CC3DPETG Pro Filament Bright Green 1.75 mm 1KG 3D Printer Filament 2.2lbs Spool 3D Printing Materials Fit Most FDM Printer Bright Green Color Easy to Print

As with most PETG you should always dry before using. I see alot of reveiws and complaints about stringing and oozing and I absolutely never experience those because i dry them. 7 hours in the stove at 175f. Run them from a tubberware container with silica beads in it through a small amount of ptfe, there are tuorials for homemade filiment dry boxes.

I print a lot of PETG and it doesn't matter if it's top shelf or economy they do indeed tend to string more than PLA filaments. This one is no different. It's a little less expensive and maybe a little more stringy but I'm able to produce quality usable prints without exception throughout the roll. So I would call it a good value. I just deal with the stringing by adjusting retraction and hitting the fine threads with a heat gun to clean up the models. Just a little extra work no biggie. Adhesion is excellent on my PEI textured plate. Simply excellent.

Only issue I had was that the spool was so tangled I couldn't print much of anything

For $17 shipped to my door it's pretty good. The material is unfortunately inconsistent at times. Picture shows the same exact part on the same printer (Prusa i3 MK3S) with the same program. The only difference is the spool, I ran out of the very nice looking blue-gray on my second to last leg of this project. This is the third roll of the blue-gray, and unfortunately this one has proved to be difficult to print and very brittle compared to the other two. I'm going to go back to my favorite brand - Prusament. Unfortunately this requires a box of filament to be purchased from the Czech Republic to be price competitive. My second choice is Overture. Third choice will be CC3D if the color is not available otherwise. It's just not worth the $3 delta in price. You would have to get 6 consistent rolls to break even and I just don't think that is possible. I thought I was crazy and started cleaning everything, replacing nozzles etc. I am certain it is the material - swapping it for some Prusament fixed the problem. The adhesion of this roll is nutty too. I can barely get it off my textured prusa sheet - this is usually not the case.

I looked for budget PETG filament and ordered this one. It was well vacuum packed and appeared very good. However, the prints were first full of teardrops, strings, and the filament was sometimes stuck in titanium heat break. I was about to write a negative review. However, the problem appeared to be in working temperature. I installed a PT100 sensor and calibrated printer nozzle to +/-0.5C accuracy, because original thermistor based measurements of Ender3 was off (lower) by 10-15C. The recommended print temperature on the spool was shown as 230..260C. But in fact at these temperature the material leaks from the nozzle and is softened in the throat. I tried to print at 210C and speed 30-35mm/s, retraction 3.5mm, bed at 75C and that fixed the problems. There are still some (very little) strings when I was trying to print bridges, that is why I am giving 4 stars. But it is as good as PETG+ which I tried from another manufacturer. PETG is still a bit more difficult to work vs PLA, but the hardness and accuracy is better.

Flawlessly worked with no issues whatsoever.

I've been having clogging problems with some more expensive PETG, from SUNLU to Overature etc. This has been the most reliable and has yet to fail a print. I'm glad the the one that works is so cheap! I'm using a Raise3D Pro3 Plus with 90% flow, 235 temp, 80 bed, no cooling.

This is almost identical color wise to the transluscent green, and it's hard to tell them apart even next to each other. That other one went up in price, so I tried this. Given this is cheaper, I think I'll stick with this for now.

The white filament strings like a female dog, has good layer adhesion, good bed adhesion, but this PETG is far too brittle. It breaks like it was made out of hard candy, almost like it has a crystalline structure. At first I assumed it was my heat settings, so I played around with my nozzle temp & cooling fan speed, nope.Next I thought It might be too cold in my print room so I built an enclosure, nopeThen as a final test I printed the part with 100% infill just to verify it wasn't a design flaw, nope.I can break a 100% infill part that has a 25.4mm x 12.7mm (1" x 1/2") cross section like I can break a KitKat bar. I've used other brands of PETG that have more strength in parts half the thickness.I won't be buying this brand again.

This came and it is petg pro. It prints a little hotter (220-260) and sticks really well to the bed. I may have to lower the bed temp as it stuck almost too well. The prints came out absolutely amazing. The finish is so nice and the parts are really strong like tough and flexible. I printed a tiny whoop frame with it and it’s the closest thing I’ve found to the original flexibility and strength of the frame it came with. I always dehydrate my filament before using so anyone having problems I would suggest you try drying it out. I want more but it doesn’t seem to be available anymore. I might try the white but I really like the gold.

I printed a 20 cm tall object, 12 cm wide, and there was no layer delamination, despite the settings being exactly the same as what I used with 2 other filament brands.It did curl off the plate, it was held in place only at the center, and I used blue painters tape. If I had not used that tape I don't know if it would have worked. The print may have failed. I used a brim.Someone needs to invent a filament that doesn't have this curling problem. I understand it is due to the CTE and cooling leading to contraction, but fillers with low cte could be used in the plastic for instance, or lower cte plastics could be developed.

I initially tried to print this with the same settings as some Overture PETG that I ran out of, and it didn't go well. I then just used the default material profile for Generic PETG in Cura and printed a temperature tower, and it seems like it's going to be pretty good, and probably better than my Overture stuff in the end. It doesn't seem to work well with a hot end temp over about 240C, which is cooler than I'm used to, but even at this cooler temperature the layer adhesion seems good. Bed temp seemed good at about 80C. I definitely still have a bit of tweaking to do. Printing with an Anycubic i3 Mega S.EDIT: A bit of time in the dehydrator and this stuff prints great. If it remains at a reasonable price, I will likely be ordering more.

Have to print at 205 - 215c or the filament sputters and pops. I guess you get what you pay for. I was hoping it would be good for some rough .4mm layers with a .8mm nozzle. Not unless you want tons of stringing and unpredictable extrusion. Does not matter what level of retraction you set at. If you use retraction, you get under extrusion. Without retraction, parts print, but even outside lines string in sharp corners. Colour and diameter is not consistent throughout. Will stick with other brands. See photos!