Creality Ender 5 Plus 3D Printer with BL Touch, Tempered Glass Plate and Touch Color Screen, Large Build Volumn 350X350X400mm

Update 4/25/2020: Comgrow has gone out of their way to accommodate and fix the issues I've had with the printer. I dont know any other company that's provided this level of service, because of that I've decided to upgrade my rating to 5 stars. They've replaced every part of this printer that I've had issues with. While my recommendation still stands for beginners, if you're experienced and know what you're doing you'll be okay buying this printer. Especially with the support and service provided by Comgrow. I really hope my issues were a one off, and based on the ratings so far it appears that my experience isn't common. I will definitely be buying from Comgrow in the future. For the record, I am not a spokesperson, brand ambassador or anyway associated with Comgrow, I just really appreciate the way they've reached out to me to ensure that any and all my issues were resolved.Update 4/23/2020: Had to make another upgrade to this printer. The extruder on this thing just doesn't have what it takes. It started skipping and no matter what I do it continues to skip. Comgrow has stayed in constant contact trying to assist, but I'm afraid the extruder is just bad. So I sprung for a bondtech BMG. I also discovered the reason for the bent tensioning plate. Creality had the brilliant idea to place a screw underneath where the plate's T-nut sits, on the x-axis extrusion, so when you tighten the top screw it colides with the bottom screw, preventing the t-nut from sitting properly. This should have been caught in design or at least during QC. It appears someone just forced the screw and bent the plate. Save yourself the headache and spring for another printer. I'm not suggesting you avoid any of their printers, my Ender 3 works really well. I wont be buying another E5-Plus though.I can't say enough positive things about Comgrow. They were very responsive to my needs, they handled an issue I had with the printer expeditiously. With that said, the printer has been a headache. Getting the bed leveled is a lesson in frustration. From bugs to limited features on the factory board to receiving a printer with a bent x-axis tensioning plate (Comgrow sent me another free of charge, great customer service). With that said I've been making improvements to the printer. I've replaced the power supply to a mean well SE-450, upgraded the MOSFET to a TH3D MOSFET capable of 30 amps, added an SSR to turn off the printer after the hot end fan drops below 45 deg. Celcius. I also added a Duet Maestro with the paneldue 7I, upgraded to linear rails, added the hero me Gen 3 duct cooling with an all-metal hot end, and dual 5015 fans, but the one thing I still can't fix is the bed leveling. At times, I'll have to adjust it using baby-stepping, which is ok. I just wish I didn't have to do it so often. Otherwise, the nozzle scrapes along the bed when traveling. Yes, this was occurring before any of these upgrades, and yes I've correctly adjusted the z-offset. Unfortunately, I'm still using the stock extruder (skips a ton), which I'll be upgrading shortly. All in all, I would not recommend this printer to a beginner, I wish I had known about some other printers beforehand (HevOrt, HEVO). I'll be keeping this one because I love tinkering, but beginners beware, stick to a smaller size printer. I'd recommend the Ender-3, that thing has been printing great since I tuned it. SKR mini E3, Bl-touch, upgraded metal extruder, soon to receive linear rails (x, y-axis) and a direct drive extruder upgrade.

Great printer. This is my third 3D printer with my Ender 5 Pro and Ender 3 Pro.I appreciate the build volume that's achievable on the Plus and the design is really solid.However, I did have my expectations set higher since this one costs a lot more than the Ender 5 Pro, overall it's a good printer - just needs some upgrades.I had to make sure that the power supply was 110v ready and it is without a switch, which was nice. I took note that this uses the Creality v2.2 main board, which is not a silent board. Wire management with the 5 Plus is very nice compared to the 5 Pro. The tubing for the fillament is a standard white tube instead of the nice blue tubing. The extruder is made of plastic instead of metal.After it was built, I was a bit shocked by how much it weighed in total. Much heavier than the 5 pro.The dual Z axis rods are nice for stability and they work as expected; however, I didn't expect them to squeak like a swing set. I had to buy some lithium grease to lubricate the rods.In the end, this printer is very nice with a full glass bed and the BLTouch. I just wish the unit came with a silent main board, but I'll just have to get a 3rd party board at some point.The fans are also pretty loud and I have replacements planned for them as well. I wish this was the quietest printer out of the box, but it needs some work to bring it up to my standards.Prints very well. And just as with any printer, check your slicer settings and make sure you slice it right. Often, the quality of the print is on the user slicing the object. I had an issue with Cura and had to make a very simple change to the starting gcode to get it to begin printing correctly.TL,DR:4/5 stars since it's super loud. Had to buy grease and quieter fans. Good build. Nice cable management. Solid performance.

