---
product_id: 63235082
title: "CRC 401232"
brand: "k & w"
price: "KSh31837"
currency: KES
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 5
category: "K & W"
url: https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/63235082-crc-401232
store_origin: KE
region: Kenya
---

# Permanent hardening bond Auto-grade durability Nanotech crack filler CRC 401232

**Brand:** k & w
**Price:** KSh31837
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> 🔧 Seal the deal with nanotech precision—don’t let leaks slow your hustle!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** CRC 401232 by k & w
- **How much does it cost?** KSh31837 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.co.ke](https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/63235082-crc-401232)

## Best For

- k & w enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted k & w brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Eco-Aware Formula:** Effective yet mindful of environmental impact with lasting aquatic effects
- • **Permanent Surface Bond:** Creates a rock-solid, long-lasting seal that won’t let you down
- • **Proactive Leak Defense:** Ideal for emergency fixes or extending vehicle life on the go
- • **Versatile Automotive Use:** Trusted for cars, buses, and trucks—engineered for heavy-duty performance
- • **Nanotechnology-Powered Seal:** Fills microscopic cracks & crevices others miss for unbeatable coverage

## Overview

CRC 401232 leverages advanced nanotechnology to penetrate and fill cracks and crevices, forming a permanent, hardened bond ideal for automotive applications including cars, buses, and trucks. While it offers a durable seal, users should prep their cooling systems thoroughly for best results. This product is designed for professionals and DIYers seeking a high-tech, reliable stopgap or repair solution.

## Description

Using Nanotechnology, this product fills in cracks & crevices other products can''t, making a stronger, more solid bond that''s permanently hardened to the surface area.

Review: This product did not work and I see this as a waste of Money, will never recommend this any one in the future
Review: I will preface this by saying that what worked for me isn't a guarantee that it will work for you. But, depending on how bad your leak issue is, it's worth a try if money is tight. My '96 Civic DX had an intermittent issue where, on long drives, the coolant would go from the radiator to the overflow bottle, but not back to the bottle when it cooled down. There were bubbles in the coolant when at idle; it looked like a cherry soda or champagne, very small, but bubbles nonetheless. I don't have access to a block tester, but I figured that was all the proof I needed that something was up. Do note, the car was NOT burning coolant, and I could effectively pour what got "pushed out" back into the radiator, and it was full again. To start things off, make 110% sure your cooling system is NOT CLOGGED UP. I am talking about the radiator/heater core, since if those are semi-plugged, this will just make things worse. If in doubt, check/replace if you can. Secondly, make sure that the inside of the cooling system is as clean as humanly possible, and that includes antifreeze too. Make sure to dispose of any antifreeze-contaminated liquid per your local regulations. I used some generic radiator flush to get things clean. Remember, the cleaner it is, the better chance it has of sticking. One area where I would deviate from the directions is that, unless you KNOW the heater core is the source of the leak, I would just get some hose from the auto-parts store and bypass it entirely to reduce the risk of it getting plugged up. Especially wise if you are unsure about the state of your heater core in terms of being plugged up or not. I ended up doing the mix with water, 30-minute idle, per the directions, but I opted to keep it in for what was going to be 500 miles of driving, but ended up being closer to 1,000, as I am in the process of moving, and didn't have the luxury of draining the cooling system, letting it dry 24+ hours, etc. Not saying that this was the right thing to do or not, but it ended up working for me. I also let the system dry closer to 36 hours since I was doing a scheduled timing belt/water pump replacement on my car, and was waiting on some last-minute parts to come in for the repair. I also blew some air into the upper radiator hose just to make sure I got as much water as humanly possible out of the block, to give this the best chance at drying. I have heard of people going so far as to blow air through the block with a hair dryer on the "cool" setting, probably overkill, but hey, can't hurt, right? I will say it was interesting when I drained the system to see actual "flakes" of the silicate that had formed, but were still very soft. Once they dried out, they would literally stick to just about anything. So if you get it on paint/plastic, RINSE IT OFF RIGHT AWAY or that stuff will stick/stain it! Good for sealing openings, not so good for your paint job. Also, it will dry the crap out of your skin, so wear gloves if you can. SO, overall thoughts. It takes a bit of effort to prep the car, and for some people, it may just be easier to pop the hood and "do it right," but for others, this may be fine as a temporary stopgap measure. I have put almost 1,000 miles on the car and have not seen the issue come back, which is encouraging to see. And I should add that's hauling at least 300+ pounds of stuff in my car too, including going up the infamous Conejo Grade, which is 4 miles of a 7% grade!

