---
product_id: 83649927
title: "JESLED T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3200LM, 6000K, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Single or Double End Powered, 4Pack"
brand: "jesled"
price: "KSh23866"
currency: KES
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Jesled"
url: https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/83649927-jesled-t8-led-4ft-type-a-b-light-bulbs-24w
store_origin: KE
region: Kenya
---

# 24W power, 65W equivalent 3200 lumens super bright Plug & Play or Ballast Bypass JESLED T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3200LM, 6000K, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Single or Double End Powered, 4Pack

**Brand:** jesled
**Price:** KSh23866
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Brighten smarter, save bigger — light up your life with JESLED!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** JESLED T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3200LM, 6000K, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Single or Double End Powered, 4Pack by jesled
- **How much does it cost?** KSh23866 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.co.ke](https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/83649927-jesled-t8-led-4ft-type-a-b-light-bulbs-24w)

## Best For

- jesled enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted jesled brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Versatile & Clear-Cut:** Perfect fit for T8, T10, and T12 fixtures with a clear, shatterproof design that delivers pure, undiffused light—ideal for offices, workshops, and modern living spaces.
- • **Illuminate with Impact:** 3200 lumens of crisp, cool white light (6000K) to brighten your workspace or home with professional-grade clarity.
- • **Energy-Smart Brilliance:** Slash your electricity bill by up to 65% with efficient 24W LED power that replaces traditional 65W fluorescent tubes effortlessly.
- • **Dual-Ended Power Flexibility:** Innovative dual-ended wiring design ensures seamless installation—choose Plug & Play or ballast bypass for ultimate retrofit convenience.
- • **Built to Last, Designed for Ease:** Enjoy 50,000+ hours of maintenance-free lighting backed by ETL certification and a 3-year hassle-free warranty for peace of mind.

## Overview

The JESLED T8 4FT LED tube light delivers a powerful 3200 lumens at 6000K cool white brightness using just 24 watts, replacing traditional 65W fluorescent tubes. Featuring dual-ended power for flexible Plug & Play or ballast bypass installation, it fits standard T8/T10/T12 fixtures and offers a long 50,000+ hour lifespan. ETL listed and backed by a 3-year warranty, this 4-pack is engineered for energy savings, easy retrofit, and professional-grade illumination.

## Description

JESLED T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3200LM, 6000K Super Bright, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Dual-Ended, Clear(4-Pack) - desertcart.com

