Spray max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK)

SprayMax 2K Clear Coat is hands down one of the best aerosol clear coats I've used. It sprays evenly, leaves a deep, glossy finish that looks professionally done, and holds up well against chemicals, UV exposure, and everyday wear. The adjustable fan nozzle makes it easy to get smooth, even coverage, but since it's a true 2K product, you'll need proper safety gear and should plan to use the entire can once it's activated. It's more expensive than standard clear coats, but the quality and durability make it well worth the price.

This is a quality 2K clear cost - if you’re looking for the good stuff, stop here and get this. Used this for my motorcycle repaint job. It lays on nice and wet, super glassy and smooth after curing, and has given such a nice pop to the motorcycle. Dries smooth and clean to the touch, no tackiness and provides a very nice, hard protective coating. I did a green pearl color, the clear gives it incredible depth of color and polishes to a super high shine. Couldn’t recommend this product more.

I hope some other newbie like me will learn from my mistakes. But first: Pros: If you do it right, it comes out great and is easy Nice glossy sheen, no polishing or compounding needed Cons: Directions on can might not apply to your conditions (explained below) Learning curve involved When can gets low (but still feels like it has product) it might spit dry-spray First, the directions on the can say it is ideal to spray around 68d F, with 50% or less humidity. It then states to stay about 10" back and go slow. But it doesn't say if you are NOT spraying in 68d this doesn't apply, and you might need to get close and go fast, if it's warmer. My garage was 80d and "staying 10" back and going slow" was the exact WRONG thing to do. It resulted in "dry-spray" which means the paint starts to atomize and doesn't collect into a solid sheet on the panel, but dries in individual droplets. The result is extreme orange peel and a matte finish, instead of a glossy finish. 9hrs later I wet-sanded the clear flat, which caused some burn-through into the color paint, which then needed touching up. When I cleared the panel again, was sure to do it early in the morning when it was 69F in the garage... Well at that temp the paint stays fluid longer, so it went on like nice solid sheet, but ran and sagged after a few seconds, as now I was too close or went TOO slow for the temperature I was spraying in! ... 9hrs later wet-sanded the runs and sags until the panel was flat again. And finally I had it figured out.... cleared it in the afternoon when it was hot, but got close - about 4" - and moved fast. And THAT came out perfect. Matched the factory finish without any messing afterward. So how close you are, and how fast you move, is totally dependent on the temperature. This is "duh!" for experienced painters, but newbies usually follow what's written on the can. I wish the can would have said, "If it is not 68d but much warmer, you will need to move in closer and go faster." Also, I read many sites that said to do an initial "tack coat" (like is recommended with primer and base). You cannot 'feather' clear coat, or "apply a light tack coat." You will end up with severe orange peel. This paint has to go on in a solid sheet, where all the droplets combine or pool into one flat surface. Individual drops will each reflect the light in a different direction creating that heavy orange peel with a dull matte finish. You need a solid sheet to reflect the light evenly, to get that high gloss look. One annoyance - and maybe it was just me, but I found when the cans still had product but were low (maybe 1/4 full) I'd be in the middle of applying a second or third coat and suddenly the can would shoot aerosol with little paint for a split second, spitting dry-spray all over my previously perfect panel - which would result in me having to wait 8rs until I could wet-sand it flat and do a new coat. After that happened twice I stopped using cans once they felt like they were about 2/3rds gone. Maybe a quick spritz of a small repair area would be ok but I was clearing a fender panel in one case, and a bumper in another. Something to beware of anyway. So having done it wrong every way possible, and having to re-do it and re-buy the paint multiple times, (not to mention base when I burned through sanding the clear), I'd say that once you have the hang of using it in your particular conditions, it's great. And you might get lucky and use it right, right off the bat. But it can require 'practice' for newbies. Especially if painting a large area like a panel, vs a small area or something like a guitar. One tip I read that worked for me: After the can is activated the shelf life is about 48hrs - probably less in the heat. But if you put the left-over paint can in the fridge, it will stay a good long time (months, reportedly). I put one of my cans that was about half gone in the fridge and ordered more... when the new clear came 2 weeks later, I used the can from the fridge first by letting it warm up a couple hours in the garage. Then shook it a couple min and it was as good as a freshly activated can. And no, this isn't the can that spit. (I learned by then to not use any cans once they felt like they had about 1/4 product left.)

This clear coat is beyond belief. Being able to have 2K and a can is pretty awesome and it's simple. You simply push the red button on the bottom to activate the hardener shake the mess out of it and use it. It lays down beautifully. It has an immense amount of shine and it's easier than mixing clear to spray It's easy for small panels and there was zero yellow in it. I cannot recommend this enough.

Holy cow I’m impressed. My spoiler’s clear coat had completely deteriorated, like not flaking, not peeling, not faded, just gone. I gave it a quick wet sand with 600 grit to even it out, taped everything off and painted. I did 4 coats with 5-10 minutes between. It sprays incredibly evenly and it looks nearly new. I got a tiny bit of orange peeling but not enough for me to bother sanding and buffing. I guess we’ll see how it fares in the sun, but so far I’m impressed. Edit: 8 months later, it still looks better than it did before I used this product, but parts of it are starting to get cloudy. I’m not sure if this has to do with my application or number of coats I did or just being in the hot sun every day. That being said, I need to dock one star because I was hoping this would look decent for at least 1 year.

