Surco 103HF Hook-Over Style Aluminum 4-Step Van Ladder - Compatible with 1980-13 Ford E-Series Vans; Brite Dipped Polished Finish

I got this ford specific model ladder mounted to my '96 E350 pass van.Very happy with it wanted to write a review because there are some important tips to pass it forward.This ladder is surprising light weight which is great for not adding weight to the vehicle, yet strong when mounted:It's all shiny aluminum except for the top metal hooks.Although I would think its ideal weight limit is say 250 - 300lbs. I weigh 150 and I would say a 300 lbs person bouncing on it hard may be able to bend it in use or bend indent the sheet of the van that the bottom leg pads rest on.Therefore if your a heavy person and will use the ladder all the time, consider the heavier stainless steel model or a different brand altogether that provides larger bottom surface pads.I added a label to keep people over 200 lbs off LolThere are no instructions (so read on for my tips) with the ladder but it does come with 10 screws (4 for each bottom leg pad and 1 for each top hook) and is completely assembled.You'll probably find that the top tube legs are not the ideal angle when hooked on the top edge, is slightly the wrong angle where they should be bent more up.Because of this not ideal bend, the leg hooks flex the top edge of the door out a bit and the lower pad part of the hook put undo force on the van sheet metal, possibly indenting it some.This bad angle effect is exasperated if you place an anti scratch material under the hook-pads-and I strongly recommend you do.The solution if this is encountered, is others have said to use a pipe bending tool (such as a conduit bender, or slide on spring pipe benders) to bend up some.The top pad-hooks can be unscrewed with a Philips driver so a spring pipe bender can be installed-mark with a marker the pipe and pad hooks so you screw back on the hooks the same horizontally.If you just use your bare hands, you may not be able to bend it or the pipe may collapse if not using a pipe bender-I didn't want to risk it.I strongly recommend cutting some slightly wider thin plastic or vinyl or rubber sheeting from something old for spacers to install between the pads and hooks top and bottom otherwise the hooks and pads will scratch the paint probably down to bare metal and then rust will follow.I had some plastic thick like sheet metal-thick sheeting spacers and used some sheet metal cutters to cut them to size. I cut for the top pad hooks extra long and then used a heat gun to bend the plastic to fit into the hook lip.I drilled matching holes in the plastic sheet.For final screws installment, add some caulking or glue to the screw threads to reduce future hole edge rusting and leaks.I unscrewed the hooks screw and re screwed with the plastic under the screw.Installation: I chose to install the ladder on the driver's side back door. Because the rear view mirror view is not really affected with the steps and I will not be hanging anything from the ladder that will block my view and I believe the door should always be closed when using the ladder for stability and no risk of damaging the door hinges and this allows pass side door to be open and still have the driver's door shut to use the ladder making movement of items from the roof to inside the vehicle and vice vers practical.I placed the ladder exact center over the center window rivet and opened the door fully with the door limit arm removed to make sure there was no ladder contact to the fender tail light.Apply some masking tape on the pads surfaces to avoid scratching the paint while playing around with the ladder testing.Mount-screw the top hooks first.You'll have to use a hammer to make sure the hooks are all the way down onto the door edge as the hooks clearance is limited to the roof.You have to center punch and drill screw holes.Use a small sharp bit first and drill slow and wear eye protection-sun glasses etc.Finish with a larger but that is slightly smaller than the screw's center non threaded shank so that the screw takes some effort to start on the hole and fits right.Test one screw in the hole to make sure you are using the right size final bit.When installing the bottom pads screws, mark and drill without the spacers installed yet or you'll be fighting them and be sure to mount the pads a perfect visual horizontal to the door so the installation does not look unprofessional.The hooks at the top are nice because of someone tried to steal the ladder by unscrewing it, the door must be unlocked for the top to lift off.Hope it turns out great for you.

Before buying I read a lot of reviews about this ladder being flimsy and not fitting correctly and bought it anyway. I got it for $99 before the price jumped up. It is aluminum but it actually quite strong considering the material. If you want a stainless steel version; it is over twice the price. If you are hanging this off of a rear door you should think twice about how much weight you want to put on those hinges. If you weigh in the low 200's and are a little careful then this ladder is plenty sturdy and the fitment is just typical detail work.There were many complaints about having to bend the top of the rear door because the angles are not right. Turns out this is not a problem that cant be solved i about 10 minutes. As it turns out the leader is aluminum tubing but the handers at the top are steel. These changes have a steel bolt that screws into a "star nut" driven up inside of the tube. It was a matter of minutes that IA.) removed the end changesB.) used some painters tape to mark the slope of the end of the tubingC.) sanded down the aluminum to match the desired slope.D.) cut pads from (helps to waterproof the holes) Black ABS Sheet 1/8" (.125") X 12" X 24" Haircell Textured One Side,E.) substituted stainless hardware (self-taping screws) I added a second hole to the hangers.See pictures.

Installed it on a 2009 Ford e350 on the drivers side rear door. Installation was extremely easy and only took a few minutes. I painted the uprights of the ladder black but left the rungs chrome. It looks great and performs great. I’m a large man, I weigh about 230lbs and it supports my weight no problem.

Like the other reviewers, I was surprised that I had to do some bending of the ladder supports. This is supposed to be "Ford specific" according to the manufacturer. However, once secured to my 1995 Ford E350 van, it was solid. I like reviewer Barnaby's idea of putting some pads under the attachment spots. I'll do that.It will work for our occasional trips to the roof of the van, but this is not an industrial quality item. But neither is the price. I looked at an Aluminess [Santee, CA Manufacturer of custom racks and accessories] ladder and decided that for our use, we don't need a $370 ladder! This one works fine, and the price is right.UPDATE, APRIL 2017The ladder worked fine for years....sold the 1995 E350 with the ladder on it, and bought a 2007 E350. We transferred the huge custom roof rack from the old van to the new one....and I knew just where to go for a ladder! Again, though not heavy duty, this works well for monthly use. BTW, I did not put any padding under the attachment points. The ladder comes with 6 screws; I predrilled the holes with an 1/8" bit and then added "Shoe Goo" [you could use silicone or--?] to help seal the screws as I placed them.USE AN ADHESIVE NON-SKID STRIP ON THE BUMPER--otherwise that last step could be a doosie!!

use rubber mounting gaskets to get flawless mount and paint holes to prevent future rust leakage

Easy to install

Sii muy buena calidad

The package I received in the mail was in a box that was shredded, and when I opened it and looked at the item inside it was missing the top hardware that connects to the van.I’m very disappointed. It looks like the bottom pieces were sawed off almost, and now I can’t use it. Not sure what went wrong but I either want my money back or a brand new one without this issue.

Super mais pas pour ma roulotte