After TWO days of non stop working on this I’m done. Day 1: I open up the box and notice one of the z axis’ doesn’t rotate properly. I contact amazon and then they send me the email to creality. Two days later no response. Then when I start to try to print things1: it doesn’t catch on the bed which is fine I just need to adjust2: filament jammed and to top it off it started printing in the air. I tried everything to fix this to no avail. Don’t bother with customer service either because you’re just going to get ignored like I did.

Disclaimer: I am a tinkerer and I like to tweak stuff. However, I have access to other higher end printers not to be mentioned but one of them is exactly 10x the cost (gets you a second nozzle and a fancy cover) Printing generic PLA, I can match quality of the $5k printer at work at 0.1mm layer height. With a little bit of tweaking, also getting great results with protopasta metallic filaments, tough PLAs, and ASA. The touch panel is easy to navigate and it has lots of little extras like "Z" platform mapping, filament change, filament outage, power cycle recovery. You can also tweak temperatures and print speed on the fly. Assembly was literally less than 10 minutes. A bracket was bent from shipping which required straightening, but over all the packaging protected the sub-assemblies well. I was printing out of the box in less than 30 minutes. I expect some wear and tear over time of the gantry carriages, but the parts are simple and the open frame makes it easy to trouble shoot. So far I have about 300 hours of printing without having to make any major adjustments or replacements. I have not printed any PC or ABS.

Bought this as a bit of an impulse. My other half's son has an old-ish Geeetech but it's not completely reliable so I'm going to strip it down and rebuild it. I'd been thinking about getting something better for a while and this just ticked all the boxes for me.Arrived yesterday and we started building it at about 4.00. By 5.15 it was running off the first prints. I'd say I'm a competent DIYer so not the fastest and not the slowest. I watced a good video on YouTube of a guy putting one together the day before and there a couple of bits that he goes through that are handy to know in advance. Look for the unbox and setup video by a guy called Just Vlad and watch that.We didn't get any of the issues he had. Everything was the right way round and in the kit which is really nicely packed in foam. Just take it slowly and do what you're told.In terms of print quality, this is leagues ahead of the old Geeetech. I don't think that's a reflection on the old one, more a reflection on how far these have come in a couple of years. I printed the dog on the included microSD card first and it's pretty much flawless.My other half works with ceramics and she's been looking at textured rollers online but they're about £12 each so I went off to Thingiverse and found a set to download. I left it running last night and this morning she now has a nice new bark effect roller.All in all, it's early days but my initial impression is that this is a well thought out piece of kit.EDIT: Now had this for several weeks and I'm still really impressed. I've done a few upgrades over that time. I put dampers on the motors, smothers on the drivers, moved the extruder to work on direct drive, upgraded the motherboard to the 1.1.5 and various other little bits. It *is* a labour of love with these machines and I think that goes across the board regardless of which machine you buy. I've now gone back to the original position for the extruder as I couldn't get the direct drive working as I wanted. I've now also upgraded to the Capricorn tubing. The printer still amazes me with the quality for something this price. I've had a few problems but mostly of my own making where I've played and it's not gone quite right.The main thing to get used to with ALL 3D printers is the bed level. You have to do that regularly. Get the first layer right and the whole print will be right. Get it wrong and the print will probably fail. Use 1 piece of thin paper for PLA and 2 pieces for PETG between the nozzle and the bed at each corner. Get it so that you can feel a bit of resistance when you move the paper. It doesn't have to be super tight but you need to be able to feel that resistance. Do that in all 4 corners and then do it again to check that doing one corner hasn't changed one of the others. You need to do this every 4 or 5 prints. When you start printing, use a 'skirt' for bed adhesion. This allows you to see what your first layer will look like. If it looks round, like spaghetti being laid on the bed then it's too high. It needs to look like a tiny ribbon, almost flat, and squished against the bed but not so flat that you can see right through it. Practice getting this right and you'll end up with very high quality prints.Things to buy:The 1.1.5 motherboard - It drastically reduces the noise. You won't believe how quiet it will beUpgraded bed springs - This helps with the stability of the bed. You need the 25mm yellow springsSpare nozzles - Get a selection. 0.4 will be used most but get some 0.8 as wellSpare thermistors - These fail so get a pack of 5 to keep spareSpare heater cartridgesSpare heater blocksOne complete hotendTie wraps/zip ties - get some of the very thin ones and some bigger onesThings to print first:Strain relief bracket for the bed cableTool kit holderCable guide for all the cables going into the main control boxSpare bowden tubeThings to consider:Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and a camera, and print a camera mount - This is brilliant for remotely controlling your printer. I can sit down in the lounge, send a file to the printer and start it printing without being in front of the printer.Smart plug. I have mine plugged into one of these so that I can kill the printer power if I need to from anywhere... even if I go out shopping and see that something has gone wrong by checking the print using OctoprintAuto Bed Leveller - You still need to check the bed height but one of these will make tiny adjustments to the gap between the nozzle and the bed while it's printing to compensate for any irregularities in the print surface.Upgraded the firmware - This is starting to get a bit more technical. You'll need an Arduino, some cables and some software on your computer the first time you do this. Once you've upgraded the first time, you'll be able to do it just by plugging the printer into a computer.*****MOST IMPORTANT*****Make sure thermal runaway is enabled and working. If something goes wrong and the printer sees that the nozzle temperature is increasing or decreasing quickly then it will shut the printer down. These things are capable of starting a fire. The best way to test this is to set it to pre-heat the nozzle and then disconnect the thermistor that measures the nozzle temperature. The printer will think that the temperature of the heater has dropped and should shut the printer down.I think that's it!