I spray painted something that I wanted to make very shiny. I bought Rustoleum high gloss clear for a top coat and tried three coats and wasn’t happy with the result. I think I could have done 20 coats and it wouldn’t have gotten any better. I googled a little and watched a couple of YouTube videos and this looked promising. I bought this and put on three coats and it looks great. Exactly what I wanted. It is easy to put on and very hard to make run or at least nothing like regular spray paint. I did get some great tips from watching the YouTube videos so I got it right the first time. Most importantly, you need to hold it a little closer than regular spray paint. If you wait 10 minutes to apply a second coat, rigorously shake the can again before spraying because it will separate in the can quickly. Just shake and you avoid the problem. I forgot to shake once and immediately regretted it. Anyway this is crazy shiny now. I can see why someone would use it on cars. Really great stuff. I don’t know how long the can will last. I got my project done over two days. One video said it could last from a couple of days to a couple of weeks but I don’t know what factors affect that. Once mixed, this isn’t going to last months or years on the shelf. Treat it like you would epoxy. Mix it and use it. What I mean by mix is smash the plunger on the bottom of the can to break the seal inside the can. Sounds hard but it is very easy. If you have never used a 2K, just watch a couple of videos.

If you want Professional results on a budget for smaller projects this is it! This 2K clearcoat cures as hard as a rock and is fuel proof! I have used it for years and have always been pleased with the results! Not prone to running if sprayed on a little heavy. Crystal clear and glass smooth. As good if not better than oem clearcoat!

I wish I could give 10 stars for this stuff! I literally made a mess of my vehicle trying to fix small things. When I purchased it used last year I didn't notice some discoloration on the front bumper, so I bought a bra. I didn't take the bra off when I washed my vehicle so I didn't notice until a lady backed into me in a parking lot that the bra had damaged the paint on my hood when I took it to the body shop for repair. The insurance company didn't want to pay for the entire area because of prior damage. The guy at the shop kept saying that he would just take the money and do something else with it since it wasn't enough to repair my hood and bumper!😳 He figured since I had a bra on it it wouldn't matter. I was so upset because I didn't plan on keeping the bra on forever. My plan was to eventually get my bumper fixed now It's my bumper and hood and the lady had pushed my bumper out some. After waiting on the money my insurance company would give me towards the repair I was trying to figure out what to do. Like I said I had made a mess, right. Well, I also had issues in my rear bumper because I was trying to back up with my trailer hitched. I am new to this trailer thing... Well my back bumper was pushed out some because of that incident which would have cost $1,500.00 to fix. I had spoke with my insurance company about all of this and I hadn't filed a report on the trailer incident and wasn't sure I wanted too because of it affecting my rate. It wasn't major damage just minor. But my trying to fix a little spot with Duplicolor made a small paint defect into a large. My husband and youngest daugther laughed at me. They said you don't paint your car with spray paint! Of course I just sprayed it on and had no clue about preparing your vehicle to be painted. Silly me was even trying to be cheep and used the wrong color that I KNEW was wrong because I had found cans of similar color at Dirt Cheap for $2.00 a can. There was nothing wrong with the paint other than one of them was for a GM charcoal gray and the other was for a Toyota Plantation gray; my vehicle is Toyota Magnetic Metallic gray. They were close but not right. I had bought the cans for a camper project so I had about 20 cans. Well, when I first thought about how I was going to fix my paint issues I thought about that paint!😂 Bad idea! A mess! More laughs from my husband and daugther... Thank God for UTube! I went to body piant school!😂 It rained and was cold for weeks and I have a carport not a garage. I know my neighbors thought I was crazy because before the rain started i was literally sandmg down and priming my car in my carport driveway because I knew the rain was coming and I wanted to be able to pull it in the carport when it started. People check out the prices of items before you buy them on here. I love Amazon. Buy from them all the time and usually my first place to go when looking for certain things such as this paint. Well, I can tell you I didn't like the Duplicolor clear coat from my experience with my back bumper. It was a runny mess! I actually ended up buying all the Duplicolor of my color in Alabama! 😂 Well, this was my first time and like I said the weather was a mess even with me buying plastic and covering my entire carport and putting three heaters in my carport. I also had blankets on the inside out the carport behind the plastic. I had to fix a few areas a few times with my wet sanding. Of course I had to go to "grit" school also!😂 Anyway, researching this clearcoat and wanting to make my husband and daughters and all my neighbors laughs into amazement I decided I would purchase this clear coat. A lot more expensive but what people had to say about it and the images I had seen I had to go with this one. I was so nervious because like I said the weather had not been forgivening in my area. Well, after sitting at home working on this thing for two weeks the day came for me to apply my clearcoat. My oldest daugther had been saying during the process, "are you going for a Matt look or a glossy look?" She was looking at my metallic paint that looked very dull. There were times I applied it because of the weather the metallic would just sit on top of the paint!😩 When I wet s no it of course that would come off. I had saw videos where it turned glossy after the clear coat applied. I had used a Duplicolor clear coat bumper paint on my bumper and it had got fry paint so I was not pleased with it either. I repaired the areaa Dan decided to order two more cans of this because I wanted to use it on my bumper as well. I had spent over hundred dollars with buying materials such as pads, sandpaper, towels, primer, filler, primer and filler, base paint, buffer, paint thinner, grease and wax remover, tack rags, compound, finishing glaze, and such and I didn't want to spent anymore money. I was broke. Well, I was nervous because this product has two parts, one which is a hardener. You have to use it within 48 hours of activating the two part system and to my amazement this product was the best thing about this experience! Just flawless! I have a few paint defects to fix and to do my compounding and polishing but other than that I am al,out done. I will post pics after I am complete. I posted all this to say, it can be done but it's not easy... Know what you are getting into when thinking about painting your vehicle but if you chose to take on the challenge. Use this clearcoat! It's amazing and nothing like the cheaper brand spray paints you find. Duplicolor is excellent in the base coat, if you use the CORRECT color!😂 But clearcoat, go with 2K!

