---
product_id: 186738357
title: "Holmer Guitar Fret Wires 2.7mm 22 Frets Stainless Steel Fretwire Compatible with Fender Electric Guitar Bass Guitar Fingerboard Replacement Chrome."
brand: "holmer"
price: "KSh5821"
currency: KES
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 3
category: "Holmer"
url: https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/186738357-holmer-guitar-fret-wires-2-7mm-22-frets-stainless-steel
store_origin: KE
region: Kenya
---

# Bright chrome finish, smooth surface 22 pre-radiused frets for Fender/Gibson fit 250HV hardness stainless steel Holmer Guitar Fret Wires 2.7mm 22 Frets Stainless Steel Fretwire Compatible with Fender Electric Guitar Bass Guitar Fingerboard Replacement Chrome.

**Brand:** holmer
**Price:** KSh5821
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🎸 Upgrade Your Tone & Style with Pro-Grade Stainless Steel Frets!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Holmer Guitar Fret Wires 2.7mm 22 Frets Stainless Steel Fretwire Compatible with Fender Electric Guitar Bass Guitar Fingerboard Replacement Chrome. by holmer
- **How much does it cost?** KSh5821 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.co.ke](https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/186738357-holmer-guitar-fret-wires-2-7mm-22-frets-stainless-steel)

## Best For

- holmer enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted holmer brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Sleek Chrome Finish:** Adds a professional shine and enhances tonal brightness for that stage-ready look.
- • **Versatile Compatibility:** Ideal for electric, acoustic, and bass guitars—upgrade any build or repair with confidence.
- • **Pro-Level Installation Ease:** Pre-radiused lengths and exact sizing minimize fretwork hassle, saving you time and frustration.
- • **Perfect 12'' Radius Pre-Cut Set:** Ready-to-install 22-fret set tailored for iconic Fender and Gibson fingerboards.
- • **Precision Engineered 250HV Stainless Steel:** Ultra-durable frets that stand the test of time and intense play.

## Overview

Holmer Guitar Fret Wires are a premium set of 22 stainless steel frets with 250HV hardness, designed for electric, acoustic, and bass guitars. Featuring a precise 12'' radius and a bright chrome finish, these pre-cut frets fit popular Fender and Gibson fingerboards perfectly. Engineered for durability and smooth playability, they are ideal for both new builds and professional repairs, delivering enhanced tone and long-lasting performance.

## Description

PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONMade by the best luthier tools maker from Korea DHP, which the factory supply fret wires for many famous Guitar companys like Fender, Gibson and so on.These are high quality stainless chrome frets, which is designed to fit electric guitars, acoustic guitars or bass guitars. Each packaged in 22 pieces with 250hv hardness. SIZE SPECIFICATIONS A: Crown Width: 2.7mm(0.106 inch) B: Crown Height: 1.4mm (0.055 inch) C: Fret Height: 3.2mm(0.126 inch) D: Tang Height: 1.8mm(0.071 inch) E: Tang Width: 0.6mm(0.024 inch) F: Stud Width: 0.95mm(0.037 inch) G: Stud Space: 2.5mm(0.098 inch) 100% Brand new,never used. New fret wires are great helpful to improve the sound quality.

