pump up to an outlet on the wall above my washing machine. I purchased an additional ispring tank to expand storage capacity, and set up a Tee fitting which splits off to both tanks, with ball valves in each supply line. See attached photos. I can turn off and remove one, or both, tanks if needed for maintenance / access under the sink, replacement, etc. If I turn off and remove just one, the other tank stays functional. Figuring out the layout / position of the unit, hoses, tank, etc was probably one of the more challenging aspects of this project. It took some planning, thinking, and measuring, and I was extra cautious every time I made a cut in the 1/4" hoses (measure twice, cut once, as the saying goes). By the way, pro tip: Use PVC cutters to get a nice clean 90 degree flat cut on the 1/4" hose (assuming you have good PVC cutters with a flat/square jaw under the blade). I installed the waste water drain line several inches above the p-trap on the sink drain. I must have done it just right because I cannot hear the draining water at all. Make sure to put the drain line above, and on the clean side of, the p-trap (not below it on the back where the sewer gas is). The included faucet is nice. I had to drill a hole in my utility sink, which is some sort of composite material. I used a HIGH QUALITY hole saw blade (Bosch brand) and use some cutting oil on the blade and sink to lubricate it. Took it slow and kept clearing away the chaff and putting more oil, and the hole came out perfect. Since my sink is very deep, when I fill my gallon jugs with water, I slide a vinyl hose over the tip of the RO faucet and have the other end of the hose in the water jug. Then I can walk away for a minute while the jug fills. There were a few minor negative things I will point out. The first issue, the instruction manual which came in the box, and the video I found on YouTube, did not have exactly matching instructions. There were a few differences in some of the steps (I don't recall exactly what they were as this was some time ago). I reviewed it all a few times as I went and then did what made the most sense to me for my particular situation. The second issue, there is not really any way to know how tight to make the canisters onto the housing with the wrench. You just have to guess and make it very firm but not too firm. It would be nice if there was some better way, for example a marking on the housing and canister which line up when they are precisely connected. The third issue, due to how the system was set up and positioned under my sink and how everything was during installation, it was basically impossible for me to flush the canisters using the described methods. I had to unhook most of the system, pull it out, then luckily I had a spare piece of 1/4" hose from something else, which I attached to the part which lets out the flushed water, and aimed that into a bucket. I don't recall the details exactly but I do know it was slightly confusing and a bit of a hassle. There may have been other issues but nothing is sticking out in my mind right now. As noted by another reviewer, it was slightly confusing at first to understand how the storage tank line works, since the water goes in and out of the same line. It took me a bit to register that. One other thing which isn't a deal breaker but is a bummer: Filling gallon jugs takes a while, and I often fill three at a time. It takes about a minute and a half per gallon. I wish there was a way to get the water out much faster. I use a lot of water for humidifiers and plants, and it's a real hassle to slowly fill up the jugs and transfer the water every day. It would be awesome if there was a tank with a larger outlet valve which could be used with a larger diameter hose, maybe with a smaller outlet on the side to go to the RO faucet, and the larger diameter outlet could run a utility hose or something. Another positive: The customer service was great. I usually received a reply in less than 24 hours. The info was clear and helpful. They were able to answer all of my questions and addressed my concerns, and went the extra mile on a few small things. Even though the kit comes with extra gaskets, I purchased additional extras, as well as a multiple year supply of filters. Use a TDS meter to periodically test your tap water and RO water to keep an eye on fluctuations. If the RO water goes up in TDS significantly, there may be an issue, or if it goes up slowly over time you may need to do some maintenance. A tip for using a TDS meter: Make sure you have distilled water, with a TDS of 0, to rinse off the TDS meter probe after testing each water source (for example after testing tap water, before testing RO water), and ESPECIALLY after the final test before storing the meter. You need TDS 0 water to rinse the probe off so it doesn't skew future readings by leaving impurities on the sensors.