Review: Great Lights! Slightly Tricky Install - These LED tubes are great replacement bulbs for fluorescent fixtures that need either bulbs or ballasts since, once installed correctly, you will likely never have to replace them again in your lifetime (unless you're a teenager!). These are especially useful if your fluorescent ballast has gone bad, since a new ballast alone could cost you more than a couple of these new LED bulbs, and the ballast is completely disconnected and bypassed (I removed mine), thus eliminating the most "inefficient" device in your lighting fixture. Fluorescent lights were long considered to be the most energy-efficient lighting option available, and they were efficient--when compared to standard incandescent lights. But the ballast, which is necessary for fluorescent lights, is the most inefficient part of that lighting system and, although to a lesser extent than incandescent lighting, still converts a lot of electrical energy into unwanted heat. With the technological advances in these new LED tubes, you can toss those energy-wasting ballasts (which often go bad, themselves, requiring expensive replacement) and use your same fixtures with new LED technology that further reduces the energy lost to heat and much more efficiently converts electricity into just the light that you're wanting from a light source. Unless you're keeping small animals warm or trying to keep the dampness out of the inside of your piano, there's not much need for incandescent light bulbs anymore! These particular LED tubes are very bright, and possibly bright enough that you may find that you only need half as many of the LED "bulbs" installed as compared to your old fluorescent "bulbs"! (I replaced four fluorescent tubes in my laundry room with these LED tubes in the same fixture, and I had to remove three of the new tubes because it was way too bright! I have MORE than enough light with JUST ONE LED TUBE!!!) Also, unlike those old fluorescent lights which normally lost much of their brightness after a while, these LED lights will continue to maintain their light levels for years to come, all the while saving you small change day after day after day--and all those days add up to lots of dollars over the extremely long lifespan of these "bulbs"! BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES, BE SURE YOU ARE KNOWLEDGEABLE ENOUGH AND CAPABLE OF WORKING WITH HOUSEHOLD WIRING! ELECTRICITY CAN BE DEADLY IF PROPER PROCEDURES ARE NOT FOLLOWED!!! Now for the technical stuff: These particular LED tubes are a direct replacement for old T-8 or T-12 fluorescent bulbs, and fit perfectly in standard sized fluorescent fixtures that have been MODIFIED INTERNALLY. While some LED fluorescent replacement tubes are designed to be used with a fluorescent ballast (why would you want to?), these LED "bulbs" are NOT designed to be used in fluorescent fixtures that still contain a ballast wired into the circuitry, and should NOT be used to directly replace fluorescent tube "bulbs" in an unmodified fluorescent light fixture! Before you begin installation, be sure to go to your electrical breaker box and turn off the circuit breaker that supplies the light fixture before you open the fixture housing. Then bypass the ballast (remove it from the circuit) or remove it completely from the fixture; the only things you will need to keep from your original light are the fixture itself and the "tombstones" (that hold the bulbs). If the existing wires inside the fixture are not long enough after removing the ballast, you may need to supply more wire to finish the job. ***FOLLOW THE WIRING DIAGRAM THAT COMES WITH THESE LIGHTS, because NOT ALL LED REPLACEMENT TUBES FOR FLUORESCENT FIXTURES ARE THE SAME!!!