Winchester Silverado Premier 23-11-E Gun Safe; 24 Gun Capacity (Granite) (Electronic Lock)

I recently purchased and installed three different models of Winchester Safes. (I wrote reviews for the other models as well).All three of these safes are a nightmare to install and aren't very secure even after they are bolted down. Each safe comes with two bolt down holes in the bottom of the safe and an expanding bolt/sleeve with nuts and lock washers. They are "designed" to be bolted down to a cement floor. Because I was going to be bolting all three down to cement floors I thought this would be ideal. I thought wrong.Although there is a hole in the bottom of the safe the hole itself isn't actually drilled out. When you go to drill through the fire-proofing material your drill bit will snag the carpet and other stuff in between the bottom of the safe and the fireproofing board. Even with a brand new bit and slow, precise drilling you're going to have a difficult time. Because the hole is recessed into the bottom of the safe you can't access it with hand tools to neatly trim out the carpeting.My next installation gripe is the bolt, anchor and sleeve that comes with the safe. It is a standard bolt with a sleeve that (theoretically) expands when it is tightened down into the cement floor to hold the safe in place. In theory. Winchestersafes.com gives you different sized masonry bit sizes to use, depending on the model of safe you have. I used the specified masonry bits on all three different safe models and all three were considerably too tight. As a result, you have to bore out the hole in the concrete to get the sleeve and bolt to fit. Once you've bored out the hole so the bolt and sleeve will fit the sleeve won't expand correctly because the nut has to be tightened down from inside the safe itself. These anchor kits work well when you have access to the hole itself, but in this case you don't because there is a safe sitting on top of it! The instructions and website make no mention of how deep the holes into your cement floor need to be. If you drill either hole 1/2" too deep you're completely screwed. In order to figure out the depth you have to measure out the bottom of the safe and the length of the holes inside the safe! Ugh! Better guess accurately!I ultimately figured out that it is much easier to throw away the bolt and anchor kits that come with the safes and epoxy your own bolts into the floor. Even going this route it is still difficult because you have to lay the safe onto the epoxied bolts after they are set. This means very carefully maneuvering a 300-600lb safe with two small holes in the bottom onto two little bolts jutting out of the ground. Definitely a 2 or 3 person job.Once I finally got all three safes bolted down I was very dismayed to learn that you can still rock the safes back and forth a little bit, even after the bolts and tightened down. A determined thief with time on his hands could, potentially, rock the safe back and forth until the bolts going into the cement snap off. This is even more disappointing because none of the safes I bought had holes through the back to screw into a wall stud.In summary, these safes are not very secure and are very difficult to install. I do construction for a living and have experience mounting things in concrete, using expanding bolts and epoxy. If I didn't have my experience and a bunch of tools I wouldn't have been able to mount this thing. And what good is a safe that isn't mounted down?