## Features

- Causes serious eye irritation.
- Causes skin irritation.
- Harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects.
- Uses nanotechnology
- Fills cracks and crevices
- Makes a stronger bond
- Permanently hardens to surface area
- Applications include automobiles, buses and trucks

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B000M8NZ70 |
| Brand | K & W |
| Customer Reviews | 3.9 3.9 out of 5 stars (330) |
| Date First Available | 1 Mar. 2006 |
| Item Weight | 1.13 kg |
| Item model number | 401232 |
| Manufacturer | CRC |
| Manufacturer part number | 401232 |
| Product Dimensions | 6.35 x 10.16 x 22.86 cm; 1.13 kg |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** K & W
- **Item weight:** 2.5 Pounds
- **Liquid volume:** 32 Fluid Ounces
- **Material:** Nanotechnology-based
- **Package information:** Bottle

## Images

![CRC 401232 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/511cpl-UORL.jpg)
![CRC 401232 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81xq1CS6NYL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: how do I add it? just pour into antifreeze?**
A: This product has to be used without antifreeze.  You have to drain out your cooling system. This company does make a product that you can mix with antifreeze though.

**Q: Where is their warranty claim form. I cant seem to find it anywhere?**
A: I don’t think there’s really much of a warranty claim just may be a refund if you even want to try to attack that

**Q: what does it do to a good radiator . does it build up inside the tubes?**
A: I will get a thing layer, but won’t block the radiator tubes. But actually does work A+

**Q: how does this not seal the thermostat?**
A: Directions say to take thermostat out.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐ Review
*by A***R on 17 October 2016*

This product did not work and I see this as a waste of Money, will never recommend this any one in the future

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by C***N on 13 November 2025*

I will preface this by saying that what worked for me isn't a guarantee that it will work for you. But, depending on how bad your leak issue is, it's worth a try if money is tight. My '96 Civic DX had an intermittent issue where, on long drives, the coolant would go from the radiator to the overflow bottle, but not back to the bottle when it cooled down. There were bubbles in the coolant when at idle; it looked like a cherry soda or champagne, very small, but bubbles nonetheless. I don't have access to a block tester, but I figured that was all the proof I needed that something was up. Do note, the car was NOT burning coolant, and I could effectively pour what got "pushed out" back into the radiator, and it was full again. To start things off, make 110% sure your cooling system is NOT CLOGGED UP. I am talking about the radiator/heater core, since if those are semi-plugged, this will just make things worse. If in doubt, check/replace if you can. Secondly, make sure that the inside of the cooling system is as clean as humanly possible, and that includes antifreeze too. Make sure to dispose of any antifreeze-contaminated liquid per your local regulations. I used some generic radiator flush to get things clean. Remember, the cleaner it is, the better chance it has of sticking. One area where I would deviate from the directions is that, unless you KNOW the heater core is the source of the leak, I would just get some hose from the auto-parts store and bypass it entirely to reduce the risk of it getting plugged up. Especially wise if you are unsure about the state of your heater core in terms of being plugged up or not. I ended up doing the mix with water, 30-minute idle, per the directions, but I opted to keep it in for what was going to be 500 miles of driving, but ended up being closer to 1,000, as I am in the process of moving, and didn't have the luxury of draining the cooling system, letting it dry 24+ hours, etc. Not saying that this was the right thing to do or not, but it ended up working for me. I also let the system dry closer to 36 hours since I was doing a scheduled timing belt/water pump replacement on my car, and was waiting on some last-minute parts to come in for the repair. I also blew some air into the upper radiator hose just to make sure I got as much water as humanly possible out of the block, to give this the best chance at drying. I have heard of people going so far as to blow air through the block with a hair dryer on the "cool" setting, probably overkill, but hey, can't hurt, right? I will say it was interesting when I drained the system to see actual "flakes" of the silicate that had formed, but were still very soft. Once they dried out, they would literally stick to just about anything. So if you get it on paint/plastic, RINSE IT OFF RIGHT AWAY or that stuff will stick/stain it! Good for sealing openings, not so good for your paint job. Also, it will dry the crap out of your skin, so wear gloves if you can. SO, overall thoughts. It takes a bit of effort to prep the car, and for some people, it may just be easier to pop the hood and "do it right," but for others, this may be fine as a temporary stopgap measure. I have put almost 1,000 miles on the car and have not seen the issue come back, which is encouraging to see. And I should add that's hauling at least 300+ pounds of stuff in my car too, including going up the infamous Conejo Grade, which is 4 miles of a 7% grade!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by C***K on 22 June 2020*

I used this in my boat engine. It a 1987 OMC 4.3l. I was getting major water in my oil. I was told by multiple people I would need a new engine or at least a new to me. Well me, not wanting to drop 3-5 grand, I decided to give this a try. It F$&%ing worked perfectly . People who have give this product a crappy review either didn't do the right process or the damage was too great. Bottom line get this stuff it truly is miracle juice for your engine

## Frequently Bought Together

- K&W 401232 Permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair with Nanotechnology - 32 Fl Oz
- K&W 401224 FiberLock Head Gasket & Block Repair - 32 Fl Oz
- CRC K&W 401016 Block Seal Permanent Metallic™ Block & Radiator Seal - 16 Oz

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---

*Product available on Desertcart Kenya*
*Store origin: KE*
*Last updated: 2026-02-20*