*** (Some are wired from just one end, but these are NOT THAT TYPE. Unfortunately, there seems to be no "standard" configuration established yet.) Also, the two contact pins on each end of these tubes are apparently not connected, so just because you have one service wire connected to each end "tombstone" (bulb retainer), unless your wires are connected to the proper side of each "tombstone" on each end, you may not close the circuit and the bulb may not light up--don't assume the bulb is faulty. I recommend that you remove the tombstones from the fixture (they usually just slide off) and temporarily wire them to an old power cord (don't plug it in until you're ready to test the wiring), then attach the tombstones to the new bulbs. After making sure all conducting parts (uninsulated wiring, etc.) are safely away from any conducting material (including flooring), plug the power cord into a wall outlet. If all the bulbs do not light up, unplug the power cord and reroute the tombstone wiring or use "jumpers" to supply electricity to the unpowered sides of the tombstones. Then plug the temporary power cord in and try again. Once all LED tubes light properly, be sure to secure the tombstone bulb clips into the fixture in the same correct orientation. DO NOT handle the disassembled fixture parts while the temporary power cord is still plugged into the electrical outlet! BE CAREFUL! Don't let fiddling with the light fixture's "tombstones" lead to you earning a tombstone of your own! ;)
Review: Easy to install and very bright. Feel a little flimsy. - I purchased these on behalf of a relative. I did my first every ballast bypass after watching multiple videos. I knew very little about lighting, though I was confident in wiring outlets and pulling wire. Here is the pertinent info. This is specifically for ASIN: B074M8KCJ1. I know how desertcart likes to lump reviews. These are LED bulbs that replace a T8 or T12 florescent tube, and remove the ballast all together. The difference between the T8 and T12 is a 1/2" difference in tube diameter and a magnetic ballast vs an electric one. This doesn't matter to install these bulbs. They fit a 4' fixture. Something to note, as I found out, is that while most LED replacements are single ended for power, these are dual ended, which is more rare. What this means is that on most, you run the power and the neutral to a single end. The power would go to one prong and the neutral to the other. In contrast, these are dual ended and you run power to one end of the bulb and neutral to the opposite end. As far as installing them, I spent 20min and made two mistakes on the first one. Once I was familiar, it took maybe 10min to install the second set. On the first install, two tombstones were broken, so I replaced all four. The tombstone or keyway are the little pieces that the prongs go into when installing the bulb. If you hold them rightside up, they look like tombstones. I found them cheaply at my local big box in sets of two. I spent maybe $10 for 8 total. If you can use the existing tombstones or are replacing them, you can use the wire attached to the ballast. I believe it's 18ga. For safety sake, shut off the breaker to the fixture you're working on. I'm absolutely not saying that shutting off the light switch also breaks the power and that you shouldn't be touching live wires. For safety, just shut the breaker and the light switch off. Once that was done, I cut the wires as close to the ballast as possible, and removed it from the fixture. You can leave it, but it's just scrap after this. This gives you as much wire as possible to work with. Here is where a little guess work came in on my part. The diagram provided on the desertcart page only showed one wire leading to one end. So that's how I wired it. I couldn't get answers anywhere else. I removed all the tombstones from both fixtures, because this was being installed in a barn and I wanted to make sure they were in good condition. The ones in the first fixture were all damaged, so I replaced them. the ones in the second fixture looked good, so I simply blew all the dust off and reused them. I only used one wire on the first fixture, so even though I had two wires to each tombstone on the second one, I cut one as flush as possible and left it alone. If you're using a new tombstone, strip ~1/2" off the end going in the tombstone and just push it in. Be warned that once you push it