HiLetgo 12V~40V 10A PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Voltage Regulator Dimmer for Arduino

The potentiometer is smooth, and the board mounted easily. Tested with a 12v DC battery system to control 120mm fans, rough vibration, and excessive heat: despite my abusive treatment, it has held up well. Any speed controller will get a bit warm during use, but this one has adequate heatsinks for it. The soldered side of the board has your inputs and outputs labelled; mine was a bit faded but still readable. Dial is easy to grip for large hands.

Wasn’t sure of quality until I used in couple projects worked perfectly

We try to buy from the Ma and Pa places on here.Being disabled . We need to be price conscious.At "The Mother In Laws Place"It is an off-grid cabin, we run DC on a lot of things .We see no need to use the inverter 24/7.just so you can turn on a light when you come home .We use LED bulbs in ceiling mount fixtures that are marked 12-volt DC only.These are controlled by controller with a FOB remote.The controller is board mounted on our PV control center .We use a few of the controllers for different rooms to control each ceiling light .We also run the kitchen stove exhaust fan with DC .The fresh air intake system for combustion is DC .These are fused in our DC only fuse center .This fuse center is controlled by a service disconnect at the DC master box .We also run two AC fuse boxes on our PV board .One protects various AC 110 volt circuits in the cabin , garage and sauna .The other protects 220 volt circuits from the aux gen set and to the split ac/heat pump and the aux battery charger for when the PV and hopefully soon to be wind generated power are not enough to keep up.We run 8 - 6volt Rolls batteries tied by Buss bars .They are temperature and voltage monitored on the PV board and by the inverter unit.The power is inverted by a Renogy 3000 .It also has a multi stage charger built it with flow through capability .These are almost all protected by Breakers purchased here .We have a remote shallow well system that we use a soft start unit on .It lessens the instant draw on the system .It is all about power management.This is a semi detailed , general description of some of the off grid power systems we use .I am going to add this review to each one of the parts bought on here .

The one I received was a moderately simple circuit based on a 555 timer controlling a TO220 RU7088R 6mOhm N-channel FET with a "SBR40100" TO220 flyback diode. Using a radiator fan from a car that drew 11.5A @ 13V, the unit saw about 14C temp rise on the PCB and 9 degree C temp rise on the FET heatsink after about 20 minutes of use at 90% duty cycle, as measured with a thermal camera. Somewhat surprisingly, the cheap no-name 7812 voltage regulator was one of the hottest components on the board - but still not toooooooo bad. (I'm sure it would be worse with higher than 13 volt supply) Not suprisingly, the obviously cheap PCB traces were one of the hottest parts of the board with 11+Amps going through it. While the ratings on the FET are not bad (70V / 80A) I would not recommend going even close to that because the flyback diode is only rated for 20A as one leg of the diode is used for reverse polarity protection on wiring. I scoped it and ran a little torture testing on this piece because I wanted to make sure it wasn't a total piece that was going to blow up instantly. The edges were being controlled softly enough that the bounces from this particular fan were sending the voltage no higher than about 16V (on 13V supply). The extent of flyback is going to be determined by the inductance of whatever motor you're playing with so it's hard to say what the true limits of this piece are. Personally, I'd keep the loads at/under 24V supply. If using a really heavy inductive load, I might add some extra filter caps on the motor output. Realistically, I'd say this unit could easily handle 15A switching with nothing more than a fuse change at 12V with moderately inductive motor loads as long as the PCB was beefed up with additional wires to share the current through the motor control path. The issues observed at 13V/11A are only going to get worse using this device further beyond its ratings.

I am using this between a 10 amp power supply and a 10 amp brushed motor. It give me a very precise speed control. The effective output filtering essentially converts the power supply to a variable power supply. Would be interesting to try this with a higher voltage supply but I haven't tried that yet.

This module works exactly as described and produces a clean square PWM signal. Definitely recommend.

I'm using 3 of these in my remote telescope control setup: 2 as dew heater controllers and 1 powering a Peltier cooler for the cameras. All three are running great after six months.Note that the three pins on the white connector connect directly to the potentiometer. This give you the option to read the current pot position into an A/D circuit (i.g. Arduino). In one of mine, I cut the trace between the pot center pin and the onbaord IC, connected the IC to the center pole of an SPDT switch, connected the pot center pin to one terminal of the switch and an Arduino analog out pin to the other. This way I can flip the switch toward the pot to enable manual control, or flip the switch away from the pot to enable digital control.

First one I bought is still working, the second one worked but had an ever-increaing short in its potentiometer, and the third didn't work from its first use. Have now switched to a more expensive controller.