Review: Very Hard Frets. Damages some tools. High quality. Radius is spot on. - These frets were perfect for my Chibson. A picture says a thousand words, so these pics tell you all you need to know. VERY HARD FRETS. Those fret end nippers in the picture are StewMac nippers and are supposed to handle Stainless Steel Frets. They got tore up. The pic was after the very first fret. RADIUS SPOT ON. Don't expect the radius of the frets to stay good if the fingerboard isn't in good order. This guitar was refretted because the original frets couldn't be leveled with a severe warp in the fingerboard. Look at the pic down the neck after the install. You can see the bridge at the end. This is perfectly the same radius down to the bridge. NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE? Me neither. The seller, L & Y is an excellent seller. If you're looking at these frets wanting to install them, and you don't have the tools, L & Y has a little kit with a Hammer, Hook Knife, Nippers, Tape, and a file. I used that kit. However, I wouldn't try the nippers to pull the frets. L & Y didn't call them fret pullers, they called it a String Cutter. Tools I used: 1. L & Y tool kit. Fret hammer to hammer in the frets. Hook knife to clean the fret slots. Tape, multiple layers to protect parts of the guitar. The file to take care of sharp edges(has a smooth round end to keep you from filing on your fingerboard by mistake). Nippers to cut strings. 2. Philadelphia Luthier's 3 peaks fret puller. It is ridiculously easy to pull frets with that tool. I don't think a better puller exists. Warming the frets rubbing a hot soldering iron on them while using your finger to watch the heat, makes it super easy. I had zero chip out, and no struggles at all. 3. Check the straightness and radius of your neck. You need a radius gauge and a straight edge. Then check the slot depth to make sure there's room. If your neck is messed up you need tool number 4. 4. Aluminum Radius Sanding beam. Buy the big long one straight from Philadelphia Luthier. Get some 80 grit, 220, and 400 from them as well. You can get it in 5 feet lengths. The 400 will work great to level the frets if you wish to do so. 5. Fret rocker to verify you have seated the frets all the way. You may have to hammer the frets down more. A couple of thousandths of an inch is hard to see. The fret rocker will identify which frets need more smacking. 6. something to support the neck while you smack it. Look at the pick to see what I used. 7. A bevel file. Timiy Hard Maple Guitar Fret Beveling File for Fret End Dressing. It was only $14 and a must have for this. Take your time with it, it will be rough until all the frets are about the same length. Be careful of your headstock and guitar body, you will damage them if not very careful. Also, be VERY careful not to loose control of the file, have it hop up, and drag across your freshly installed frets. Take it really easy. If you don't want to destroy end nippers, you can file them all the way down with this tool, but you're going to need this tool even if you have the nippers. It does an excellent job of getting the frets right flush with the neck/binding. 8. If you chose to level your frets, you need a crowning file, and something to polish the frets with. I have no good suggestions on a crowning file, other than you need to have diamond. I'm still working on this one. And then something to polish the frets with like Zona 3M polishing paper, or whatever. Hope this helps somebody.
Review: Pretty good wth a couple of caveats - First the good. The radius is perfect, there was no damage to any of the frets, and they are (almost) the right length. Now the bad. I only received 23 frets. I am missing the shortest fret. Now the (possibly) ugly. I've been building guitars for many years and I have always run the tang out to the edge of the fingerboard on unbound fingerboards. I am making a standard Strat style neck and, since the tang on these frets has already been cut at the ends, the tang does not go to the edge of the fingerboard (yes, I have them in the right order). I did a bit of searching around on various sites on the web and found that some people are now nipping the tang on unbound fingerboards and filling the slot with a combination of glue and sawdust (in my case rosewood). This makes for a much better looking neck. I'm going to give that a try on this neck and see how it comes out. So, it may not be so ugly. Update: I've upped the rating to 4 stars from 3. It would be 5 stars but I only received 23 instead of 24. I was incorrect, the missing one was the largest not the smallest. Since I was building a standard 22 fret Strat neck this was a non-issue for me. The frets installed easily and, dare I say it, perfectly. After pressing in the frets I was left with approximately 1mm of overhang. The undercut of the tang was also approximately 1mm in from the edge of the unbound fingerboard. After filing back the overhang and filling the open end of the fret slots with dark glue and rosewood dust the neck looks better than any unbound board I've done (and also any I've bought). Bottom line, possibly some QC issues but a great product at a great price. Update 2: I've now purchased 5 sets of these and only the first one was missing one (I'm giving it 5 stars because that was the only problem I've ever had with them). In addition, I recently had a question about the composition of the stainless steel and asked the company for some clarification. They responded in less than 24 hours with the complete list of metals and their amounts. Really quick response and very informative. I only make 3 or 4 necks a year so, even though it would be cheaper to buy in bulk and do my own bending and cutting, I'll continue to buy these. I always buy the sets of 24 because I don't always do standard necks. I'm doing a copy of a Martin acoustic neck for a Telecaster so I dropped the shorter frets to compensate for the wider (44mm) nut.

## Features

- High strength and durable stainless steel fret wires, 22 frets, the most popular size for fender or gibson electric guitar, acoustic guitar or bass guitar.
- Hardness: 250HV, Beautiful chrome color, Bright tone, Delicate and smooth surface, Great for new guitar building or guitar repair work!
- Pre-cutted in 22 pieces quantities, comes in pre-radiused these lengths for easy of install, Radius is 12''.
- Fit in a minimum 2.7mm deep slot, 6mm cutting, these range in size from 43.8mm (shortest) to 57.8mm (longest).
- Size Specs: A: Crown Width: 2.7mm(0.106 inch); B: Crown Height: 1.4mm (0.055 inch); C: Fret Height: 3.2mm(0.126 inch); D: Tang Height: 1.8mm(0.071 inch); E: Tang Width: 0.6mm(0.024 inch); F: Stud Width: 0.95mm(0.037 inch); G: Stud Space: 2.5mm(0.098 inch);

