4K30Hz Audio Extractor

I run a decent, budget projector in a spare room and wanted to upgrade the audio. Projector has no digital audio out to run to my sound bar, this allowed me to run a toslink cable and push dolby digital surround to my sound system. Nice little bonus is it received power from the Firestick so I didn't need to run the extra usb power cord. This is able to push a signal through a 25ft toslink cable. No impact on video quality, sound quality is great. Awesome little gadget!

This little gadget impressed me in two different scenarios, giving me digital (optical) audio out both times. First, a quick backstory: My trusty 20-year-old CD player’s display finally gave out. Rather than buy a new player, I grabbed a spare Philips Blu-ray player I had lying around—but it only had HDMI out, no digital audio output. The HDMI audio extractor solved the problem: it redirected the digital audio signal from the HDMI output to optical (TOSLINK) for my DAC. Worked flawlessly! (Side note: I later bought a remote for my old Sony Blu-ray, which has digital audio out built in, but the extractor saved me for a while.) Second (and more unique) use: I have a Linux computer that stores my music and also use it for work investigations—I don’t want to risk messing up my work or personal machines. Audio on Linux can be hit-or-miss, and with both Dell laptops and an older Ryzen desktop, I always get interference through the 3.5mm jack. However, this desktop has an old Nvidia 710 card with HDMI out. According to the specs, it should pass digital audio over HDMI—so I tried the extractor here too. After making sure the right audio drivers were installed and giving the machine a final reboot, the extractor showed up as an audio device and I could select it as the default sound output. I sent the optical signal to my Klipsch Fives speakers, and for once I got the best sound I’ve ever heard from a Linux system in over 20 years. Sound Quality: When it comes to digital, people sometimes debate if different devices “sound” different, but in my experience, if the device reliably reads and passes along the source bits, the real “sound” comes from your DAC and speakers or headphones—not the extractor itself. For me, the digital audio from this extractor is perfectly fine. I can’t comment on 5.1 channel support since I only used 2-channel digital output, but for stereo listening, it’s rock solid. Bottom Line: If you need to get digital audio from a device that only has HDMI out—whether you’re using Windows, Linux, or even an old Blu-ray player—this extractor does the job. Highly recommended, especially if you’re trying to squeeze more life out of older hardware.

Old tv + new sound bar was a challenge! Hooked this little sound amplifier (which I lovingly call “gizmo”) up to the soundbar using an 3.5mm av cord (not included) and HDMI (1x included) to the AppleTV (which hooked up to a second HDMI to the tv) and it worked absolutely perfectly!! Literally took me 5 min to install. Had to look up what setting to have this gizmo set at and learned “PASS” was neutral for sound. I immediately ordered another gizmo for my folks who have the same issue hooking up a soundbar but to a new tv. I’m hoping they too find the same result.

I bought this since the XBox Series X doesn't have a built-in TOSLINK port (thanks, Phil). Unfortunately, while the device clearly physically supports 4k and DTS Digital, with the XBox I have to choose one or the other. With the audio selector switch in "Pass" and an optical cable connected to my Denon receiver, the XBox detects (incorrectly) that only stereo out is supported (no surround sound), but it will output a 4k signal to my projector. When I shift the selector switch to the manual 5.1 position, the XBox now offers Dolby and DTS Digital Surround options, both of which work with my receiver and sound amazing, but the video resolution drops to 1080p. There's still an option to switch to 4k, and it works (projector detects and displays a 4k input signal), but when I click the "Keep" button to maintain that resolution everything shifts back to 1080p, and the XBox "Video Info" dialog incorrectly reports that my display doesn't support 4k at either 60 or 120 Hz. To be fair, the root causes here are typical Microsoft arrogance: saving maybe a buck per console by dropping a port that most customers never use (but that they supported on the 360 and XBox One, and for which a lot of gaming-specific accessories (headphones) exist), and then failing to provide a manual "Trust me, I want DTS output" option when their auto-detection fails. And I can't think it's anything but a bug that the Series X will let me select, and correctly display, a 4k resolution, but then insist that it's unsupported and auto-shift back. However, I think there's also a flaw in the way VPFET implements the audio EDIDs; when the selector switch is in PASS the extractor doesn't correctly report capabilities of the downstream optical device, while when it's in 5.1" option it doesn't correctly report capabilities of the downstream video device. There may well be a technical reason for the former (I'm not an S/PDIF expert), but the latter is surely avoidable: either overwrite just the audio portion of the EDID coming from the downstream display (leaving the supported resolutions intact), or simulate some maximally-capable UHD device. Whatever they are reporting when the switch is in 5.1 clearly isn't satisfactory for some game consoles. Anyway, aside from this the device works great, even with other 4k sources, but I wanted to put a warning out there for anyone thinking of connecting it to an XBox that you may want to go with one of the more expensive name brands with verified support.

Only had it for a month but works on my ps5 well, no issues so far

A really nice little kit at such a great price! The first one had intermittent signal issues, and the switch likely was inadvertently reversed in assembly. It was strange how the signal wouldn’t hold and blacken the video or pop the audio when connecting from the Roku device. I read reviews and saw nothing to the contrary and that it worked with Roku. I initiated a return and replacement. The new device arrived the next day. It was hooked up and it works perfectly with my small Roku and my LG monitor of 8 years. Very nice device. No external power necessary. The red and green lights are lit. The audio comes out of the 3.5mm jack, through the cable, and into the 2.5mm jack of my Bose noise-cancelling headphones. I simply mute or turn down my monitor volume (they simultaneously work which is a neat feature). This is well worth the price and was glad to go with a replacement for a second chance. The kit of all items is well done. The power is not necessary but a USB adapter cable is provided and you could connect it to an outlet (with USB to AC adapter) or a power bank. But it seems this isn’t necessary. I am quite pleased with this product. 👍

3 stars because from an Xbox X out into this extractor and our 4K hdmi to a projector we lost signal as soon as we put Netflix on, and I’m sure it’s due to this device not having DHCP stripping. DHCP prevents HDMI duplication (in case you’re trying to duplicate copyrighted stuff). Adding an HDMI Distribution Amplifier (or one of those hdmi in to 4 hdmi out devices) will strip the signals DHCP off the main source, and this is how I got this device to work. This wouldn’t be my first choice if there’s products that do this all in one. I’ll purchase a different one and will be returning this.

I needed a way to connect a low-end 4k tv to my sound system. The tv has a way to connect via bluetooth but no way to connect via fiber optic cable. I ordered this device and it solved my issue (kinda). I will chalk it up to my own ignorance for the most part but I was not able to use this device as an adapter or a converter directly through the device itself. I'm unsure if it's due to product incompatibility with the tv (un55du6900fxza) or if I simply do not know how to properly hook it up. Thanks to someone else's review with labeled photo I was able to get it to work through my cable box. so if I want to play a gaming console or cast through my phone, I'd be stuck using the bluetooth function on the speaker that I'd rather not use. I do not feel that the instructions are as thorough as I would like. The instructions a too concise. But that is a nitpick at best and the device does work.