in, it's in for good. Think chinese finger trap. On the other end, strip ~1 of wire. Another thing I didn't know when putting only one wire to each end was whether it mattered if I powered the pins on the same side. These bulbs were labeled as working with shunted and non-shunted tombstones. I had to look that up. Basically, with a shunted tombstone, the power goes to both sides. It'll power both pins with one power wire. With a non-shunted, it only powers the side you add a wire to. So if you want both sides powered, you need to run a wire to both sides. In the interested of "it'll work either way" I added/kept the wires that would be to the outside of the fixture on both sides. I didn't know what would happen if I powered the outside pin on a bulb, on one side, then ran neutral to the inside pin on the other side of the same bulb. Running them in a line worked, so that's my suggestion unless someone says different. One you have the wires pushed into the tombstones, reassemble the fixture, minus the cover for the ballast and wires. Tuck them up so they don't get pinched when you put the cover back on. Before you tuck and cover, you need to attach it to the power. This is pretty much going to be a standard 12/2 wire. That's a 12ga wire with two lines in addition to the ground. If you run into a 12/3, which I did recently, just pay attention to which wires were used to power the ballast before. Any wires you aren't using should be trimmed flush to the tombstone or put a wire nut and maybe some electrical tape on them for saftey. Wire the neutral first by picking the two wired ends (one from each bulb), and placing them inline with the white neutral power wire, with the ends even. Grip by the insulated covers. Push on a wire nut and keep twisting till it stops. Give it a tug to make sure it's solid. Now repeat on the hot wire. Grab the wires from the opposite end of the bulbs and wire them to the hot. Once this is done, you're theoretically up and running. I recommend that before you seal it all up, you test it. Install one or all of the bulbs and then turn your breaker on. Then your switch. it should light up. If it does, then remove the bulbs, tuck the wires, reinstall the cover, and reinstall the bulbs. You should be good to go. As far as the bulbs themselves. I got the brightest ones for the stalls and grain room. They are brighter than the previous florescent bulbs. They don't have a diffuser, meaning a frosted covering to make the light go in all directions, but they cover what I believe is a 12'x12' stall easily, from a height of ~9-10'. The fit is tight. I had to push on the tombstone slightly to get them to fit in. The position of the tombstone is slightly adjustable so maybe I just had them in too far. The bulbs themselves are pretty flimsy. They have hard plastic on the ends with the pins. There is an LED light strip down the center. The "cover" that makes it round is just stiff, clear plastic. I felt I could pretty easily crush it and didn't even feel I could push on it to help guide the pins into the tombstones the way I would with even the glass bulbs. Instead, I pushed on the hard plastic ends. Having said that, I don't plan on handling them regularly. Once they're installed, I don't see any issue with this flimsiness. In fact, if they ever get scuffed, damaged, or dirty to the point of affecting light quality, I don't see why you couldn't just remove the plastic and let them be exposed. They're already not rated to be in super wet environments, so I don't see where it would matter. Anyway, I've been using them maybe 30min a day as I feed. They come on instantaneously and are very bright. I saw a review where someone said they were failing after a couple of years or something. I guess we'll see if that's all of them or a batch. Even if they do fail after 2 years, that's still less time than the ballasts lasted and replacing the bulbs is much easier and cheaper than replacing the ballasts when they go out. Ideally, you'd just start with LED fixtures, but this is a good product for those making a transition.

