XtremeVision Universal HID Battery Wiring Relay Harness 12V 40 AMP 35W/55W - H1 H3 H7 H8 H9 H10 H11 9005 9006 5202 880 881 9140 9145

TL;DR Version: The wiring kit I received last week was much improved and higher quality. I attached pics for new vs old. Would 100% recommend for a headache free install. Glad to see this company is still around and honoring their 2 year warranty. More details below:I bought and installed this wiring kit on my 2006 Mazda 3 hatchback with no issues in January 2018. Only took me ~15 mins to put everything together once the ballasts and bulbs were in place. Everything worked and no troubles at all. Fast forward up until last week, when I went to turn my lights on and nothing happened. Went to check the relay and fuse first and found out the 2 wires for the fuse were touching and shorted. Fuse was melted along with the part of the plastic connector that is supposed to separate the wires. I can't say I'm surprised since this old design has the wires so close together on the bottom. I ordered a new set because I needed my headlights urgently. This new set came with thicker wiring and several improvements. The fuse is more of an inline style where the fuse is perpendicular to the wire. The incoming wire is isolated on the left side and the outgoing wire is isolated on the right. Also, the casing is completely weather sealed and felt higher quality overall.I emailed HID-Warehouse to see if they could honor their 2 year warranty and refund me for the new kit. They definitely deserve the 5 stars because they were able to do it in less than 3 hours from the time I first sent the email. I will definitely come back again when I need supplies for my next HID kit!

I have a 2012 Dodge Challenger with after-market HID lights installed. After some time I ran into an issue where my passenger side headlight would go out on me randomly and then pop back on later. The issue got progressively worse until eventually both lights stopped functioning. I had installed a brand new HID kit, so I knew it wasn't the bulbs nor the ballasts. Then my next thought was it could be a burned-out headlight switch, so I replaced that as well. I even checked all of my fuses, both under the hood and trunk. Still no change. I began searching online and noticed this was a very common issue. People were getting the lights replaced multiple times to no avail. People were swapping out their PCM's or replacing their TIPM's and all sorts of madness that was costing hundreds of dollars. I'm a dyi gal and refuse to pay the dealer anything because they are a bunch of crooks. I took it to the dealership to see what they thought and no joke the guy quoted me 1k to fix this issue. After I politely told him to kick rocks, I went back to the drawing board. I went back to the original source which was my HID lighting kit and just started over. I re-examined all of wires in the kit and they were flawless. However, once I got to the relay harness (which was original stock that had never been replaced), I was like this sucker needs to be replaced. I couldn't find a MOPAR match. I went to NAPA auto and they were referring to it as pigtail harness, but I knew this one looked different so I started searching on after market sites like rock auto and amazon. I found this one and as I was installing it, I knew instantly that this was the source of my issue. Installation was very easy. Only installation issue I had was the connector of this harness to the ballast didn't quite fit but with a little electrical tape, I made it work. I turned my lights on and voila. Issue resolved. It's been close to a year now. So for all those Dodge Challenger folks with lighting issues where either one or both of your lights don't come on, you may need to check to ensure this relay harness isn't burnt out. The dealer tried to quote me 1K to replace my TIPM and I fixed it for $11.99 with this simple harness. Took me only 45mins. I've been meaning to go back up there and slap him.

This is what you need. Eliminates flicker and start up problems. Hard wired to my positive battery terminal and chassis. Connect one end to factory headlight harness and other two ends to HID ballasts (you can remove the ballast wire extensions). You're ready to go! One note, while you can easily wedge the two spades on the harness into your factory sockets, you can also use your now unnecessary ballast wiring extensions to splice into this harness to make it plug and play with your factory headlight socket.

While the product seems to work fine I had to extend the wires for the second side at least four feet to reach across my 2015 full-size GMC 1500. Considering the battery is mounted in the passenger side near the firewall, locating this close enough to connect to the battery does not leave enough length to properly route the wires to the other side. While the cost of this harness is reasonable, I don't think adding four more feet of wire to one side would change the cost that much.

I bought this because after converting my charger from factory halogens to factory HID. I was getting flickering. No programming was available to get the computer to recognize a hid system installed so had to use these and they work great.My only complaints are both the power and ground cables could stand to be another 6 inches longer. Very easy to install.I also suggest you double check your cars electrical system first though with a volt meter. My car the positive and negative were opposite of the relay kit. At that point you can either plug the cables in backwards or if you know how you can pop the pins out of the relay harness connectors and reverse them so the cable locks match up again.