I like this product because it does a good job with filtering the water. our well water had a TDS reading of 420. it is now down to a reading of 23. i installed this unit myself and i will share with you some of my troubles. Problems i Had: Upon first inspection i noticed that the carbon filter which attaches above the membrane had a clip that was broken. since i didn't want to send the unit back, i just dealt with it and secured it into place with some tape. Step 1 has you connect the cold water valve. let me tell you, this valve is garbage and did not fit on my cold water line. once i got the proper adapters setup and had the connector installed, it leaked all over the place. i ended up throwing it away and i went to home depot and got a T valve and installed it with that. i just had the rep from home depot help me find parts with the specs i gave him. i also purchased 50FT of polyethene tubing because i wanted to mount the unit in my basement. the tubing i purchased worked great accept for one aspect. it leaked out of the drain saddle. reason was because the provided waste tubing was a little thicker than the standard tubing. i just used an adapter i purchased at home depot to connect the 2 lines and it was fine. the good: water is clean, TDS is low, Tastes great. no problems there. the bad: i think the manufacturer could do a better job of quality control. the cold water adapter was junk and definitely not worth my time as i wasted nearly 2 hours with it. the filters work great but the clip to hold the carbon filter had to be taped into place, this was because it was broken when it arived. not sure who to blame for that. all in all, its a great product that anyone can install if they aren't an idiot. just make sure you turn your water off while you are installing and use common sense.

We've had three RO units thus far - a Kinetico, which was ridiculously overpriced, then the very common Whirlpool WHER25, which is frankly a pretty good value and lasted for years until the spigot broke and we got a bad membrane, which kinda ticked me off. Now finally we're on to this model from iSpring, which is by far the best RO unit we have had yet. It was the easiest to set up, had the best instructions, and best overall workmanship. The chrome spigot is much more attractive than either the Kinetico or Whirlpool, and it does not have the annoying air gap that the Whirlpool used. To clarify - the WHER25 routed the waste water up to the spigot, along a parallel line to the drinking water. There was a small air gap inside the spigot base, and then the waste water continued on to the drain. I guess the point was to prevent water from your sink drain from backing up into the RO unit. Good idea in principle, until the air gap would start gurgling and eventually get plugged and leak water. Anyway, it's water under the bridge, so to speak, because the iSpring has no similar contraption for the waste line. You simply drill a hole in the kitchen drain line and attach the flexible train tubing, using the supplied saddle. I positioned ours in the basement, in an area right under the kitchen sink. I would highly recommend doing this if you can, because it makes the system so much easier to service, and it frees up space under your sink. I also installed a dedicated copper tee, gate valve, and riser for the feed water, rather than using the included adapter. This is not necessary, but it's a bit more elegant, and I can turn off the feed water to the entire system simply by operating the gate valve. If you know how to solder copper pipes, it's well worth doing. I had to buy some extra 1/4 inch tubing at the local Hommedeepot to get everything positioned where I wanted it in the basement, but I love this setup. So much better that cramming everything under the sink. See picture. Anyway, the system works extremely well. Our well water is pretty bad. It goes through several stages of treatment to soften it and remove iron, and it still has very high TDS. It's so bad that I'm embarrassed to say how high. OK fine, you twisted my arm... 1450 ppm! Yep, that's right - our water contains around 1450 ppm of total dissolved solids. So you're probably wondering what is the TDS after going through the iSpring? Drum roll please! .... 42! You read it right folks - the iSpring RO brought our TDS down from 1450 to 42. That's pretty impressive! This model includes an electric pump, which seemed like a good idea because low flow is a common complaint among RO users. The pump does indeed keep the water flowing at a steady rate, but if you're expecting it to come blasting out of the spigot, then you're expecting too much. Really, what the pump seems to do is to keep the flow rate consistent. This kit comes with everything you'd need to install it and then some. Extra fittings and bits and pieces in case you lose something, plus a water detection sensor which I have not hooked up because as you can see, my system basically hangs from the basement ceiling. If you install yours under the sink, then the water detector should alert you if something leaks. Anyway, nicely done, iSpring! Don't change a thing!