## Features

- 【Bright,Energy Saving】JESLED dual row 4ft T8 LED tube can illuminate your space with 3000+ lumens (>125lm/w) and outstanding life rating of 50,000+ hours! Instantly economize 65% on your electricity bill when you replace 65watt old fluorescent tubes with JESLED high output 24 watt 4ft LED light bulbs.
- 【Plug & Play or Ballast Bypass】JESLED T8 4Foot Type A+B LED light bulbs can be installed with a ballast( Plug & Play) or without a ballast (BALLAST BYPASS), making LED conversion fast, simple and secure. Check ballast list for compatibility.(Note: Our 4 foot t8 led bulbs don't compatible with dimming ballast, please do not use it with our lights.)
- 【High Brightness Fluorescent Tube Replacement】JESLED T8 4ft LED light tubes are ideal replacements for T8 T10 T12 led fluorescent bulbs. They are compatible with existing T8, T10, and T12 fluorescent fixtures, making LED conversion easier than ever.
- 【 Double End Powered】 JESLED T8 LED Bulbs 4 foot are made for installation with a double-ended connection. You can install this tubes directly into your fixture’s original sockets,faster for install.You can use these in your shop, garage, workshop, office, basement, indoor, outdoor, or anywhere in your home requiring tube light.
- 【Hassle-Free Warranty】JESLED offers 24/7 after-sale support, 60 days refund policy and 3 years hassel-free warranty. Please contact us directly if you meet any issue.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B074M8X8CV |
| Accepted Voltage Frequency | 100 to 120 Volts and 60 Hertz |
| Additional Features | (1)Instant on, Non- dimmable;(2)Dual-end Powered Bi-pin G13 base;(3)Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass installation;(4)Bright, high output up 3200+lumens;(5)50,000+ hour lifetime;(6)Durable, shatterproof construction;(7)No UV or IR radiation;(8)Does not contain mercury. |
| Best Sellers Rank | #4,170 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #378 in LED Bulbs |
| Brand | JESLED |
| Brand Name | JESLED |
| Brightness | 3200.00 |
| Bulb Base | G13 |
| Bulb Shape Size | T8 |
| Color Rendering Index | 80 |
| Color Temperature | 6500 Kelvin |
| Connectivity Technology | Remove Ballast |
| Control Method | App |
| Controller Type | Push Button |
| Customer Reviews | 4.4 out of 5 stars 6,022 Reviews |
| Efficiency | High |
| Incandescent Equivalent Wattage | 65 Watts |
| Included Components | 4-Pack LED Tube Lights |
| Indoor Outdoor Usage | Indoor |
| Light Color | Cool White |
| Light Source Operating Life | 50000 Hours |
| Light Source Type | LED |
| Light Source Wattage | 24 Watts |
| Light Type | LED |
| Manufacturer | JESLED Lighting |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | 3 years. |
| Material Type | Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), Metal |
| Model Number | JW-T8G13TCA2-24CW |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Package Quantity | 1 |
| Power Consumption | 24 Watts |
| Power Source | Corded Electric |
| Shape | Tubular(T) |
| Specific Uses For Product | Lighting |
| Specification Met | ETL |
| UPC | 742354664599 |
| Unit Count | 4 Count |
| Voltage | 100277 Volts (AC) |
| Wattage | 24.00 |
| White Brightness | 3000 Lumens |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** JESLED
- **Bulb Shape Size:** T8
- **Light Type:** LED
- **Wattage:** 24.00

## Images

![JESLED T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3200LM, 6000K, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Single or Double End Powered, 4Pack - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71SEFdTx-vL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Color, Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Product does not function properly and makes strange noises, flashes.**
A: The above situations are all caused by incompatibility with the ballast in the existing fixtures. You need to remove it or reach us to solve it for you.