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B07ZK8P853 |
| Back Material | Alder Wood |
| Best Sellers Rank | #8,843 in Musical Instruments ( See Top 100 in Musical Instruments ) #3 in Electric Guitar Frets #262 in Bass Guitar Parts |
| Body Material | Metal |
| Color Name | Chrome |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars (416) |
| Date First Available | October 24, 2019 |
| Fretboard Material | Rosewood, Ebony, Maple |
| Guitar Bridge System | Tremolo |
| Guitar Pickup Configuration | combination |
| Item Weight | 1.3 ounces |
| Item model number | DHP-27HS-22 |
| Material Type | Stainless Steel |
| Neck Material Type | alder |
| Number of Strings | 6 |
| Package Dimensions | 5 x 4 x 0.5 inches |
| Scale Length | 12 |
| Size | 2.7mm-22 frets |
| String Material | Stainless Steel |
| Top Material | Alder Wood |

## Product Details

- **Back Material Type:** Alder Wood
- **Body Material:** Metal
- **Brand:** Holmer
- **Color:** Chrome
- **Fretboard Material Type:** Rosewood, Ebony, Maple
- **Guitar Pickup Configuration:** combination
- **Hand Orientation:** Ambidextrous
- **Neck Material Type:** alder
- **String Material Type:** Stainless Steel
- **Top Material Type:** Alder Wood

## Images

![Holmer Guitar Fret Wires 2.7mm 22 Frets Stainless Steel Fretwire Compatible with Fender Electric Guitar Bass Guitar Fingerboard Replacement Chrome. - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/711HLSjlzNL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Refretting 89 squire bullet, will 12” radius work, also 2.7 or 2.9 mm?**
A: Apparently the 1989 Squire had a 12" fingerboard radius so these will work.  Personally I like the radius of the frets to be smaller than the radius I'm using so that the ends stay down when you press them in but this may just be voodoo on my part.  I've used both the 2.9 and the 2.7 and I prefer the 2.7.  2.9 is a more modern jumbo fret and can actually be used for bass.  Remember, these things are hard!  I can recommend the StewMac Z-file to crown them (the little one, not the one with the handle).

**Q: Do you have them with 14" radius?**
A: We don't have 14" radius at present

**Q: Can you cut these if they’re too long? Using for a cigar box guitar build.**
A: These have been pre cutted before shipped, and they are fullfilled by Amazon, it they are too long, you can cut it use frets cutter.

**Q: is this really stainless steel frets?**
A: Yes, really stainless steel frets

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very Hard Frets. Damages some tools. High quality. Radius is spot on.
*by A***R on August 23, 2020*

These frets were perfect for my Chibson. A picture says a thousand words, so these pics tell you all you need to know. VERY HARD FRETS. Those fret end nippers in the picture are StewMac nippers and are supposed to handle Stainless Steel Frets. They got tore up. The pic was after the very first fret. RADIUS SPOT ON. Don't expect the radius of the frets to stay good if the fingerboard isn't in good order. This guitar was refretted because the original frets couldn't be leveled with a severe warp in the fingerboard. Look at the pic down the neck after the install. You can see the bridge at the end. This is perfectly the same radius down to the bridge. NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE? Me neither. The seller, L & Y is an excellent seller. If you're looking at these frets wanting to install them, and you don't have the tools, L & Y has a little kit with a Hammer, Hook Knife, Nippers, Tape, and a file. I used that kit. However, I wouldn't try the nippers to pull the frets. L & Y didn't call them fret pullers, they called it a String Cutter. Tools I used: 1. L & Y tool kit. Fret hammer to hammer in the frets. Hook knife to clean the fret slots. Tape, multiple layers to protect parts of the guitar. The file to take care of sharp edges(has a smooth round end to keep you from filing on your fingerboard by mistake). Nippers to cut strings. 2. Philadelphia Luthier's 3 peaks fret puller. It is ridiculously easy to pull frets with that tool. I don't think a better puller exists. Warming the frets rubbing a hot soldering iron on them while using your finger to watch the heat, makes it super easy. I had zero chip out, and no struggles at all. 3. Check the straightness and radius of your neck. You need a radius gauge and a straight edge. Then check the slot depth to make sure there's room. If your neck is messed up you need tool number 4. 4. Aluminum Radius Sanding beam. Buy the big long one straight from Philadelphia Luthier. Get some 80 grit, 220, and 400 from them as well. You can get it in 5 feet lengths. The 400 will work great to level the frets if you wish to do so. 5. Fret rocker to verify you have seated the frets all the way. You may have to hammer the frets down more. A couple of thousandths of an inch is hard to see. The fret rocker will identify which frets need more smacking. 6. something to support the neck while you smack it. Look at the pick to see what I used. 7. A bevel file. Timiy Hard Maple Guitar Fret Beveling File for Fret End Dressing. It was only $14 and a must have for this. Take your time with it, it will be rough until all the frets are about the same length. Be careful of your headstock and guitar body, you will damage them if not very careful. Also, be VERY careful not to loose control of the file, have it hop up, and drag across your freshly installed frets. Take it really easy. If you don't want to destroy end nippers, you can file them all the way down with this tool, but you're going to need this tool even if you have the nippers. It does an excellent job of getting the frets right flush with the neck/binding. 8. If you chose to level your frets, you need a crowning file, and something to polish the frets with. I have no good suggestions on a crowning file, other than you need to have diamond. I'm still working on this one. And then something to polish the frets with like Zona 3M polishing paper, or whatever. Hope this helps somebody.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Pretty good wth a couple of caveats
*by E***N on May 10, 2021*