Great 3D Printer for both beginners and experienced users. Easy to assemble and gives great prints. The best prints of my 4 printers due to the sturdy design ( I currently have a Creality CR10S, Wanhau Duplicator I3 and a Zonestar dual extruder). My unit came with a branded Mean Well power supply but I believe they have now changed the make due to supply issues but apparently still branded UL certified. One star down because my particular unit had a slightly warped build plate but I believe that most are flat has the QC is getting much better. I packed it slightly with tape which still worked with the magnetic bed and it works great. I really like the print surface although I use some glue for larger prints. The H Bot format makes it much easier to view the print and much easier to level bed. My contacts with Comgrow has been very quick, polite and very responsive. I would buy from them again. Being a Creality machine there is a lot of additional support, parts and forum\groups out there to help with upgrading and sorting out of problems etc. The sturdy construction means there is very little ghosting in prints. I very rarely have to re level bed due to robust construction. I will definitely buy another one of these printers and would have no problem buying again from Comgrow ( This is a hobby and I do not have any affiliation whatsoever with Comgrow or Creality).I have only used with PLA to date.

Mit sehr viel Platz für Verbesserungen ist der Ender 5 trotzdem eine totale Kaufempfehlung!Große Kritikpunkte:- Magnetisches Bett- Druckbett nur auf einer seite gestütztAlso zum ersten Punkt, das Magnetische Druckbett hört sich zu Magisch an um wahr zu sein.... Ist es auch! Bei größeren Ducken wird die Haftung zur qual und wenns mal hält ruiniert man sich die glatte Oberfläche beim abbekommen der Drücke (man bekommt sehr leicht Dellen durch das weiche Material. Jedoch leicht ersetzbar!Zum zweiten Punkt, welcher auch mein Größter sorgepunkt ist: Das Bett "Hängt" nur an einer Seite. Funktioniert jedoch bei kleineren Drücken erstaunlich gut, jedoch je höher ein Druck wird, desto mehr Vibriert die "lose" Seite und Führt zum Druckfehlschlag, wenn man nicht rechtzeig eingreift und die Geschwindigkeit runterdreht.Das wars auch schon mit den Kritikpunkten, alles andere ist wirklich Phenomenal!Sehr steifes Gestell, nicht zu laut bei betrieb. Geringe kosten und ein sehr leichter Zusammenbau! (dauerte rund 40 min bis zum ersten Druck) Werkzeug, Schrauben, Ersatzdüse und Probefilament war alles drauf! Sogar ein Profil für Cura. Diesen Drucker kann man Problemlos einschalten und laufen lassen für 2-3 Tage ohne wirkliche Probleme und die Ergebnisse sind einfach nur wunderbar. Alles von mir wurde mit einem Janbex Material gedruckt auf 200°C und 60°C und stehe gerne bereit für weitere fragen für ein gut optimiertes Cura Drucker Profil!Korrektur 7.5.19: Lüfter Lager steckt und macht SEHR laute geräusche und der steppermotor Driver des Extruders wurde defekt. Der Drucker ist vorerst unbrauchbar und das nach 4 monaten. Austauschen kann man den Driver nicht, denn der ist fix verlötet und den drucker wieder irgendwo nach hongkong zum reparieren schicken, was bis zu 4 monate dauern kann bis er wieder da ist zahlt sich nicht aus. Druckte bei mir sehr gut aber leider nur kurz.

The cube frame makes it easier to assemble. Very few problems, mostly my fault as it's my first 3D printer. The photo is of a 3M bolt and nut I printed without supports and it screws together easily.

I had a Flashforge Adventurer 3, all it did was cause me problems. So I made a decision to have a printer which could be fixed and adapted. I make miniature parts for board games and the level of detail is amazing, I haven't had a print that I went "Oh, well that's a bit meh" its all crisp and I'm happy with the results always.Amazing printer for a great price would recommend