COMPASS SAW 8-1/4" 11 TPI

This is a well made saw, very sturdy with a thick blade and sharp teeth. For my needs, I wish it were a little more refined - I bought the saw for cutting holes in plywood, and although advertised for that, I would recommend getting one with higher Teeth Per Inch (tpi) and a thinner kerf. This saw is more of a job site saw, for rougher work. If you are thinking of getting anything close to clean cuts in 1/4" ply, forget it, it is just too coarse for that job. Even in 1/2" or 3/4" inch ply, the cut is rough and splintered.What I like about the saw:- Sturdy, thick, well made.- Good job site saw where rougher cuts are OK- Cuts fast, cuts on the pull stroke (Japanese style) which I preferWhat you should be aware of:- Does not make smooth edge cuts, especially in ply. Coarse pitch is for for rougher jobs.- 9 TPI and thick kerf mean it won't cut thinner materials well. Forget about 1/4" ply, the cut is very rough.Recommended as long as you know what the limitations are and what the correct uses are.Thanks for reading.

Not a fine cut. Like a very nicely sharpened drywall saw that cuts on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke. It cuts good, but for fine or more detail work get the Vaughan 569-64 BS150C. Best for framing, thicker material, rough or odd cuts. 3/9/2023 Best pumpkin or gourd carving saw I have ever used.

Shark 10-2207 Compass Saw - though not as thin a blade as the other Shark saws, this one has some serious cutting power. I recently had to use it instead of a jig saw for curved cuts in two feet of 1" hardwood. It did the job perfectly (my aim at holding it perpendicular wasn't as perfect).These saws are: 1. sharp; 2. affordable; 3. easy to use (after a short learning curve).These saws: 1. cut a thin kerf; 5. are very sharp; 6. allow you to do precision cutting.And: they are very, very sharp (keep bandages with them - even though you've been warned - you'll have to find out for yourself).I have moved ALL of my other hand saws to the back of the shop. These are a joy to use. I want to have each type (and have probably bought more than I have a need for). You will have to make a new miter box because these blades are too thin for any you have.Some tips: 1. Don't pitch them in your toolbox or truck bed. These are precision tools and though they are quite strong, they are easily damaged. Use the blade guards that come with them. 2. Don't try to "muscle" them through a board. The old adage of "let the tool do the work" has never been truer. 3. Don't place the blade edge anywhere you don't want a mark left. I think I mentioned that they're very, very, very sharp.(Since I don't know which review you might see first, I have left the same general review for each of these I own and added any specific thoughts for the individual saws.)

Good item. Did not work well for what I purchased for. Item for toolbox.

I started a new hobby recently of wood working. I thought that I needed a compass saw to add to my tool collection. I saw this compass saw, and decided to give it a try. I have not yet got a chance to use it. But it seems durable, and sharp, and for the price, I think it is worth having.

saw teeth way to aggressive for finish work

This compass saw is fantastic, in an age of made in china/india low quality junk, this is only compass saw that I could find that was worth spending my money on. Made in Japan of carbon steel and incredibly sharp you must be careful not only with your fingers but also to wipe it down with oil after use to avoid rust. It cut well in 3/4 pine requiring little sanding afterwards. As a Japanese tooth pattern, it is a pull saw so the good face should be facing away from you when cutting. It is also a crosscut pattern so it cuts slower with the grain, but that is how compass saws are by design.As a side note it is also the BEST pumpkin carving saw that I have ever used....

a bit too course; be prepared to waste material