Very good quality but pricy

good product , very stable finish

I used all kinds of clear product before but this one gave me a great results and I recommend it to everyone This product is the best in the market so far and it could be used as a finish clear protection on all kinds of surfaces it’s made in Germany. It could be used on metal, plastic, wood, glass and so on there are no instructions on the can how to use except for how long to shake it How to use this product to get the best and the professional finish just follow these general steps ATTENTION: first and foremost for your own safety and health make sure you have a well ventilated area and a decent room temperature then make sure you wear a good respirator 1-When you prepare the surface to apply this final clear coat make sure you wet sanded that surface with at least 2500 grit sand paper and 3000 is even better Use only fresh clean water for your sanding and take your time with the sanding because your final results entirely depend on a good sanding job 2- after the sanding wash if it is possible the surface with soap and water and then dry it with a new microfiber towel, if you can’t wash the surface then wipe it with a clean wet towel then dry it 3- now the surface is ready, shake the can for a good couple minutes then shake it again for another couple minutes after when you bush the hardener through Place the surface upward of it is possible that will give you a great result then start to spray on a pice of cardboard first to bring out any air or bubbles in the line and that way you get a perfect flow Start so spray the first coat in a sweeping motions right to left and left to right If you can place the surface upwards the make the sweeping motions just a little faster and overlap 50% of each motion 4- wait at least for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the room temperature before applying the second coat 5- it depends on the results and the surface you have for how many coats you need to apply but you have to apply at least three coats Each coat will bring the finish to finer look and remember don’t sand between the coats 6- leave the surface to cure after that last coat for at least 24-48 hours depending on the condition of the temperature and humidity so don’t touch or cover the surface after that enjoy a hard well protected finish from scratch or sun and the UV for so many years to come That is all and hopefully this was a good information That is how I used it and I got amazing results and if you have better methods I love to hear it as well

El envío llegó un día antes de lo estimado y el producto por si sólo es garantía aunque un poco caro por la naturaleza del mismo, ya que es normalmente vendido en E.U. Se usara en el ramo automotriz. Ya probado previamente. Muy recomendable tanto el vendedor como el producto.

This clear coat is the best clear coat for headlight restoration. It is very forgiving but DO NOT OVER APPLY AS IT WILL RUN. For best result shake the can for 2 minutes and then pop the bleeder and shake it again to mix the 2k in. (If your doing headlights you will want to do 2 to 4 coats. 5-10 minutes between each coat depending on humidity. I did it in my laundry room which is very dry I waited 10 minutes between each coat and it looks amazing. Coat number 1 is super light just enough for the paint to bond and adhere to the headlight. Coat 2 a little bit heavier For the last coat no matter if it’s 3 or 4 that one has to be the heaviest without running. This clear coat is amazing and with proper prep it makes the headlights look like new. Only one problem but you can’t blame the paint for it, the paint only lasts about 24 hours once the bleeders popped they say up to 48 hours if kept refrigerated. 24 hours is the longest I’d say the paint is good after that you’re pushing your luck. I’d say with 2-3 coats you could probably do 4-6 headlights depending on how heavy your going. Here’s the sanding steps I used it’s a lot but these sand paper steps are the best results I’ve gotten. 3M (sand paper only) P320 (50 percent faster sanding) (only needed if the factory clear is holding on, wipe with iso after each sand to see if you’ve missed anything) P600 (start here if the clear is all gone and the headlight is yellow) P800 (refine 600 grit scratches) P1000 (refine 800 grit scratches) P1500 (refine 1000 grit scratches for a super smooth surface to the touch) P2000 (refine the 1500 grit scratches for a super smooth not super orange peely finish) I 100% would recommend this product as I have now purchased it 3 or 4 times. It’s great because when you restore headlights on a vehicle it completely changes the look of the car. 5 out of 5 could not be more pleased. P.S this paint self levels and gets better looking with time (after about 12 hours your safe to touch it but I wouldn’t reinstall them until about the 24 to 36 hour mark.