**Q: Product lights up for a short time and then goes out.**
A: It is caused by incompatibility with the ballast in the existing fixtures. You need to remove it or reach us to solve it for you.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great Lights! Slightly Tricky Install
*by R***O on December 16, 2019*

These LED tubes are great replacement bulbs for fluorescent fixtures that need either bulbs or ballasts since, once installed correctly, you will likely never have to replace them again in your lifetime (unless you're a teenager!). These are especially useful if your fluorescent ballast has gone bad, since a new ballast alone could cost you more than a couple of these new LED bulbs, and the ballast is completely disconnected and bypassed (I removed mine), thus eliminating the most "inefficient" device in your lighting fixture. Fluorescent lights were long considered to be the most energy-efficient lighting option available, and they were efficient--when compared to standard incandescent lights. But the ballast, which is necessary for fluorescent lights, is the most inefficient part of that lighting system and, although to a lesser extent than incandescent lighting, still converts a lot of electrical energy into unwanted heat. With the technological advances in these new LED tubes, you can toss those energy-wasting ballasts (which often go bad, themselves, requiring expensive replacement) and use your same fixtures with new LED technology that further reduces the energy lost to heat and much more efficiently converts electricity into just the light that you're wanting from a light source. Unless you're keeping small animals warm or trying to keep the dampness out of the inside of your piano, there's not much need for incandescent light bulbs anymore! These particular LED tubes are very bright, and possibly bright enough that you may find that you only need half as many of the LED "bulbs" installed as compared to your old fluorescent "bulbs"! (I replaced four fluorescent tubes in my laundry room with these LED tubes in the same fixture, and I had to remove three of the new tubes because it was way too bright! I have MORE than enough light with JUST ONE LED TUBE!!!) Also, unlike those old fluorescent lights which normally lost much of their brightness after a while, these LED lights will continue to maintain their light levels for years to come, all the while saving you small change day after day after day--and all those days add up to lots of dollars over the extremely long lifespan of these "bulbs"! BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES, BE SURE YOU ARE KNOWLEDGEABLE ENOUGH AND CAPABLE OF WORKING WITH HOUSEHOLD WIRING! ELECTRICITY CAN BE DEADLY IF PROPER PROCEDURES ARE NOT FOLLOWED!!! Now for the technical stuff: These particular LED tubes are a direct replacement for old T-8 or T-12 fluorescent bulbs, and fit perfectly in standard sized fluorescent fixtures that have been MODIFIED INTERNALLY. While some LED fluorescent replacement tubes are designed to be used with a fluorescent ballast (why would you want to?), these LED "bulbs" are NOT designed to be used in fluorescent fixtures that still contain a ballast wired into the circuitry, and should NOT be used to directly replace fluorescent tube "bulbs" in an unmodified fluorescent light fixture! Before you begin installation, be sure to go to your electrical breaker box and turn off the circuit breaker that supplies the light fixture before you open the fixture housing. Then bypass the ballast (remove it from the circuit) or remove it completely from the fixture; the only things you will need to keep from your original light are the fixture itself and the "tombstones" (that hold the bulbs). If the existing wires inside the fixture are not long enough after removing the ballast, you may need to supply more wire to finish the job. ***FOLLOW THE WIRING DIAGRAM THAT COMES WITH THESE LIGHTS, because NOT ALL LED REPLACEMENT TUBES FOR FLUORESCENT FIXTURES ARE THE SAME!!!*** (Some are wired from just one end, but these are NOT THAT TYPE. Unfortunately, there seems to be no "standard" configuration established yet.) Also, the two contact pins on each end of these tubes are apparently not connected, so just because you have one service wire connected to each end "tombstone" (bulb retainer), unless your wires are connected to the proper side of each "tombstone" on each end, you may not close the circuit and the bulb may not light up--don't assume the bulb is faulty. I recommend that you remove the tombstones from the fixture (they usually just slide off) and temporarily wire them to an old power cord (don't plug it in until you're ready to test the wiring), then attach the tombstones to the new bulbs. After making sure all conducting parts (uninsulated wiring, etc.) are safely away from any conducting material (including flooring), plug the power cord into a wall outlet. If all the bulbs do not light up, unplug the power cord and reroute the tombstone wiring or use "jumpers" to supply electricity to the unpowered sides of the tombstones. Then plug the temporary power cord in and try again. Once all LED tubes light properly, be sure to secure the tombstone bulb clips into the fixture in the same correct orientation. DO NOT handle the disassembled fixture parts while the temporary power cord is still plugged into the electrical outlet! BE CAREFUL! Don't let fiddling with the light fixture's "tombstones" lead to you earning a tombstone of your own! ;)