First the good. The radius is perfect, there was no damage to any of the frets, and they are (almost) the right length. Now the bad. I only received 23 frets. I am missing the shortest fret. Now the (possibly) ugly. I've been building guitars for many years and I have always run the tang out to the edge of the fingerboard on unbound fingerboards. I am making a standard Strat style neck and, since the tang on these frets has already been cut at the ends, the tang does not go to the edge of the fingerboard (yes, I have them in the right order). I did a bit of searching around on various sites on the web and found that some people are now nipping the tang on unbound fingerboards and filling the slot with a combination of glue and sawdust (in my case rosewood). This makes for a much better looking neck. I'm going to give that a try on this neck and see how it comes out. So, it may not be so ugly. Update: I've upped the rating to 4 stars from 3. It would be 5 stars but I only received 23 instead of 24. I was incorrect, the missing one was the largest not the smallest. Since I was building a standard 22 fret Strat neck this was a non-issue for me. The frets installed easily and, dare I say it, perfectly. After pressing in the frets I was left with approximately 1mm of overhang. The undercut of the tang was also approximately 1mm in from the edge of the unbound fingerboard. After filing back the overhang and filling the open end of the fret slots with dark glue and rosewood dust the neck looks better than any unbound board I've done (and also any I've bought). Bottom line, possibly some QC issues but a great product at a great price. Update 2: I've now purchased 5 sets of these and only the first one was missing one (I'm giving it 5 stars because that was the only problem I've ever had with them). In addition, I recently had a question about the composition of the stainless steel and asked the company for some clarification. They responded in less than 24 hours with the complete list of metals and their amounts. Really quick response and very informative. I only make 3 or 4 necks a year so, even though it would be cheaper to buy in bulk and do my own bending and cutting, I'll continue to buy these. I always buy the sets of 24 because I don't always do standard necks. I'm doing a copy of a Martin acoustic neck for a Telecaster so I dropped the shorter frets to compensate for the wider (44mm) nut.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Some wide or shorter height I wish I would have ordered 2 so I could match them more precisely
*by J***T on July 17, 2024*

I got the shipment quickly and they are stainless steel frets as advertised. I am demoting 1 star though for the different basic shapes. There were a few that were wider or taller and consistency is not accurate. I am going to be filing them awhile. I know that some are thinking it is must my fret board not being leveled no, that is not the case they were off visually before being mounted. I sorted them the best I could and then put them on the most logical way to compensate for the differences. Most of them were alike enough but at least 3-4 were fat and low. Due to them being stainless steel it is also longer and harder to correct this with my files. The other frets will need filed down to compensate the difference. This is not ideal if I bought this set to gain height only to have to file them to a normal distance. The tangs did not hold very well at all either. I had a brand new fret board and slots were proper size. Otherwise yes they are good quality stainless steel pre-cut frets. I did have to nip the ends off since no 2 guitars seem to have the same size fret board but I assumed this going in. Be aware these stainless steel frets take A LOT more work to get flat on the board you will need a fret vice and a fret hammer as well and level and crown are way harder as well. Super harder!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Holmer Guitar Fret Wires 2.7mm 22 Frets Stainless Steel Fretwire Compatible with Fender Gibson Electric or Acoustic Guitar Fingerboard Replacement. Chrome
- Starbond Super Fast Thin, Premium Instant CA (Cyanoacrylate Adhesive) Super Glue Plus Extra Cap and Microtips, (for Woodturning, Pen Turning, Hobby, Stabilizing, Finish, Inlay) (2 Ounce)
- Holmer Guitar Fret Hammer Guitar Anatomy Luthier Tools Fretting Hammer with Double Head for Electric Acoustic Bass Guitar or Mandolin, Banjo and Ukulele

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*Product available on Desertcart Kenya*
*Store origin: KE*
*Last updated: 2026-02-21*