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy to install and very bright. Feel a little flimsy.
*by J***N on August 3, 2021*

I purchased these on behalf of a relative. I did my first every ballast bypass after watching multiple videos. I knew very little about lighting, though I was confident in wiring outlets and pulling wire. Here is the pertinent info. This is specifically for ASIN: B074M8KCJ1. I know how amazon likes to lump reviews. These are LED bulbs that replace a T8 or T12 florescent tube, and remove the ballast all together. The difference between the T8 and T12 is a 1/2" difference in tube diameter and a magnetic ballast vs an electric one. This doesn't matter to install these bulbs. They fit a 4' fixture. Something to note, as I found out, is that while most LED replacements are single ended for power, these are dual ended, which is more rare. What this means is that on most, you run the power and the neutral to a single end. The power would go to one prong and the neutral to the other. In contrast, these are dual ended and you run power to one end of the bulb and neutral to the opposite end. As far as installing them, I spent 20min and made two mistakes on the first one. Once I was familiar, it took maybe 10min to install the second set. On the first install, two tombstones were broken, so I replaced all four. The tombstone or keyway are the little pieces that the prongs go into when installing the bulb. If you hold them rightside up, they look like tombstones. I found them cheaply at my local big box in sets of two. I spent maybe $10 for 8 total. If you can use the existing tombstones or are replacing them, you can use the wire attached to the ballast. I believe it's 18ga. For safety sake, shut off the breaker to the fixture you're working on. I'm absolutely not saying that shutting off the light switch also breaks the power and that you shouldn't be touching live wires. For safety, just shut the breaker and the light switch off. Once that was done, I cut the wires as close to the ballast as possible, and removed it from the fixture. You can leave it, but it's just scrap after this. This gives you as much wire as possible to work with. Here is where a little guess work came in on my part. The diagram provided on the amazon page only showed one wire leading to one end. So that's how I wired it. I couldn't get answers anywhere else. I removed all the tombstones from both fixtures, because this was being installed in a barn and I wanted to make sure they were in good condition. The ones in the first fixture were all damaged, so I replaced them. the ones in the second fixture looked good, so I simply blew all the dust off and reused them. I only used one wire on the first fixture, so even though I had two wires to each tombstone on the second one, I cut one as flush as possible and left it alone. If you're using a new tombstone, strip ~1/2" off the end going in the tombstone and just push it in. Be warned that once you push it in, it's in for good. Think chinese finger trap. On the other end, strip ~1 of wire. Another thing I didn't know when putting only one wire to each end was whether it mattered if I powered the pins on the same side. These bulbs were labeled as working with shunted and non-shunted tombstones. I had to look that up. Basically, with a shunted tombstone, the power goes to both sides. It'll power both pins with one power wire. With a non-shunted, it only powers the side you add a wire to. So if you want both sides powered, you need to run a wire to both sides. In the interested of "it'll work either way" I added/kept the wires that would be to the outside of the fixture on both sides. I didn't know what would happen if I powered the outside pin on a bulb, on one side, then ran neutral to the inside pin on the other side of the same bulb. Running them in a line worked, so that's my suggestion unless someone says different. One you have the wires pushed into the tombstones, reassemble the fixture, minus the cover for the ballast and wires. Tuck them up so they don't get pinched when you put the cover back on. Before you tuck and cover, you need to attach it to the power. This is pretty much going to be a standard 12/2 wire. That's a 12ga wire with two lines in addition to the ground. If you run into a 12/3, which I did recently, just pay attention to which wires were used to power the ballast before. Any wires you aren't using should be trimmed flush to the tombstone or put a wire nut and maybe some electrical tape on them for saftey. Wire the neutral first by picking the two wired ends (one from each bulb), and placing them inline with the white neutral power wire, with the ends even. Grip by the insulated covers. Push on a wire nut and keep twisting till it stops. Give it a tug to make sure it's solid. Now repeat on the hot wire. Grab the wires from the opposite end of the bulbs and wire them to the hot. Once this is done, you're theoretically up and running. I recommend that before you seal it all up, you test it. Install one or all of the bulbs and then turn your breaker on. Then your switch. it should light up. If it does, then remove the bulbs, tuck the wires, reinstall the cover, and reinstall the bulbs. You should be good to go. As far as the bulbs themselves. I got the brightest ones for the stalls and grain room. They are brighter than the previous florescent bulbs. They don't have a diffuser, meaning a frosted covering to make the light go in all directions, but they cover what I believe is a 12'x12' stall easily, from a height of ~9-10'. The fit is tight. I had to push on the tombstone slightly to get them to fit in. The position of the tombstone is slightly adjustable so maybe I just had them in too far. The bulbs themselves are pretty flimsy. They have hard plastic on the ends with the pins. There is an LED light strip down the center. The "cover" that makes it round is just stiff, clear plastic. I felt I could pretty easily crush it and didn't even feel I could push on it to help guide the pins into the tombstones the way I would with even the glass bulbs. Instead, I pushed on the hard plastic ends. Having said that, I don't plan on handling them regularly. Once they're installed, I don't see any issue with this flimsiness. In fact, if they ever get scuffed, damaged, or dirty to the point of affecting light quality, I don't see why you couldn't just remove the plastic and let them be exposed. They're already not rated to be in super wet environments, so I don't see where it would matter. Anyway, I've been using them maybe 30min a day as I feed. They come on instantaneously and are very bright. I saw a review where someone said they were failing after a couple of years or something. I guess we'll see if that's all of them or a batch. Even if they do fail after 2 years, that's still less time than the ballasts lasted and replacing the bulbs is much easier and cheaper than replacing the ballasts when they go out. Ideally, you'd just start with LED fixtures, but this is a good product for those making a transition.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ UPDATED 1/22/19 --- Insufficient Packaging!
*by G***. on January 18, 2019*

UPDATED 1/22/19 After being so disappointed by the initial product delivery and leaving the negative review below on 1/18/19, I felt the need to update my feedback after dealing with JESLED customer service over the past few days. Amazon processed my return request for the 8 tubes the evening of 1/18/19, the next morning I received an email from JESLED (John Chiu) asking if the shipment I received was okay. I proceeded to explain that 7 of the 8 tubes were broken upon arrival and that I felt the packaging was inadequate. I also stated that I was even more upset because I already rewired the three two-bulb fixtures in my garage to utilize the LED tubes and now I was stuck without lights unless I re-installed the ballasts, which I was not going to do. John replied offering to send me a 12 pack of tubes at a 20% discount. I replied stating that I only needed six tubes, and was going to keep the original two extra as spares and that I was not comfortable purchasing these tubes again due to the 87.5% broken product rate of the first shipment. I couldn’t help but think the replacements would arrive broken as well. I also said that if they were willing to provide free replacements that were undamaged and operational that I would be willing to update the below review to reflect the company standing behind their products and willingness to ensure customer satisfaction. I did not expect JESLED to be willing to provide the free tubes, I figured the conversation was over at this point. I COULDN’T HAVE BEEN MORE WRONG!! On 1/20/19, John replied and stated that they were highly concerned with their customer’s experience and that the 8 replacement tubes were on their way! I received the replacement tubes on 1/21/19. Upon opening the packaging, I found that all 8 tubes were unbroken and appeared to be perfect working order. I proceeded to install all eight tubes to ensure they all worked and unfortunately, I found that two tubes were not operational. There is nothing obviously wrong with them, but they will not illuminate when energized. I even tried moving them to different fixtures to ensure there wasn’t something else causing the issue, but that didn’t help. I replied to John to let him know what I found with the new tubes. Today (1/22/19), John has stated he will send another 4 pack of tubes to replace the two faulty tubes. With the company being so willing to stand behind their product and provide replacements to ensure their customers are satisfied, I felt compelled to update my review to 5 stars. The tubes that work, work great! They are much, much brighter than the old fluorescent tubes, and the 5000K color is perfect for the garage! Also, these lights turn on instantly, zero delay at all! As a side note, right after requesting the initial return, I purchased Hyperikon tubes to replace these, not expecting to be contacted by JESLED. I can honestly say, in my opinion, these tubes are slightly brighter than the 5000K Hyperikon tubes and definitely turn on quicker. The Hyperikon tubes had a slight delay, maybe a second or less, but noticeable. For the sake of honesty, I will say the Hyperikon tubes “felt” a little more solid, like the materials were a slightly higher quality, but in my opinion, not enough to warrant the difference in price, especially considering the lag in turning on. I will be returning the Hyperikon tubes, in favor of the JESLED tubes. I also attached a picture of these tubes when lit, just for reference, keep in mind this picture was during the day and the garage was not dark due to the windows. I still think there may be room for improvement in quality assurance and packaging, but after the initial disappointment, I have to say the customer service and products are great! For the value, I would recommend giving JESLED a shot, and if something is wrong, don’t hesitate to reach out to their great customer service. Original Review - 1/17/19 I ordered two sets of four (8 total) of these lights. Figured the reviews were great (even though there weren't a ton of reviews) and for the price they were worth a shot. I should have known better. The lights arrived in two packages, four in each. I opened the boxes and at first glance everything seemed good. I rewired the first light fixture and was ready to test out the new lights. When I went to remove the protective caps from the ends, I noticed the pins we're pushed into the fixture slightly. Turns out the plastic around the pins was broke. Looked at the rest and 3 of 4 lights were all broken on the same end in that shipment. Must have been dropped or something but the foam in the end of the box is completely inadequate to protect the overly thin plastic. I proceeded to open the second box and guess what... All four of those lights were broke in the same place. To summarize, 7 of 8 lights broke upon delivery. This is just completely unacceptable.. did I mention I already rewired my fixture so I can't just pop the fluorescent tubes back in.. Fortunately I am able to return the broken items for free but with an 87.5% failure rate on the the first attempt, there is no way I could allow myself to have replacements sent. I can't believe the end result would be any different! Hopefully this is an isolated incident. Order at your own risk and good luck!! I ordered some of the Hyperikon bulbs with far more reviews. Hopefully I will have better luck with them!! Pictures if the damage and 'protective' foam are attached.

## Frequently Bought Together

- JESLED T8 LED 4FT Type A+B Light Bulbs, 24W(65W Equivalent), 3000LM, 6000K Super Bright, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 4 Foot LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, ETL Listed, Dual-Ended, Clear(4-Pack)
- JESLED T8 LED Type A+B Tube Light 3FT, 2520LM, 18W(45W Equivalent), 6000K, Plug and Play or Ballast Bypass, 36 Inch F30T12 Fluorescent Bulb Replacement, Dual Ended, 36” Lighting Tube Fixture (4-Pack)

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